G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Coupe

p1283 code wont go away

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Old 05-05-2018, 04:15 PM
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p1283 code wont go away

i have a p1283 code that won't go away. I replaced the o2 sensors and there doesn't seem to be any wiring issues either and its still coming back. any idea on what it is?
 
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Old 05-05-2018, 06:28 PM
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That code doesn't mean anything is wrong with the sensor, it means that bank2 is running lean.

You get that code because the sensor IS working and telling you there is a problem, troubleshoot the pressure damper on that rail, injectors, vacuum leaks, etc.
 
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:20 AM
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I had p1273 for a long while for the passenger side, I changed the fuel pump, injectors, plugs, intake manifold gasket, maf sensor, put the stock air cleaner back on and changed the o2 sensors, none of that fixed it. In my case it turned out to be the fuel damper, once I changed it the code never came back
 
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jkilla71 View Post
I had p1273 for a long while for the passenger side, I changed the fuel pump, injectors, plugs, intake manifold gasket, maf sensor, put the stock air cleaner back on and changed the o2 sensors, none of that fixed it. In my case it turned out to be the fuel damper, once I changed it the code never came back
You most likely would have saved money by:

1- Purchasing the FSM manual for your vehicle and following the logical troubleshooting for that code or

2- spending the $150 diagnostic fee at the dealer?

Glad you finally found the problem without having to replace every part on your vehicle.

Telcoman
 
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Old 05-27-2018, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by telcoman View Post
You most likely would have saved money by:

1- Purchasing the FSM manual for your vehicle and following the logical troubleshooting for that code or

2- spending the $150 diagnostic fee at the dealer?

Glad you finally found the problem without having to replace every part on your vehicle.

Telcoman
I actually followed the Nissan technical bulletin but after I tired everything on it. I found the fuel damper solution on this forum. And parts are very cheap for this car on ebay and my time and labor is free.
 
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by telcoman View Post
You most likely would have saved money by:
1- Purchasing the FSM manual for your vehicle and following the logical troubleshooting for that code or
2- spending the $150 diagnostic fee at the dealer?
Glad you finally found the problem without having to replace every part on your vehicle.
Telcoman
There are those occasions when #2 is your best option once you get tired of chasing your tail, wasting $$ on parts you don't need!

Gary
 
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Old 05-27-2018, 08:59 PM
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I agree with all this but I'm notorious for doing complete systems replacement on vehicles with 100k or more on them so....

 
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:00 PM
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Obviously really late response, but I literally just FINALLY (after 2 years and thousands on parts and having Infiniti + various other mechanics try to find out the issue). I’ve been reading the threads on since I got my 04 G sedan 2 1/2 years ago with 170k, now it has 212k ... anyway I randomly found an article that said to reset the ECU (I’ve done this only the battery way and the pedal dance) I was totally unaware the ECU has two fuses, take both of them out for 10 min and put them back in and ECU is completely reset. I thought I’d give it a shot instead of paying Infiniti $700 to fix it... I took both fuses out, BOTH FUSES WERE SHOT!! I swapped them out and problem solved.. been over 100miles and still no CEL, and not to mention my MPG has literally doubled. I was just about to drive my G off a cliff too!
 
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Old 05-01-2019, 10:32 PM
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That's wierd, do you happen to have the fuse #'s or a picture of where you removed them from?
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 12:56 PM
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th
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:00 PM
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Ok so it looks like the contact pins are getting corroded. To prevent this in the future I would remove those new fuses, hit them lightly with a wire brush until the pins are shiny, then apply a very light coat of electrical anti-oxidation grease such as ILSCO DE-OX. That will prevent any future oxidation.

I can definitely see corrosion causing a major problem since everything in these electrical systems are SOOOO sensitive.
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:01 PM
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This is what my ECU fuse looked like.Nothing like yours however a bit concerning.
Resistance ended up being very small and there was continuity so I left it.

The spade is supposed to bite into the metal upon insertion as you can see however the color does worry me even though the rest of the test's pass.
There is a possibility that by removing it you reset the ECU and this did it though your picture looks worse than my fuse.

I did replace the AF sensor with a new Bosch one and the code has not come back however the misfire is still there and the bank is ready lean still.
According to Torque 20-25% + in comparison to -2/+2 on bank 2.
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:19 PM
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I'd start investigating for a leaking injector, a bad fuel damper, or an exhaust leak on that side.
 
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Old 05-02-2019, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
I'd start investigating for a leaking injector, a bad fuel damper, or an exhaust leak on that side.
That is the next thing I'm trying, I have I rail with all six of them that I will be testing and will eventually swap those.

Zero exhaust leaks

Two noticeable points that I noticed was:

Hard start at certain times

While holding 1100rpms and letting go of the gas the car would accelerate on it's own for a blip then let go.
 
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