Hello G35Driver, I've had my 06 coupe for nearly three months now. Just recently replaced my timing chain primary tensioner because there would be a rattling noise at startup. Now with the new tensioner, it rattles all the time while driving, and it's more audible at times than usual. I assume I probably have to do the entire timing job at this point. Just a few questions, how do I know if the guide by the tensioner is broken? Also, when installing the tensioner, the chain did get tight suddenly and then loosen after continuing to turn the crankshaft bolt, does this mean I jumped a tooth? Finally, can anyone link me to a DIY to the entire job while the engine is still in the car? I can't find any videos where the engine is still inside and I do not have the tools to remove the engine but I definitely have the tools to do it while it's still inside the car. I truly enjoy driving and working on this car and wouldn't want to sell it over something like a timing failure that's common in these 3.5 engines. Lastly, this is my first time doing a project this big, especially timing-related, so any tips would be appreciated. I don't feel like paying a mechanic 3k to do it for me. The last owner did that and it's been less than 5k miles and there are already problems so I guess if you want to do it right, do it yourself. Thanks.

 

Just to verify, you did pull out the retention pin on the tensioner after it was installed yes?

The OEM tensioners have this big green "push pin" looking thing so it's a good visual reminder, I've seen aftermarket ones though that had this super tiny pin that could EASILY be forgotten.

The guide you can see if you use a borescope camera to look up and down inside the timing cover with that access plate removed. It's a lot more difficult with a mirror so I strongly recommend a cheapo borescope camera, even those ones that plug into your phone work pretty darned good.

Hard to say if you jumped a tooth, normally the engine is down on power.

Are you sure you're not just low on oil? That causes a significant amount of rattle on the DE engine.

As for your main question though about a DIY, just follow the steps in the FSM it's really straightforward and yes it's easily replaced with the engine in the car, the hardest part is getting the crank pulley bolt out with the AC condenser still in the car since you can't really get an impact wrench in there and the ring gear stop for the flywheel is expensive AF.

Remove engine lower shield, drain coolant, remove radiator upper/lower hose, AT coolant lines if equipped, remove fans, remove radiator (yes radiator too, you will want the extra space). This is all that's really required to do the job if you're willing to breaker bar the crank pulley bolt off but you will NEED something to hold the engine from rotating. I'm pretty opposed to chain wrench/strap on the crank pulley, the cheapest ring gear stopper is this one.

https://www.freedomracing.com/j-4471...BoCe30QAvD_BwE

Pull off your starter and install the ring gear stopper, unfortunately it doesn't fit on the driver/left side starter unused slot so you actually have to remove the starter.

If you're ok with recovering the refrigerant from the condenser and charging the system back up later then it's a LOT easier to just pull the front fascia, the crash bar, the AC condenser, and the radiator support. Now you have a straight shot at the timing chain cover and can just put a chair right in front of the engine to do all your work very comfortably. You will need to support the hood somehow though since your hood prop will be missing, a 2x4 braced against the upper plenum will work if you haven't done a hood strut mod.

The timing chain itself is very straighforward and hard to screw up, the picture in the FSM is very detailed and there are notches that line up perfectly with every component. Modern timing chains/belts are VERY hard to screw up, just torque everything to spec.

I do recommend changing out the DE galley gasket while you have the chain off, sure it's not nearly as prone to leaking as the HR engine but it's still a wearable gasket that can fail. Replace your water pump as well since you will be right there.

 

Yes, I removed the retainer, it came with a large green pin as an OEM would. It's not low oil cause I just put a quart about 500 miles ago, my engine burns about a quart every 1500 miles and it has only been about 2000 miles since the last oil change. As for the jumped tooth, the engine feels normal and there isn't any power loss so I would assume from what you said I haven't jumped it. Now for the FSM, I have it downloaded and maybe I'm not looking at the right sections but it's mainly focused on the timing area and I can't really find a section dedicated to instructions for things to remove before removing the timing plate. By any chance, could you,link me to that section? So if the timing chains are so hard to screw up, why is that that the rattling would occur less than 5000 miles after the mechanics changed it? On the invoice, it states that they bought the entire timing kit but labor was only charged for changing the chains and nothing else. Also, should the timing guide be moving and forth? I know left to right is normal, but would back and forth indicate it's bad? I went back to Autozone to get a replacement tensioner to see if that will help but I doubt the tensioner they previously gave me is bad, my best bet is the guide. Also, I appreciate your detailed response, now I have a clear mental image of what needs to be done.

 

The guide should only have left/right play, if it's got front/back play they may not have tightened the bolt properly.

While googling for some better pictures for you I came across this site that pretty much covers everything in picture detail minus torque specs. This will give you a GREAT idea what it entails once you have peripheral stuff removed to actually access the timing chain cover.

If you have the 6MT equipped model it will be ever so slightly different because you also have exhaust cam timing, so those cam timing covers will be a little different (waffle patterned) and DON'T LET THE MAGNET FALL OUT of hte exhaust cam side or it will shatter when it hits the ground.

https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-replac...-timing-chain/

Steps are in section EM - Engine Mechanical, look down around "front timing chain case" and "timing chain" in the table of contents.