Has anyone had their car smogged with the TS ECU in? I was reading on their website that it says "reprogrammed ECU for off-road use only" and was wondering if there is any way to tell if one even has an updated ECU? I'm finally starting the mod craze. . .

-drew

 

I couldnt comment as I havent gotten my car smogged yet and I currently have test pipes in, but what technosquare does is so extreme as to let you not pass smog especially with stock cats installed (there are 4 of them afterall). I think the reason they say for off-road use only is because they remove the top speed limiter, not sure though.

 

http://www.technosquareinc.com/g35.htm
Their website *implies* that it wouldn't yield results any different than stock.

SteveAreno or anyone else who's done the Technosquare: how is the performance gain? Is it substantial enough to be "felt?"

Thanks!

 

I noticed a gain in performance and throttle response, but I have a good amount of N/A mods. I dont know if it would be as noticeable of a difference if your car is stock or close to it. I got a before and after dyno from church automotive in torrance and gained 12hp and 15ft/lbs. Total hp and torque to date is 270hp and 252 ft/lbs on a dynapack which reads about 8-10hp high.

 

SteveArno,

I understand the cost for the ECU reflash is $600. Is it best to install all of my planned NA mods before the reflash? I don't want to go back for a reflash every year or two at 6 bones a piece.

 

Does this reflash increase the RPM at all? If so, what harm can be done to the car and will I need new cams or any safegaurd modifications?

 

To answer both your questions; Yes you should prob. wait until you are done with your mods for awhile, however, a reflash is only about $150 once you already got it done once. Yes the rpm's are raised just so you dont bump off of the stock limiter (very bad for engine). As far as how much to raise it is up to you. I will prob go back and have them take it back to 6800 just because with it set at 6800, an overrev would take you to about 7000. I overrevved once with it set at 7000 and it went to around 7300-7400 which is very bad for a number of things (valve springs and valve float being one of the bad ones). Also, from what my dyno sheets have shown even after the flash, I begin to really lose power between 6200-6500. So unless you have cams and serious headwork, raising the rev limiter is just a precaution.

 

So, would you say that the increased rev limiter is a worthy mod?

 

Only if you bounce off the rev limiter often which you shouldnt be doing anyways. I guess its up to you; its nice to have a little extra time to shift when your at the track, but still there is not much power above 6500.

 

I've bounced off a few times, but what kind of damage could come about?

 

In regards to the engine, I think the damage that can come about from hitting rev limiter is the same as damage you'd get by not hitting redline but getting CLOSE to redline. I am not sure if damage is or can be done to clutch/tranny at or near redline/limiter and cannot comment on that. If done repeatedly, hitting rev limiter can cause premature engine wear in the long run, and the same can occur anytime you drive a car at or near redline REGARDLESS of hitting the limiter. Anytime you hit near/on redline its bad b/c it causes the engine more stress as your constantly pushing the engine to its limits, which is general knowledge. However hitting 6000RPM or 65000RPM are both BAD IF the car is seeing this type of abuse repeatedly as the 500 RPM differences is so negligent once your around 6k anyways.

Just my opinion...

 

THe engine may not be making power above 6500 but the 7100 limit allows you to shift around the peak hp. Ideally, you want to be shifting around the peak. so at 7100 shifting to 2nd will drop you RPMs to < 6500 so you'll be shifting around it to mazimize power output.

 

What kind of rev limiter G has? If it is fuel cut, then you will run too lean and blow a hole in piston because of detonation-but likely hood of that is VERY low on street tuned N/A engine.Don't loose your sleep if you hit it few times.
It is very bad on turbo cars and results are very severe as holes in block.
As for "premature wear from driving close to redline"-friction and heat cause wear, which is controlled by proper cooling and lubrication. Redline is not a "limit" of engine-it is engineered point to provide reliable operation for 10 years and 150K miles(at least). Nissan engines are "overbuilt"-that's how 140 hp sr20de engines can run 250-350 boosted hp on stock internals and not desintegrate.

Did anybody think about getting shift light? Something small and subtle?

 

It is not that simple...what matters is not WHEN you shift, but where your rpm will be AFTER you shift.
To find optimal shift point you have to know your torque output in each gear and your gear ratios as well as rpm drop. After upshift you have to be in point to maximize (torque x gear ratio) for that gear.

 

Well