I manual swapped my g and put the rev up engine in at the same time because the previous engine was blown. I have everything connected and ready to go. I am not trying to start the car but I get a crank and no start. I don’t hear the fuel pump come on but I do hear the radiator fans turn on. The OBD2 port also doesn’t seem to work as of now. I am using the manual harness and the auto ECU for now until I get the manual one reprogrammed.

 

Solid red NATS security indicator light on the dash while cranking?

 

no it is still flashing, Some other people have said it’s not decaying my ECU because the fans come on and fuel isn’t priming.

 

Yeah that was my next suggestion, typically when the IPDM can't communicate with the ECM that's when you get the "radiator fans running high speed with ignition ON".

Need some more information about this computer combination you're using, which chassis coupe/sedan are you using for the IPDM and ECM, which chassis is the car itself?

Did you replace the engine control harness with the 6MT harness? If so the automatic tranny ECM won't communicate properly because it won't see the PNP/reverse position of the transmission due to different wiring. Therefor no fuel INJECTION and no spark, however the fuel pump should still prime for 1 second when you turn the ignition to the ON position. It's also missing communication with the TCM which might also be causing the car to miscommunicate, however I think it would just throw a U1000 code and not start.

What codes is it currently throwing?

If you have a 2003 chassis you will need the newer IPDM, I think any 2004-2006 IPDM should work though regardless of coupe/sedan or transmission but the ECM/BCM will require programming.

Obviously if you can pull an IPDM, ECM, BCM, and ignition switch with key then you have a complete set that wouldn't require any extra programming and is normally the preferred way to do a swap.

 

slightly embarrassing but I did not have the white plug with the lever on it connected properly.. after I connected it properly the car actually started on the stock ECU. It is a 2006 coupe. I am using the wiring harness from the rev up engine.

I did not know you could actually switch the BCM and all the other components with the ecu instead of getting it reprogrammed, I would much rather do that and already have all the parts so I will give that a shot. Anything I should know while switching those parts out?

 

Not really, it's pretty straightforward, the ECM and BCM and programmed together as a matched pair (NATS/IVIS security stuff), the BCM is programmed to accept a specific set of key RFID chips (embedded in the side of the key), the lock cylinder is also physically cut to accept a specific key.

If you want to keep your existing keys you can swap the RFID tags, then you're just looking at unplugging and swapping the ECM and BCM. I'll go dig up my keys and post a picture of where the chip is located, you usually need to "chip away" a little bit of plastic to get to the side of the key so you can get a flat screwdriver into the slot to pop it out.

 

You can probably get the RFID tag out without butchering your key as badly as I did. The RFID tag carrier is the part that pops out of the key, the tag itself pops out of the carrier and has the tiny words printed on it.

 

great thanks for the info, I’m gonna try to swap everything over right now. In your earlier reply you said I need to swap the IPDM too, is that correct?

 

Technically no, IPDM can stay if both vehicles were 2004-2006 coupes (or if the donor was a rev-up 350Z and the target chassis was a 2004-2006 coupe). If it was anything else I would swap it over also just for the sake of completeness.

 

I got it all swapped and running, thanks! Donor car was a 2005 6mt coupe.

 

Sweet, project complete?

 

for the most part yes, just have to figure out the ebrake swap and throw everything back together

 

I have a ton of pictures from the bottom of the vehicle for placement of everything for the parking brake (from the shifter through the tunnel ending at the differential) if you don't have the donor chassis available to look at.

 

I still have my donor vehicle, but thank you I appreciate that. Currently running into an issue though and wondered if you’d know what it may be, I went to bleed the clutch and there is 0 pressure on it when I push it it goes straight to the floor.

 

The clutch is sort of a pain to bleed, I recommend opening the bleed valve on the slave and just letting it gravity bleed out for about half a bottle of brake fluid, stand at the reservoir and keep refilling the reservoir until about half the bottle is gone. Then quickly get under the vehicle and shut it off.

THEN you can do the traditional 2 person pump/bleed, some people are good to go with just a single bleed after the initial gravity bleed.

Or use a Motive bleeder with the universal adapter cap, just place something under the reservoir like a small block of wood because the chain is way too long and won't put proper pressure on the universal cap gasket. Only pump up the motive bleeder to about 5psi not the recommended 10psi when using a universal adapter, there is no direct fit cap for our clutch fluid reservoir.

Regardless of which you do put a TON of shop towels under the clutch fluid reservoir, if you spill brake fluid it gets all into the crevices of the unibody and is basically impossible to completely clean, learned through experience...