NEED DYNOJET HELP ~PLEASE~ Another N/A Dissapointment?
Guest
Posts: n/a
NEED DYNOJET HELP ~PLEASE~ Another N/A Dissapointment?
CALLING ALL DYNO-N/A-TS experts---PLEASE!
I finally dynoed my car today in hopes to answer some questions. I was primarily concerned with a safe AF and of course also curious about my rwhp. Unfortunately it resulted in many more questions. I am going to post the results in hopes that some of the experts on this site can shed some light on the following questions/areas of concern. Even when I go FI (after warranty expiration) I will still want/use most of my mods so Im not devasted or anything. Despite what Ive read and thought I expected (240's) I cant help but feel some dissapointment. Approx $2,200 in bolt ons for 15 hp?
Anyway heres the scoop---PLEASE dont hold back--Im looking for candid feedback and some clarity here--THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!!
Noteworthy:
*Machine was a Dynojet 428 with wideband
*My G is a 2004 5AT
*Weather conditions were 78.25 F, 29.32 in-Hg 50% Humidity
*Piaa 19 inch wheels which I think are approx 5-8 pds heavier than stock--not sure how much that hurts? The dyno guy said 2-3 hp per pound? (did not sound right to me)
*Bolt On's: 3/8 spacer,Borla TD,Kinetix cats,POP and Z tube
*This is my 1st Dyno so no base line to compare to--my searches tell me a good 04 5AT baseline is 220-224?
QUESTIONS/CONCERNS:
*What the heck is up with the squiggly lines-See image 1 (run 2). I dont know what this means and the dyno guy didnt have a straight answer? The print out left in the printer from before me did not have this up/down squiggly all around thing going on? Does the "smoothing function" in the dyno jet WINPEP software clean or hide anything? In the first image which is run 2 smoothing was not adjusted and is set at 0...In the second image displaying all three runs the smoothing function is maxed out at 5?
*Hows my AF--AM I SAFE for no long term damage? This was the main reason I dynoed!
*Would I benefit from a TS reflash?--if so whats a fair guess? Im reluctant toTune by mailorder but understand its the best option? HKS, UNICHIP and others too far and too expensive right now?
*The Dyno guy (KING of the Mustang with his 1800 Hp Mustang parked right beside me) said he would lean the mixture if he could to maximize the potential of the breathing mods? Why and do I need this? Would this cure the squiggly jumpin beans of power/torque lines?
*Are headers the missing part of the equation? I was considering them but I am very reluctant to spend another $1500 that will net 5-15 hp.
*Last Question--Why do these Mustang cobra guys start with 390 at the wheels spend 1K on a cat back and intake and end with 450 rwhp? Dont get me wrong I LOVE THE G and wouldnt drive a mustang-WHAT THE HECK? this seems crazy--or is it just me?
Frustrated
~Richard~
I finally dynoed my car today in hopes to answer some questions. I was primarily concerned with a safe AF and of course also curious about my rwhp. Unfortunately it resulted in many more questions. I am going to post the results in hopes that some of the experts on this site can shed some light on the following questions/areas of concern. Even when I go FI (after warranty expiration) I will still want/use most of my mods so Im not devasted or anything. Despite what Ive read and thought I expected (240's) I cant help but feel some dissapointment. Approx $2,200 in bolt ons for 15 hp?
Anyway heres the scoop---PLEASE dont hold back--Im looking for candid feedback and some clarity here--THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!!!
Noteworthy:
*Machine was a Dynojet 428 with wideband
*My G is a 2004 5AT
*Weather conditions were 78.25 F, 29.32 in-Hg 50% Humidity
*Piaa 19 inch wheels which I think are approx 5-8 pds heavier than stock--not sure how much that hurts? The dyno guy said 2-3 hp per pound? (did not sound right to me)
*Bolt On's: 3/8 spacer,Borla TD,Kinetix cats,POP and Z tube
*This is my 1st Dyno so no base line to compare to--my searches tell me a good 04 5AT baseline is 220-224?
