Light weight battery should save you 20lbs. Put that light weight battery were your spare(40lbs.) should go, to balance the car. That's about a 60lb. weight savings with a little effort. I don't quit know how much cables going from engine bay to trunk would weight though. Titanium exhaust and cat deletes will save you about 25 to 30 lbs. Light weight 18 in. wheels could save you about 5 lbs. a corner. So, your at least at 100 lbs. without ripping out the interior, and creature comforts.

 

I second looking into a lightweight battery. This Odyssey knocked 25 lbs. of the front driver’s side corner of the car.



I believe it is in bicycle road racing that they refer to people obsessed with losing bike weight as gram weenies.

 

Introducing a little wheel spin will indeed help the auto cars launch. There is a bog that occurs from 2500-3000rpms. Coming of the line with a little spin will allow you to quickly bypass that bog and get into the meat of the powerband. My G on EL42s, no spare, and a 1/4 tank of gas barely made a chirp at the track. I was getting low 2.2 60 foots. I'm convinced if the car could overcome the bog, it would be a solid .2-.3 quicker. The first 100' of a race is the most important.

As for gutting a car or running without a spare, I think that's a little silly for the street especially in a sport/luxury sedam. I can understand removing any excess weight at the track, but not on the street. It doesn't make much of a difference that you can feel. Removing the spare and passenger seats, will probably net .1 and 1mph in the 1/4 mile. It's not something you'll feel. If you want to do weight reduction, try this:

1) Lightweight 17X8 rims. The 3,300lb G sedan can use some extra contact patch. The wider rims would help things in the corners and give the car the stance it really needs. The 17" rims would keep rotational weight down would improve handling, braking, ride, and acceleration. It's quite easy to remove about 6lbs in weight going to lighter rims for a total savings of about 24lbs in static weight. Rotationally speaking, that could be the equalivalent of removing about 80lbs from the car.

2) G Coupe midpipe. This saves 25lbs in weight.

3) Odessey battery. This saves 20lbs from the front of the car and could potentially improve handling. Just keep in mind that these batteries are not really rated for these cars and running these batteries in temps below 60 degrees may leave you stranded.

4) At the track, run a 1/4 tank of gas (-100lbs), remove the spare (-32lbs), remove floor mats/trunk mats (20lbs).

I think it's quite possible to get a G sedan into the 3,100lb range at the track with only having to gut the trunk. The weight reduced G would be about .2-.25 and 2mph faster than the fully loaded G.

 

Are you using the car to race with, like long term?

It gets to a point basically, does it make sense to do all this?

I would say most of us are pretty practical about our cars eventhough we want more power and speed.

If not just do all the stuff when you go to the track.

 

Just take a look at the Tein drift car, they gutted that whole thing out and replaced the windows too.

 

generally...for every 100 lbs of mass removed from the car, you gain about .1 seconds in acceleration.

One of the best ways to shed pounds is like DaveB mentioned....lightwieght wheels makes a huge difference. 1 lb of rotational mass is about 10 lbs in the car. If you get lightwieght wheels and shed say 5 lbs off of each wheel, that 20 lbs for all four wheels which is about 200 lbs of mass you can remove from the car.

As far as removing the spare tire, a little caveat. Your worry shouldn't be whether or not you get a flat, your worry should be whether or not you get rear-ended. The spare tire will take some of the impact in a rear crash and will cause less damage to the passengers in the car. Just be wise, is .1 second faster really worth the inconvience or danger of flat or an accident?

Wieght savings can be very helpful in producing a race car. However for most of our daily driving purposes this is just not practical. If you want to strip the car down to just a drivers seat, with 4 wheels and an engine, with no stereo, AC, seats, carpet, etc...then why spend the extra money on a luxury car? Just buy a Sentra and gut it like mentioned above.

Also for tracking and autox purposes, wieght distribution is very important, if ever you take on a huge diet for your car, make sure you perserve the balance.

For me, track days means only the amount of gas I need to complete the run, and a lean meal. Nothing more, a good driver can overcome wieght problems.

Hooman

 

Loose weight isn't easy.

In preping my next drag trip where I am planning to get bellow 14.5.
(currently 14.8 @94 with spare/jack)

I have just removed front battery cover
Engine cover & OEM G-tube. Thess 3 piece weight together 5.5 lbs.
I put on a Carbon Fiber Z-tube(1 lb). On top of the perfoemance gain from the Z-tube, I lost 4.5 lbs.
Ordered Optima D51R (26 lbs vs. stock 46 lbs). 20lb weight loss.
The above will reduce my front end weight by about 25lbs.
Remoev All carpet, Spare/jack & leave only 1/4 tank gas. reduce 75 lbs total. Theses weight loss along should be about 100lbs & give me
.1 gain in 1/4 run.

Now comes the more important weight loss:

Just bout 15lb Forged whells on ebay, Roja Formular 7,17x7,
These will go on to my stock tires & make a 15+25=40lb combo.

Note my current wheel/tyre is 24lb(18x4 PICC Super Rozza 2 piece) + 29 lb tires = 53lb. This is 13lb weight loss per corner & total of 52lb loss of Rotating Mass. This equals 52x4=208lb static weight loss.
The result should be a 1/4 mile gain of .2

I am confident that these Gains should bring me to 14.5 target 1/4 mile time.


Now, I also ordered the 10 wire groundi8ng kit.

I am not sure this kit will make 1/4 faster or slower, because it help the shift
at redline but gaing several lbs of weight.

Any ideas? Should I put teh wires or not?

 

put the wires on. If your that worried about a couple pounds, dont eat anything the day you race, and drive naked.

 

That is not accurate.....

 

How does the grounding kit help shifting??? Just Wondering

 

5At sedan has a big lag shifting manual mode.

Must shift at 6100/6200 then the actual shift happens at 6600,
if shift late, it'll hit the red line & cut the fuel.

I read som guy after the wires could shift at 6500 & get instant up shift.

 

OK thats understandable... Thanks for the info

 

How about this for weight reduction

 

What the heck do you need the steering wheel for?

 

Thats Gangsta.. but you wanna remove the sound dampening material thats like another 20+ lbs at least.....