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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 02:11 PM
  #1  
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NA Performance plan list

What's up.

Below is a list of mods I consider, not jumping right away but just thinking about it. One thing for sure - going to keep the car NA .
Definitely expensive, but any guess what performance both dyno and ET (I'm decent driver) might be after successful install?


2005 coupe 6MT
-------------------------------------------
Engine:
$7800 AEBS 4.3L stroker kit (11.5:1 CR)
$200 MREV or Skunk2 spacer
$179 UR crank pulley
$80 z-tube
$179 Stillen Air Box
$1150 Crawford headers
$1300 HKS Dual Hi-Power Titanium (Ti) Exhaust
$940 UTEC
$359 Stillen Oil Cooler kit
$143 Nismo Thermostat
$124 Stillen Dampener Brace (torque rod)
$90 Greddy oil catch tank
-------------------------------------------
Transmission:
$769 JWT Flywheel/Clutch combo
$159 B & M Short Shifter
-------------------------------------------
Total (engine/trans): $13,672
-------------------------------------------
Suspension:
$299 Hotchkis sway bars
$157 TEIN S.Tech Springs
$154 Stillen Rear Strut Brace
--------------------------------------------
Total Susp/BBK: $610
--------------------------------------------
Labor (combined): $3500
-------------------------------------------
GRAND TOTAL: $17,782
-------------------------------------------

BTW, 50% on things can install myself, however considering the shop would install the 4.3L block why not let them do the whole thing.

Thoughts?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 02:56 PM
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From: 21°18'54.33" N, 158°05'55.47" W
damn, for 17k, I could build a 240sx. I'd probably spend a little under 12k that would be able to work a TTG35 for it's money. But I dont have the cash...but I have the sources...sucks when I can't do anything.

I think you're skimping on the transmission. I'd go with either Tilton, OSGiken, or Ogura Clutch. Tilton being the cheapest...Ogura being the more expensive. Also, try searching the site regarding the Rogue Engineering shifter. I believe someone compared it to the B&M, and preferred the RE over the B&M. I would also install a hardmount for the transmission to reduce torsion and seam weld some areas that support the transmission mounts...it's cheap, reliable insurance. and the VLSD would be absolute crap with the power gains...try gandering on the OSGiken SuperLock LSD. Good Stuff I tell you. I drove a couple of +350rwhp 240sx equipped with the SuperLock, and it's ultra awsome! Exit/Entry speeds, manji drifts, even figure-8's were easier to apply than another 240sx equipped with a KAAZ LSD. There's others like KAAZ, Ogura (I have yet to try), Quaiff, Cusco, and Nismo. You might want to look at 350EVO's Ring and Pinion set too. It may seem overkill but, I'd advise to get them crygenically treated just for reliability's sake.

Suspension, you're skimping out too. All that power but nothing really to help put it down. your stock dampers arent good enough to hold the the fowards G forces. As more torque gets applied, more work is put on the rear shocks. There's lots of raving about D-Specs...so try looking at those. S-Tech springs are too soft. If you're building a car where it's core is performance...stick to the theme. S-Techs (IMO) are geared more towards aesthetics in lowering the car and ride comfort, with less emphasis on the the spring rates. 350Z H-techs, or Swift linear springs would better suit aftermarket dampers. And like another thread regarding a TTG35 - If you can afford a TT kit, you can afford a good coilover system. In this case...if you can afford a stroker kit, you can afford a good coilover system. Tein Flex seams to be the fad, not a bad system either being they're preload and height adjustments are separate entities. Silk Road is kind of behind the scenes, but used widely by a lot of hard core drifters in Japan. They're similar to the JIC FLA2 coilovers, but a cheaper price and IMO a more quality build. JIC coilovers have a rep for blowing out early on. And you could also just waste your money on Swift and Zeal if you wanted to. If you want overkill...go with Top Secret Tuned Agarosta dampers. Dont forget the brakes too. Just go with stoptech rotors, brakelines, hawk hp+ pads, and superblue fluid and call it good. If your main emphasis is drag racing, I'd go with x-drilled rotors for reduced mass, and JUST a rear swaybar upgrade. Keep the stock one up front, and/or remove the front swaybar on raceday. It's to help with transfering the weight towards the rear.

You're missing a few things in the power development, like Y-pipe and aftermarket hi-flo cats, or test pipes. You might need some kind of spark amp due to the larger displacement. dont forget fuel pressure adjustments and aftermarket fuel supplements like aftermarket injectors and fuel pump to tune the most out of the stroker engine. I would also upgrade the radiator, oil pan spacer, and add an oil cooler.

You could get a pretty decent setup WITHOUT a stroker kit. It depends on your tuner. Things just keep adding up eh?
 