QUESTIONS/CONCERNS:
*What the heck is up with the squiggly lines-See image 1 (run 2). I dont know what this means and the dyno guy didnt have a straight answer? The print out left in the printer from before me did not have this up/down squiggly all around thing going on? Does the "smoothing function" in the dyno jet WINPEP software clean or hide anything? In the first image which is run 2 smoothing was not adjusted and is set at 0...In the second image displaying all three runs the smoothing function is maxed out at 5?
*Hows my AF--AM I SAFE for no long term damage? This was the main reason I dynoed!
*Would I benefit from a TS reflash?--if so whats a fair guess? Im reluctant toTune by mailorder but understand its the best option? HKS, UNICHIP and others too far and too expensive right now?
*The Dyno guy (KING of the Mustang with his 1800 Hp Mustang parked right beside me) said he would lean the mixture if he could to maximize the potential of the breathing mods? Why and do I need this? Would this cure the squiggly jumpin beans of power/torque lines?
*Are headers the missing part of the equation? I was considering them but I am very reluctant to spend another $1500 that will net 5-15 hp.
*Last Question--Why do these Mustang cobra guys start with 390 at the wheels spend 1K on a cat back and intake and end with 450 rwhp? Dont get me wrong I LOVE THE G and wouldnt drive a mustang-WHAT THE HECK? this seems crazy--or is it just me?
Frustrated
~Richard~
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 0
From: Miami, FL
I am no dyno expert but those number are about right.
answers
1. Don't know what the squiglly lines are.
2. Don't know for N/A set up.
3. IMO I think you would benefit from a TS reflash. The best increase I have seen has been 15-20whp with the flash after all the bolt ons. I have not heard anything good about the unichip for n/a in fact do a search, I think one guy posted that it did not work. Also if you don't have a unichip tuner near you it will be useless. As far as piggy backs they don't really work for n/a from what I have seen.
4. Well if you are running rich right now, then you should lean it up, but if you are running lean then you need to rich it up a bit. Since I don't know the ideal a/f for n/a I don't know which way you should go.
5. Yeah basically. You will spend about another $800-$1600 for headers and installation depending on which ones you buy and get 5-20whp more.
6. No one know the answer to this question. The short answer is this car does not respond to bolt ons that well....maybe it is the ecu or maybe the car is already tune to its max from the factory.
7....MY opioion - Save your money and go FI if you want to see real gains. With the single turbo kits coming out for the g very soon you can gain 120-160whp for under $6000-$7000. My G dynoed at 232rwhp on a dynojet with top speed headers, test pipes, custom 3" y pipe and b-pipe, and Greddy SP2....pathetic!
answers
1. Don't know what the squiglly lines are.
2. Don't know for N/A set up.
3. IMO I think you would benefit from a TS reflash. The best increase I have seen has been 15-20whp with the flash after all the bolt ons. I have not heard anything good about the unichip for n/a in fact do a search, I think one guy posted that it did not work. Also if you don't have a unichip tuner near you it will be useless. As far as piggy backs they don't really work for n/a from what I have seen.
4. Well if you are running rich right now, then you should lean it up, but if you are running lean then you need to rich it up a bit. Since I don't know the ideal a/f for n/a I don't know which way you should go.
5. Yeah basically. You will spend about another $800-$1600 for headers and installation depending on which ones you buy and get 5-20whp more.
6. No one know the answer to this question. The short answer is this car does not respond to bolt ons that well....maybe it is the ecu or maybe the car is already tune to its max from the factory.
7....MY opioion - Save your money and go FI if you want to see real gains. With the single turbo kits coming out for the g very soon you can gain 120-160whp for under $6000-$7000. My G dynoed at 232rwhp on a dynojet with top speed headers, test pipes, custom 3" y pipe and b-pipe, and Greddy SP2....pathetic!
