Question about nitrous
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Question about nitrous
Hi, I am planing to run nitrous in my G35 coupe. I dont know much about car. Can someone make a list for me of what I might need to get to run it fast and safe for the motor, Please?. I am thinking about a 100 shot wet NX, or anything that can smoke a EVO 8. My friend has an EVO and his take off is incredible fast.
#2
zex makes one for nissans that is compatible with out car. there are a few members on here using the zex wet shot
this is the site where i got mine, it was the cheapest one i could find.
http://www.morepowerracing.com/produ...or=&PT_ID=1994
this is the site where i got mine, it was the cheapest one i could find.
http://www.morepowerracing.com/produ...or=&PT_ID=1994
#5
Running rich is the safety tip. If your engine runs low on fuel when you are spraying the nitrous in the engine, you will melt one or more pistons and ruin your engine. Usually when you install nitrous systems, you beef up the fuel delivery if not add a secondary pump just for when the nitrous is being used. But sometimes when using a relatively small shot on a fuel injected car an extra pump is not needed, but running the A/F mixture a little on the rich side is cheap insurance.
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Originally Posted by JDMv35
Hi, I am planing to run nitrous in my G35 coupe. I dont know much about car. Can someone make a list for me of what I might need to get to run it fast and safe for the motor, Please?. I am thinking about a 100 shot wet NX, or anything that can smoke a EVO 8. My friend has an EVO and his take off is incredible fast.
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#10
Originally Posted by JDMv35
What brand plugs will you recommand? Isn't there something that will cut the nitrous if I'm running too lean? like a safegaurd thigy? Also will you guys recommand NX or ZEX?
#11
Nitrous works well with high compression engines (like ours). With nitrous, you will run elevated cylinder temperatures. Forced induction will elevate your cylinder pressure.
I would consider a botle heater to be necessary! The right botle pressure can make a huge difference in the power of the system. It also makes sure that your A/F ratio is constant.
I keep reading people say "run rich." A little rich is okay, but if you go too rich, your cylinder temps will go WAY UP. Proper tuning is the key to longevity!
I would consider a botle heater to be necessary! The right botle pressure can make a huge difference in the power of the system. It also makes sure that your A/F ratio is constant.
I keep reading people say "run rich." A little rich is okay, but if you go too rich, your cylinder temps will go WAY UP. Proper tuning is the key to longevity!
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#13
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Originally Posted by ducatiguy
There's no "thingy" (well atleast nothing off the shelf or that comes with any system on the market right now) that tells (or that will cut) the nitrous system if your engines running lean. The system is either on (spraying) or off. A setup like that is possible and some do have it, but these are hardcore racers who are running custom mapped ECU's designed JUST for nitrous use and or have custom nitrous fual / ignition modules doing the same job. For your "stock" setup, it's all in your hands, and everyone keeps mentioning just make sure you run rich, but here we have someone asking BASIC info about a nitrouse system, and most likley does NOT know how to "run rich" or even perhaps what it takes. Adding an extra fuel pump will make certain you have the needed fuel supply, but depending on your fuel delivery (setup) it may not be enough. You will most definately need an adjustable EFI rated (hi-pressure) fuel pressure regulator and or ECU tunning (to electronically compensate for the richness). Going a 1 to 2 heat ranges colder than stock with plugs is also a good idea, but stay away from "but plugs"! NO I dont mean SEX toys, a "but plug" is known as of them fancy plugs that sell for like $30 a pop and when you go to buy them, the guy does down the list and says but these plugs have so and so, but these are better, but this, but that, but... Stay away from the "buts". Simple is always better!
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For the ultimate n2o system, try looking up the NX maximizer. I believe it does cut fuel at a chosen A/F that you can decide to go with. It also has a window switch built in so you can choose when to spray and when to stop spraying in the RPM range.It has a WOT sensor so it will only spray if you are full throttle. It is able to ramp up the shot insted of shooting a huge shot all at once.
I'm using the Zex wet kit with my SC. The "wet" means that the n2o system is controlling extra fuel with the n2o. No ECU adjustments should be made unless you are shooting over a 100 shot, then I would suggest a Technosquare ECU reflash only to pull a little timing.
I bought a few extras like a bottle heater,remote bottle opener, window switch,an A/F bung,bottle pressure guage,and an intercooler sprayer to purge the n2o line.The Zex comes with a built in WOT sensor also.
I only shoot a 55 shot right now which comes on at 3900rpm & turns off at 6000rpm. I intercepted the Zex WOT sensor with a push button located on my foot rest so I can avoid spraying in 1st & 2nd because I already have no traction with the Stillen SC as it is.
There's an ear full for you.
I'm using the Zex wet kit with my SC. The "wet" means that the n2o system is controlling extra fuel with the n2o. No ECU adjustments should be made unless you are shooting over a 100 shot, then I would suggest a Technosquare ECU reflash only to pull a little timing.
I bought a few extras like a bottle heater,remote bottle opener, window switch,an A/F bung,bottle pressure guage,and an intercooler sprayer to purge the n2o line.The Zex comes with a built in WOT sensor also.
I only shoot a 55 shot right now which comes on at 3900rpm & turns off at 6000rpm. I intercepted the Zex WOT sensor with a push button located on my foot rest so I can avoid spraying in 1st & 2nd because I already have no traction with the Stillen SC as it is.
There's an ear full for you.
#15