My G35 starts up and then shuts down a few seconds later. The computer does not generate ANY CODE that can guide us for the repair. The RMP at startup is normal, go under 800, then gradually declines to zero resulting in engine failure.

We changed one of the two CAM SENSOR with the new part from the manufacturer (23731MA).
We have fuel pressure and flow.
We cleaned the PCV valve.
We can restart the car at will, no problem, but then it still shuts down.

But we don't have an error CODE!

Any ideas? Thanks !

 

Just to verify, you bought that sensor from a NISSAN/INFINITI DEALERSHIP right? Not on the internet yes?

Then add 1 gallon of fresh gas to the tank, don't ever trust the gas gauge because it's an incredibly common failure point on this platform. It will regularly show 1/2 tank when it's actually completely empty.

How did you test for fuel pressure? There is no fuel port on these cars so you have to install a fuel rail sandwich adapter. If you don't already have one installed get one like this item from Z1. Just because you have initial pressure doesn't mean the pump is still running once the engine catches.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html

Next I would do is pull and inspect the spark plugs. Pay attention to any oil in the spark plug well tubes.

Then check for vacuum leaks.

I'm betting either you're out of gas or the pump isn't continuing to pump once the engine is running. Troubleshoot before throwing parts at the car.

 

Hello cleric670, thanks you for your time.

Yes, we purchased the part directly in person from the dealer.

We have already filled the tank with new gas, in case the gas gauge is defective. It's not.

We are able, if we press the gas pedal, to keep the vehicle in a high RPM without stalling as much as we want, which leads us to believe that the gas pump is working well. It is when we don't touch anything that the engine stalls. Do you really think the gas pump could be faulty in this situation?

Our next items to check are the spark plugs, the vaccum leak, and the trottle body, cleaning the MAF sensor...

 

No the pump doesn't sound like the issue if you can keep the engine running.

Be careful with the throttle body, you do NOT want to work the butterfly by hand. Best way to clean it is to remove it, plug it back in, have someone else turn the ignition to ON (engine not running) and stand on the gas pedal to open the butterfly while a second person then cleans it with TB cleaner and a toothbrush.

Normally the idle will hang at about 1500rpm or so for 15 seconds while the engine is warming up. Does yours ALWAYS die after 5 seconds even when cold?

When you start the engine, if you stomp the throttle wide open while it's running does it immediately bog and die? If so that's likely a massive vacuum leak.

Check the intake pipe for cracks, the PCV hose from the intake pipe to valve cover directly below the throttle body, the hose connecting the two valve covers at the front of the engine, the PCV valve should rattle (it screws into the other valve cover) and the hose from the PCV valve to the intake plenum. Also the brake booster line from the intake plenum to the battery box, then the booster to it's hard line right at the brake booster.

 

The car does the correct 15 seconds at cold Idle, then gradually chokes afterwards and stalls.

If we restart the car in series, the delay with the stalling becomes shorter and shorter.

We will validate the other leads you give us tomorrow. Thank you very much!

 

Ok it may be the idle air calibration is bad. If you can get the car up to operating temp then you can do the idle air recalibration steps listed in the FSM section EC - Engine Controls under "basic service procedures".

There is no idle air control valve, it's a computer algorithm that you can recalibrate, follow the steps in the FSM EXACTLY and use a timer to get the second counts perfect.

Alternately if you have a bluetooth OBD2 adapter (the BAFX one on Amazon works great) you can use the Android app "Nissan Datascan 2" and just press a button to recalibrate.

https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals

 

Hello Cleric670!

Thanks for your valuable advice: this morning we changed all the spark plugs and the air filter, we carefully cleaned the Throttle Body with the toothbrush and cleaner as you indicated, we reassembled everything and the problem had stopped.
We were able later to make the "check engine soon" disappear by resetting the ECU, then we took care to complete the Trottle Valve Closed position learning as you indicated.
The car works as before!
We are very grateful for your advice.
Thank you so much, really!
Have a nice weekend!

 

Awesome glad you got it all sorted out.

Did you happen to check which DTC code it was throwing?

 

Hello,

Our OBD2 was lent to us this week by a friend.
It didn't read any problematic code, it indicated P0000, even with the "Check engine soon" light. You will understand how much this situation bothered us.
We will receive an OBD2 at home later this week. We will check it again if needed.

Thanks again for everything!

 

The OBD2 scanner you used did not have protocol ISO 9141-2 which is the specific "language" needed to properly read codes on this car.

I have had excellent luck using the BAFX bluetooth OBD2 adapter and the android app Torque Pro. The adapter is $25, the android app is like $10. It works excellent on this platform for reading engine codes and also displays realtime data AND has a data logging feature.

It does not read transmission, abs, srs, etc codes. Just engine codes.

 

I've been having the same stall situation happening with my car starts up everytime no hesitation with starting but a couple seconds and the rims drops down to its death. Now i removed alot of **** and install new parts and i followed the reverse of changing the cam and crank sensor back to the oem no difference changed spark and ignition coils nothing im thinking about checking the injectors once more but tomorrow im going to try to removed the plenum see if I see gas or oil buildup from possible vaccime leak check the oil pickup and check all the harness wiring then when I put everything back together with battery disconnected the whole time this time cus my battery just died soo I'm charging it up im going to attempt all the relearn but how did you get the car to operating temp to do everything? Im going to attempt to use NDS 2 to reset but then ill do the procedures too if that doesn't work. Mine sounds like a serious miss from anything below like 2500 3k rpm then after that car sounds ****ing perfect im scraping my brain over this and I'm hoping I resolve my problem but ive only had advice from one other person and I am thankful for your advice Cleric. Please chime into my thread too lets figure this out soo my project can be rolling again 😭!!!