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,025
Likes: 3
From: Temecula - French Valley, Ca
It's hard to say. My first dyno was at STILLEN and with Injen CAI, Stillen Dual exhaust I posted 244.7 at the wheels. I've got a '03 6MT coupe and was running on the stock wheels. The last dyno I did at STILLEN last year at the G/Z day I added light weight flywheel, pullies, grounding kit from Stillen and put down 254.5 at the wheels, and I had just put on some 20" wheels too. I guess it really depends on the mods, the motor (some show better numbers for some reason) and other outside forces. We'll see what happens this year as I have installed Kinetix high flow cats and their plenum and also added Topspeed headers.
Later,
Ray
Later,
Ray
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
Answers in bold 
Originally Posted by MillersG
QUESTIONS/CONCERNS:
*What the heck is up with the squiggly lines-See image 1 (run 2). I dont know what this means and the dyno guy didnt have a straight answer? The print out left in the printer from before me did not have this up/down squiggly all around thing going on? Does the "smoothing function" in the dyno jet WINPEP software clean or hide anything? In the first image which is run 2 smoothing was not adjusted and is set at 0...In the second image displaying all three runs the smoothing function is maxed out at 5?
Ok, first you should've done your baseline on the same machine, that way you would know exactly how much gained from stock. However, never seen anything like this with those crazy jumping lines especially on Dynojet which is a good machine. Also, what I don't understand is how come your dyno guy selected MPH instead of RPM values. So I'll provide critique
on the first plot posted
BTW, have you reset your ECU at least after the last mod was installed?
Your 19" are definitely hurting your performance, they simply too heavy. Instead I would get the 18" as maximum size but as lightest as possible rims (think weight reduction) since our car is a heavy boat. What stockers did you have 17" or 18"?
*Hows my AF--AM I SAFE for no long term damage? This was the main reason I dynoed!
The best power know for NA application is low 13s AFR. Yours going a little lean down low which is ok and then too rich up top. It's not bad, but can be improved. See next.
*Would I benefit from a TS reflash?--if so whats a fair guess? Im reluctant toTune by mailorder but understand its the best option? HKS, UNICHIP and others too far and too expensive right now?
I'm pretty sure you would benefit from TS reflash and might correct your AFR. The TS flash doesn't really provides crazy gains by itself, however it make all mods work together I believe they have different stages where you as a customer needs to specify what mods you have
*The Dyno guy (KING of the Mustang with his 1800 Hp Mustang parked right beside me) said he would lean the mixture if he could to maximize the potential of the breathing mods? Why and do I need this? Would this cure the squiggly jumpin beans of power/torque lines?
Not sure again what's up with those lines. In order to lean the mixture your have to have something like pnp Apex-i SAFC II (see the above answer about low 13s AFR)
*Are headers the missing part of the equation? I was considering them but I am very reluctant to spend another $1500 that will net 5-15 hp.
What are your goals. Want to stay NA or going FI? If FI, you can only use it on supercharger application since turbo has different exhaust manifold.
*Last Question--Why do these Mustang cobra guys start with 390 at the wheels spend 1K on a cat back and intake and end with 450 rwhp? Dont get me wrong I LOVE THE G and wouldnt drive a mustang-WHAT THE HECK? this seems crazy--or is it just me?
Now here is very simple. For starters Cobra is supercharged V8 beast from the factory and btw they dyno 350-360 at the wheels stock. In order to achieve 450whp they can upgrade pulley, add exhaust, headers and get performance chip for about 1.5-2K or so.
So if you want to stay NA or add supercharger later, just add Stillen headers, TS reflash, change rims (optional) and try to dyno again on the same machine. I assume you use 93 octane?
*What the heck is up with the squiggly lines-See image 1 (run 2). I dont know what this means and the dyno guy didnt have a straight answer? The print out left in the printer from before me did not have this up/down squiggly all around thing going on? Does the "smoothing function" in the dyno jet WINPEP software clean or hide anything? In the first image which is run 2 smoothing was not adjusted and is set at 0...In the second image displaying all three runs the smoothing function is maxed out at 5?
Ok, first you should've done your baseline on the same machine, that way you would know exactly how much gained from stock. However, never seen anything like this with those crazy jumping lines especially on Dynojet which is a good machine. Also, what I don't understand is how come your dyno guy selected MPH instead of RPM values. So I'll provide critique
on the first plot postedBTW, have you reset your ECU at least after the last mod was installed?