Last edited by 636Racer; Nov 30, 2005 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 03:00 PM
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G35 Coupe "Sport Package"
Unsure of the motor mods, but I would go with Stillen sways, Tokico D-Specs and either 05 OEM 350Z springs or 350Z H-Techs for your suspension mods. You could even consider 350Z RSR down springs if you wanted a larger drop.
Just my two cents.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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636Racer,
I can build a fast Civic for 17K too . This is not the point of this thread, just thinking about it loud whether I should do it or not. The idea is to be build an ultimate "sleeper", thats what the 'fuzz' is all about. 17K will also takes about to properly built TT setup with tuning but stock internals. BTW, I mentioned the oil cooler and correct, forgot about cats, y-pipe and aftermarket LSD, thanks. Brakes can be added later since stockers are the best I've seen under $55K vehicles. Also stock injectors should flow fine enough fuel with this setup with 1:1 FPR.

DRG35R,
yep, seems 350Z H-Techs are good. I don't want to sacrifice the ride quality as it's a daily driver so anything firm won't work for me.

Anywhoo, my guess is with this setup it should be around 320whp and about 300 wtq.

Thanks for inputs.
 

Last edited by Gmaster; Nov 30, 2005 at 06:39 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 01:40 PM
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From: Dallastown, PA
G35 Coupe "Sport Package"
Originally Posted by Gmaster
636Racer,
I can build a fast Civic for 17K too . This is not the point of this thread, just thinking about it loud whether I should do it or not. The idea is to be build an ultimate "sleeper", thats what the 'fuzz' is all about. 17K will also takes about to properly built TT setup with tuning but stock internals. BTW, I mentioned the oil cooler and correct, forgot about cats, y-pipe and aftermarket LSD, thanks. Brakes can be added later since stockers are the best I've seen under $55K vehicles. Also stock injectors should flow fine enough fuel with this setup with 1:1 FPR.

DRG35R,
yep, seems 350Z H-Techs are good. I don't want to sacrifice the ride quality as it's a daily driver so anything firm won't work for me.

Anywhoo, my guess is with this setup it should be around 320whp and about 300 wtq.

Thanks for inputs.
GMaster,

I just swapped out my Eibachs for the 350Z H-Techs and could not be happier. They seem to be a better match to the D-Specs. I was finally able to dial in the right ride comfort for me. I think this is the best alternative to expensive coilovers. Good Luck with all the mods.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 04:59 PM
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Thanks.

Well, I decided to sell this car and get slightly used C6 Vette and instead just spend $5K on mods within a year and run high 11s NA without any issues while keeping the warranty. $17K extra on this car is not worth my money, especially my time, and future issues. I'd rather invest these money in myself and build net worth.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 05:28 PM
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With your 11 sec. C6 plans, I see you investing a good deal of that money with Goodyear or Bridgestone. Good luck on the returns.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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U can drop the greddy catch can, unless you want the looks.. No need for that with an NA setup!
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 05:55 PM
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for the trans i would do tilton flywheel and clutch and the do headers, nismo cams, no cats, cat-back exhaust (apexi N1) and HKS V-PRO enginemanagement and get some tuning done. SWEET. Oh yeah suspension would have to be Apexi N1 type pro's. Never scimp on the suspension.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 06:16 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Gmaster
What's up.

Below is a list of mods I consider, not jumping right away but just thinking about it. One thing for sure - going to keep the car NA .
Definitely expensive, but any guess what performance both dyno and ET (I'm decent driver) might be after successful install?


2005 coupe 6MT
-------------------------------------------
Engine:
$7800 AEBS 4.3L stroker kit (11.5:1 CR)
$200 MREV or Skunk2 spacer
$179 UR crank pulley
$80 z-tube
$179 Stillen Air Box
$1150 Crawford headers
$1300 HKS Dual Hi-Power Titanium (Ti) Exhaust
$940 UTEC
$359 Stillen Oil Cooler kit
$143 Nismo Thermostat
$124 Stillen Dampener Brace (torque rod)
$90 Greddy oil catch tank
-------------------------------------------
Transmission:
$769 JWT Flywheel/Clutch combo
$159 B & M Short Shifter
-------------------------------------------
Total (engine/trans): $13,672
-------------------------------------------
Suspension:
$299 Hotchkis sway bars
$157 TEIN S.Tech Springs
$154 Stillen Rear Strut Brace
--------------------------------------------
Total Susp/BBK: $610
--------------------------------------------
Labor (combined): $3500
-------------------------------------------
GRAND TOTAL: $17,782
-------------------------------------------

BTW, 50% on things can install myself, however considering the shop would install the 4.3L block why not let them do the whole thing.

Thoughts?
What kind of number are we talking about here?? 17k is a considerable amount of money.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 07:10 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by GT-Ron
With your 11 sec. C6 plans, I see you investing a good deal of that money with Goodyear or Bridgestone. Good luck on the returns.
Heh?
 
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