I have a valet one.. it costs me about 200 and it costs another 200 to install. The install took about 3 hours. I press the lock and unlock together and it remote starts. If you have a MT car it will bypass the clutch, so if you ever decide to start your car normaly, you wouldn't have to use the clutch anymore. If you start the car up while it's in gear (which i've done like.. twice on accident) the car will literally lunge forward and then stall out. Unfortunately for me, first time it happened my car smashed into a building and second time my car ran over a parking curb.. however, just be careful And you do still need the key to start driving the car even tho the car is already started. They supposedly have built in safety features (like not starting if parking brake is not up, if in gear, etc) but occasionaly it will miss those safety precautions and still start up. Also, if you remote start it and attempt to press the brake pedal, release the parking brake, or pretty much do anything without the key, the car will just shut off to prevent someone from stealing it. HOpe this heps for anyone who is interested and has questions. Overall, this was the coolest mod i've done to date.. always amazes people and the range is pretty good too. Nothing like stepping into a car all nice and cold from the AC (even tho its bad to leave your ac on but whatever!)

 

LOL

So what did your dealer charge you for the install?

 

It was a choice between the Lojack or the remote starter, I chose the remote starter. It's a long story, but they screwed up something in the deal and I was offered that. the dealer installed it free.

 

I have a couple of these if your interested, the pics are the last reply https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-coupe-v35-2003-07/61462-remote-start-anyone-have.html

 

I gotcha. Thanks.

 

For all of those who have done things like:

While you can wire it up that way, that is considered an incorrect installation. A correct installation will bypass the clutch during remote start, but require you to use the clutch for a normal start.

True. A correct installation will also not allow the car to start while it is in gear.

True. One side thing to note though... the stock ECU shows ground on the PNP wire while the key is off. It will only supply power to the wire once the "Accessory" or "Ignition" mode has activated (by turning the key). This is still not an issue with remote start units, but note that the remote start unit operates in phases. The first phase will activate the accessory and ignition mode. The second phase will crank the starter. And the final stage will monitor the car for unusual idling parameters. The aftermarket remote start units will complete phase one regardless whether or not the car is in gear. However, when correctly installed, the remote start unit should immediately shut down once phase one is completed. The ECU activates during phase one and removes the ground signal from the PNP wire, as it senses that the car is not in "park". At that point, the remote start unit will shut down. (If you're still confused, know that a remote start works fine on a M/T car, when properly installed)

Nope. And that soooo isn't the case with Nissan vehicles, especially when the motor is cold. The engines idle higher when they are cold to help warm them up. That extra 300-500+ RPMs is more than enough to stop the motor from stalling out during a start. And the parking brake isn't strong enough to overcome the power and torque created at 1000 RPMs in first gear.

While that method does work, it's not fool proof. What happens if your windows are down and you move the car into gear? The correct installation would wire it up to the PNP wire for gear detection, and would also use a relay to wire up the clutch bypass.

If you are interested in seeing why these things are so expensive to install, take a look at a write-up that I did for the 5th generation Maximas. It's available on my web-site at http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/ in the Viper 791XV section. You'll notice that alot of the install deals with the alarm stuff, but the remote start wiring methods are the same on all 99+ Nissans. Some of the 94-99 Nissans don't use key transponders, but the install is the same with that exception.

I can clarify things if needed, but if you get nothing else out of this, get this:

1) Don't shunt the clutch pedal. Use a relay and the "output activate" wire to bypass the clutch.
2) Use the PNP wire.
3) Do the install correctly.
4) Ask lots of questions.

 

On every remote start system I've worked with the neutral safety switch input is a (-) input. Therefore, it doesn't matter when or even if voltage is applied, if there is a ground on the wire it will start, if there is not a ground (either open, or voltage) the system won't start. The PNP switch ONLY shows ground when the tranny is in N.



The largest part of the labor cost is to cover overhead, with the largest percentage going towards insurance. As cars get more and more sophisticated more SILs are commited (self insured loss). As more cars are damaged insurance companies raise premiums. The higher cost is then passed to consumers!

 

That's true, but in the Maxima, it will show ground when the key is off regardless of whether or not the car is in gear. Once the Accessory/Ignition is activated, a relay inside the stock ECU disconnects the ground and causes the remote starter to shutdown. This may be different on the G, but it definitely shows ground on the Maxima when the key is off regardless of whether the car is in gear or not.

 

In the G the PNP switch is IN the tranny, and is a purely mechanical switch. By design no matter what the line will be grounded when the car is in N.

It is possible that when the ECU is powered off all that its inputs go low. If this is the case (and you really cared) you could simply insert a diode to block the ground feedback from the ECU and only monitor the ground signal from the actual switch.

I'm 99% positive that when I verified the PNP switch in the G that the car was off, and it read ground only when in N.

 

That's good to know. I'll verify that the next time I have my car apart, as I already have the PNP wire tapped for my remote start. It should be an easy verify. I'll let you know if mine is different from what you said.

 

Before I get an installer to come out to my house and slap this on, let me make sure I order the correct parts. I am basically looking for something that will work with the LOCK + UNLOCK function to start the car, it will not LOCK the car once it has started (so that I have to use the key to get in the car) and from what I can tell, will act as a "turbo-timer" as well.

Valet (DEI) 561 T Remote Start Module: http://www.directed.com/security/valet/val_rs.asp#561T

DEI Universal Bypass Module 556U: http://cgi.ebay.com/UNIVERSAL-ALARM-TRANSPONDER-BYPASS-NEW-DEI-556U_W0QQitemZ5798488393QQcategoryZ50552QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
And from what I have read, my installer will have to drill a hole in my door and break the seal to get to the BCM? Any issues to follow will be void of any warranty?

Also - Studman, where in Florida are you and would you like to help out a retired maxima owner

 

turbomaxima: I'm in the Orlando area. I'm not sure how KP Technologies extracts the signal from the OEM remote (for the window modules), but the 561T needs a similar ground input in order to activate. If someone can verify how to get that ground output from the OEM alarm system, then the remote start can function.

I'd also have to check to see how the door locks function when the car is started, as the remote starting will disable the stock alarm (but should leave the doors locked). It's possible that you may not be able to use the keyfob to unlock the car once the car is started.

I'd also have to investigate how to remotely disable the remote start if it was running.

Is there anyone who has done this in the past who wants to share some knowledge? Otherwise, I'd have to investigate it from the start.

 

I know this seems like a ton of work just to add a remote start, but I really really don't have any interest in having an aftermarket alarm. After my last car, I could do without an aftermarket alarm for the rest of my life; I guess that could change if I live in a different area...

Do you have any other solution you could offer? And do you do mobile installs?

 

Our Window modules tap directly in to the door lock actuator and work off of 12vdc pulses. I'm not sure how you would grab a (-) signal, I would almost use a relay to convert the 12vdc to a (-).

I'm thinking you HAVE to disarm the OEM security system before you remote start the car, but I'm not sure. If you have to disarm it then you will HAVE to drill through the door boot, which can possibly leak water right on to the BCM. Somone on this board has had that issue.

If you don't have to disarm the security system then you won't have to go in to the door (as your OEM alarm will arm/disarm. One other alternative is to use a 'lock' - 'unlock' signal to remote start the car. You can then use the starter output to lock the doors back. There are lots of ways to go about doing what you want, you just have to decide what angle you want to persue.

 

Hey rupdog326 is there anything specific that I should tell the installer when getting the valet remote starter hooked up to the keyfob. Were there any issues/difficulties when installing and programming it? Is the 3 keylock press combination a standard feature with this kit or was there some other thing to install to make this work? Thanks for any help.