Your 19" are definitely hurting your performance, they simply too heavy. Instead I would get the 18" as maximum size but as lightest as possible rims (think weight reduction) since our car is a heavy boat. What stockers did you have 17" or 18"?
*Hows my AF--AM I SAFE for no long term damage? This was the main reason I dynoed!
The best power know for NA application is low 13s AFR. Yours going a little lean down low which is ok and then too rich up top. It's not bad, but can be improved. See next.
*Would I benefit from a TS reflash?--if so whats a fair guess? Im reluctant toTune by mailorder but understand its the best option? HKS, UNICHIP and others too far and too expensive right now?
I'm pretty sure you would benefit from TS reflash and might correct your AFR. The TS flash doesn't really provides crazy gains by itself, however it make all mods work together
I believe they have different stages where you as a customer needs to specify what mods you have *The Dyno guy (KING of the Mustang with his 1800 Hp Mustang parked right beside me) said he would lean the mixture if he could to maximize the potential of the breathing mods? Why and do I need this? Would this cure the squiggly jumpin beans of power/torque lines?
Not sure again what's up with those lines. In order to lean the mixture your have to have something like pnp Apex-i SAFC II (see the above answer about low 13s AFR)
*Are headers the missing part of the equation? I was considering them but I am very reluctant to spend another $1500 that will net 5-15 hp.
What are your goals. Want to stay NA or going FI? If FI, you can only use it on supercharger application since turbo has different exhaust manifold.
*Last Question--Why do these Mustang cobra guys start with 390 at the wheels spend 1K on a cat back and intake and end with 450 rwhp? Dont get me wrong I LOVE THE G and wouldnt drive a mustang-WHAT THE HECK? this seems crazy--or is it just me?
Now here is very simple. For starters Cobra is supercharged V8 beast from the factory and btw they dyno 350-360 at the wheels stock. In order to achieve 450whp they can upgrade pulley, add exhaust, headers and get performance chip for about 1.5-2K or so.
So if you want to stay NA or add supercharger later, just add Stillen headers, TS reflash, change rims (optional) and try to dyno again on the same machine. I assume you use 93 octane?
Last edited by Gmaster; May 20, 2005 at 06:56 PM.
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 9
From: Toh-rensa,Ahteesia,Ahcadia,Montree Pak, Longa Beacha
Were there other cars that dynoed with you? I keep saying this, but you really can't compare your number to someone else halfway across the country with a different dyno, different weather conditions, etc. If you had a bunch of other 350z/g35s there, you can get a better idea of how you stand.
I know that the SAE correction tries to correct for this, but it might still be off. Let's say it's only off by 6 HP, that's your 240 WHP right there.
I don't have an exact answer for the squiggly lines, my guess is it's from the tires slipping momentarily on the roller.
19"s definitely hurt. Even if the rim were the same weight as the stock 18", I bet you the 19" tire weighs more. Plus, people like to go with 275s in the rear. Those tires will give good traction, but they're heavy as well. That's why I just went with 18"s from the 350z track.
Not sure about the technosquare. Seems to work better if you have a 2003. I may eventually go with them, just because I'm in the same city as them.
For reference, here were my first two dynos on dynojets:
5AT with Z-tube = 219 WHP
Z-tube + Kinetix plenum +UR crank pulley, +popcharger = 223 (same machine, different day)
The next run on a dynojet is in my sig. Whereas before my car was essentially the lowest on a day with multiple 350z/G35s (modded and stock), now it's making more power than many modded 6MTs. A few of you know what mods I had done since the 223 WHP dyno, and I'm still working on my article to be published detailing that. My car still has stock exhaust system and ECU.
I know that the SAE correction tries to correct for this, but it might still be off. Let's say it's only off by 6 HP, that's your 240 WHP right there.
I don't have an exact answer for the squiggly lines, my guess is it's from the tires slipping momentarily on the roller.
19"s definitely hurt. Even if the rim were the same weight as the stock 18", I bet you the 19" tire weighs more. Plus, people like to go with 275s in the rear. Those tires will give good traction, but they're heavy as well. That's why I just went with 18"s from the 350z track.
Not sure about the technosquare. Seems to work better if you have a 2003. I may eventually go with them, just because I'm in the same city as them.
For reference, here were my first two dynos on dynojets:
5AT with Z-tube = 219 WHP
Z-tube + Kinetix plenum +UR crank pulley, +popcharger = 223 (same machine, different day)
The next run on a dynojet is in my sig. Whereas before my car was essentially the lowest on a day with multiple 350z/G35s (modded and stock), now it's making more power than many modded 6MTs. A few of you know what mods I had done since the 223 WHP dyno, and I'm still working on my article to be published detailing that. My car still has stock exhaust system and ECU.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thank you!
Originally Posted by Gman2004
I am no dyno expert but those number are about right.
answers
1. Don't know what the squiglly lines are.
2. Don't know for N/A set up.
3. IMO I think you would benefit from a TS reflash. The best increase I have seen has been 15-20whp with the flash after all the bolt ons. I have not heard anything good about the unichip for n/a in fact do a search, I think one guy posted that it did not work. Also if you don't have a unichip tuner near you it will be useless. As far as piggy backs they don't really work for n/a from what I have seen.
4. Well if you are running rich right now, then you should lean it up, but if you are running lean then you need to rich it up a bit. Since I don't know the ideal a/f for n/a I don't know which way you should go.
5. Yeah basically. You will spend about another $800-$1600 for headers and installation depending on which ones you buy and get 5-20whp more.
6. No one know the answer to this question. The short answer is this car does not respond to bolt ons that well....maybe it is the ecu or maybe the car is already tune to its max from the factory.
7....MY opioion - Save your money and go FI if you want to see real gains. With the single turbo kits coming out for the g very soon you can gain 120-160whp for under $6000-$7000. My G dynoed at 232rwhp on a dynojet with top speed headers, test pipes, custom 3" y pipe and b-pipe, and Greddy SP2....pathetic!
answers
1. Don't know what the squiglly lines are.
2. Don't know for N/A set up.
3. IMO I think you would benefit from a TS reflash. The best increase I have seen has been 15-20whp with the flash after all the bolt ons. I have not heard anything good about the unichip for n/a in fact do a search, I think one guy posted that it did not work. Also if you don't have a unichip tuner near you it will be useless. As far as piggy backs they don't really work for n/a from what I have seen.
4. Well if you are running rich right now, then you should lean it up, but if you are running lean then you need to rich it up a bit. Since I don't know the ideal a/f for n/a I don't know which way you should go.
5. Yeah basically. You will spend about another $800-$1600 for headers and installation depending on which ones you buy and get 5-20whp more.
6. No one know the answer to this question. The short answer is this car does not respond to bolt ons that well....maybe it is the ecu or maybe the car is already tune to its max from the factory.
7....MY opioion - Save your money and go FI if you want to see real gains. With the single turbo kits coming out for the g very soon you can gain 120-160whp for under $6000-$7000. My G dynoed at 232rwhp on a dynojet with top speed headers, test pipes, custom 3" y pipe and b-pipe, and Greddy SP2....pathetic!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by RacerX35
It's hard to say. My first dyno was at STILLEN and with Injen CAI, Stillen Dual exhaust I posted 244.7 at the wheels. I've got a '03 6MT coupe and was running on the stock wheels. The last dyno I did at STILLEN last year at the G/Z day I added light weight flywheel, pullies, grounding kit from Stillen and put down 254.5 at the wheels, and I had just put on some 20" wheels too. I guess it really depends on the mods, the motor (some show better numbers for some reason) and other outside forces. We'll see what happens this year as I have installed Kinetix high flow cats and their plenum and also added Topspeed headers.
Later,
Ray
Later,
Ray
WOW! Those are great numbers!
On a serious note-Thanks for taking the time and Good luck with the cats and plenum-
Last edited by MillersG; May 20, 2005 at 10:56 PM.
Trending Topics
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Gmaster
Answers in bold
BTW, have you reset your ECU at least after the last mod was installed?
YES I DID A 48 HOUR RESET after all mods were complete--Its been a month or so! I drive the car fairly agressively! Its wierd because the car FEELS stronger for sure!?
Your 19" are definitely hurting your performance, they simply too heavy. Instead I would get the 18" as maximum size but as lightest as possible rims (think weight reduction) since our car is a heavy boat. What stockers did you have 17" or 18"?
I HAD the Stock 18's
*Hows my AF--AM I SAFE for no long term damage? This was the main reason I dynoed!
The best power know for NA application is low 13s AFR. Yours going a little lean down low which is ok and then too rich up top. It's not bad, but can be improved. See next.
Will the too rich up top hurt anything??
*Would I benefit from a TS reflash?--if so whats a fair guess? Im reluctant toTune by mailorder but understand its the best option? HKS, UNICHIP and others too far and too expensive right now?
I'm pretty sure you would benefit from TS reflash and might correct your AFR. The TS flash doesn't really provides crazy gains by itself, however it make all mods work together I believe they have different stages where you as a customer needs to specify what mods you have
*The Dyno guy (KING of the Mustang with his 1800 Hp Mustang parked right beside me) said he would lean the mixture if he could to maximize the potential of the breathing mods? Why and do I need this? Would this cure the squiggly jumpin beans of power/torque lines?
Not sure again what's up with those lines. In order to lean the mixture your have to have something like pnp Apex-i SAFC II (see the above answer about low 13s AFR)
*Are headers the missing part of the equation? I was considering them but I am very reluctant to spend another $1500 that will net 5-15 hp.
What are your goals. Want to stay NA or going FI? If FI, you can only use it on supercharger application since turbo has different exhaust manifold.
*Last Question--Why do these Mustang cobra guys start with 390 at the wheels spend 1K on a cat back and intake and end with 450 rwhp? Dont get me wrong I LOVE THE G and wouldnt drive a mustang-WHAT THE HECK? this seems crazy--or is it just me?
Now here is very simple. For starters Cobra is supercharged V8 beast from the factory and btw they dyno 350-360 at the wheels stock. In order to achieve 450whp they can upgrade pulley, add exhaust, headers and get performance chip for about 1.5-2K or so
I WAS SURROUNDED BY Mustang guys and I guess they exagerrated slightly on the numbers!!!
So if you want to stay NA or add supercharger later, just add Stillen headers, TS reflash, change rims (optional) and try to dyno again on the same machine. I assume you use 93 octane?
THANK YOU FOR THE ADVICE!
Last edited by MillersG; May 20, 2005 at 11:16 PM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Answers in Bold!
Originally Posted by E_K
Were there other cars that dynoed with you? I keep saying this, but you really can't compare your number to someone else halfway across the country with a different dyno, different weather conditions, etc. If you had a bunch of other 350z/g35s there, you can get a better idea of how you stand.
No other cars with me--machine was ran for a tune a couple hours before he put mine on.
I know that the SAE correction tries to correct for this, but it might still be off. Let's say it's only off by 6 HP, that's your 240 WHP right there.
I don't have an exact answer for the squiggly lines, my guess is it's from the tires slipping momentarily on the roller.
19"s definitely hurt. Even if the rim were the same weight as the stock 18", I bet you the 19" tire weighs more. Plus, people like to go with 275s in the rear. Those tires will give good traction, but they're heavy as well. That's why I just went with 18"s from the 350z track.
How much do you think they hurt?
Not sure about the technosquare. Seems to work better if you have a 2003. I may eventually go with them, just because I'm in the same city as them.
For reference, here were my first two dynos on dynojets:
5AT with Z-tube = 219 WHP
Z-tube + Kinetix plenum +UR crank pulley, +popcharger = 223 (same machine, different day)
Im feeling a little better--Thanks for sharing
The next run on a dynojet is in my sig. Whereas before my car was essentially the lowest on a day with multiple 350z/G35s (modded and stock), now it's making more power than many modded 6MTs. A few of you know what mods I had done since the 223 WHP dyno, and I'm still working on my article to be published detailing that. My car still has stock exhaust system and ECU.
No other cars with me--machine was ran for a tune a couple hours before he put mine on.
I know that the SAE correction tries to correct for this, but it might still be off. Let's say it's only off by 6 HP, that's your 240 WHP right there.
I don't have an exact answer for the squiggly lines, my guess is it's from the tires slipping momentarily on the roller.
19"s definitely hurt. Even if the rim were the same weight as the stock 18", I bet you the 19" tire weighs more. Plus, people like to go with 275s in the rear. Those tires will give good traction, but they're heavy as well. That's why I just went with 18"s from the 350z track.
How much do you think they hurt?
Not sure about the technosquare. Seems to work better if you have a 2003. I may eventually go with them, just because I'm in the same city as them.
For reference, here were my first two dynos on dynojets:
5AT with Z-tube = 219 WHP
Z-tube + Kinetix plenum +UR crank pulley, +popcharger = 223 (same machine, different day)
Im feeling a little better--Thanks for sharing
The next run on a dynojet is in my sig. Whereas before my car was essentially the lowest on a day with multiple 350z/G35s (modded and stock), now it's making more power than many modded 6MTs. A few of you know what mods I had done since the 223 WHP dyno, and I'm still working on my article to be published detailing that. My car still has stock exhaust system and ECU.
First things first, your numbers look good and where I'd expect them to be. Put on the stock 17s and you'll be putting down another 10-12whp. That would put you in the 250whp range. Those rims not only are heavier, they're also large in diameter. Larger rims require more energy to spin. Your getting dinged twice for having bling rims. It's much the reason I won't go with anything larger than 18s and may stay with 17s.
The squiggly lines are simply the dyno ignition sensor getting some interference. There's nothing wrong with your car. I've seen this on other cars before.
A/Fs look completely fine. All cars start out lean in the lower rpms and go rich in the upper rpms. VQs are notorious for going relatively rich in the upper rpms. It's a good thing, it will save your engine. A upper 12:1 A/F fine. The goal is 13:1, but most VQs (stock ECU) stay in the 12:1 range. That's fine. Running rich helps cool the combustion chamber and reduces detonation.
If you want a chip, then TS is the only way to go right now. If JWT had one, I'd go with them first, but since JWT doesn't, TS is a good option.
You won't gain much of anything seeing that you're already close to 13:1.
Unfortunately headers on these cars result in minimal gains simply because the headers are a shorty design and not a longtube (LT) design. IMO, LT headers are the only way to go. They make shorty headers look like a joke. LT headers for the LS1 F-Body and Mustang Mod motors gain about 25-30whp. Shorty headers on the LS1 and Mod motors gain 5-6whp. NASCAR and F1 cars use LTs. IMO, save your money until someone does the impossible and somehow squeezes a set of LTs into the G/Z.
Forced induced motors = huge power gains for little money. Sorry, that's the way it goes.
Originally Posted by MillersG
*What the heck is up with the squiggly lines-See image 1 (run 2).
*Hows my AF--AM I SAFE for no long term damage? This was the main reason I dynoed!
*Would I benefit from a TS reflash?--if so whats a fair guess? Im reluctant toTune by mailorder but understand its the best option? HKS, UNICHIP and others too far and too expensive right now?
*The Dyno guy (KING of the Mustang with his 1800 Hp Mustang parked right beside me) said he would lean the mixture if he could to maximize the potential of the breathing mods? Why and do I need this?
*Are headers the missing part of the equation? I was considering them but I am very reluctant to spend another $1500 that will net 5-15 hp.
Why do these Mustang cobra guys start with 390 at the wheels spend 1K on a cat back and intake and end with 450 rwhp? Dont get me wrong I LOVE THE G and wouldnt drive a mustang-WHAT THE HECK? this seems crazy--or is it just me?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
esemes
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
6
Oct 24, 2010 11:33 PM
exagorazo
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
4
Jul 13, 2004 06:14 PM
