Care to explain how new wheels wont be too expensive?

You really gonna leave the OEM wheel FI club? hehe

 

lol oh man same **** happend to me 2 days ago and scared the shiet outta me!!!

 

You have a club for that too? I thought you were busy with the "Granny Tranny 5AT slugo-matic club responsibilities"...

 

Don't forget I'm also president of the Brembo envy club. I'm very busy these days...

 

i purposely took the air out of my tires to have about 25psi and drove around my block and got no warning light.. i also put the air to 42 psi and had no light that way either. what a worthless feature!

i'm just getting run flats with my new wheels..

 

well its not that i wont be too expensive, but just not as expensive as i thought it would be.

the thing is, the mod bug just wont go away, so until i get my vortech, i have to do something in the mean time. so i figured wheels would be perfect. still not sure which ones but i know its gonna happen soon. I'm down to three choices, Maya STM's, Volk SF Winnings or RH Evo J5 Pro.

 

Get Work RezaxII, they look a lot like the STMs, forged magnesium too instead of cast, and you'll be one of a kind. They're on my top 5 fav wheels list.

 

Forged Magnesium are WAY TOO BRITTLE from what I've heard. My buddie says the Porsche GT Racing team uses BBS Magnesium wheels. They are known to go over transitional curbs from time to time and just that will crack the wheels. They're good for ~2 races, so just imagine what a pot hole at 45mph would do to them. Not to mention the cost...

 

so far i think the RH evo J5's are my top choice, but the STMs are a close 2

 

Hey Todd,

If you have the VDC off does you rev limiter still work? I have never hit my rev limiter. My car accerlates so fast now I've hit 7500 rpms a couple times (not on purpose).

 

I've seen 7500 rpms in 1st as well. Glad I'm not the only one. Shouldn't do anything since it's a fuel cut and at that high an AF nothing will light off/ignite/detonate.
Sounds more like limp mode. Until I had the Boost Limiter feature set in the emanage I did that a few times.

 

I am not sure I understand...limp mode? My car was running fine it just did not cut fuel off at 7500 rpms. I have my rev limiter rasied to 7100 rpms. Why is the ecu not cutting fuel at 7100 and letting me go to 7500?

 

i think that last part he was refering to todds statement

 

Jorge,

My guess is that the car only goes to 7100 rpms on a dyno and/or in real life. Your gauge cluster (just like mine) is probably just a little bit off. My guess is that the rpm lines that are on the cluster are put on with a rather lose tolerance. Then they're fit into the cluster with another rather lose tolerance. Nominal rev limiter is probably a few hundred rpms into the redline. This is so normal people (unlike most of us in the club) will shift as soon as they near the red zone of the gague cluster. In reality there is a built in margin (and tolerances) on top of the red zone. I hit my rev limiter about 400-500 rpms PAST REDLINE. I've bounced off the rev limiter I think once now with VDC off.

I know what you mean about it coming up really fast.

My new favorite thing to do is to be going about 65-70 mph on the highway and dropping it to 3rd gear. WATCH OUT!!!

 

The engine really does go to 7500rpms. What happens is that it cuts fuel at 7100 so after that there are no "combustion" events but the inertia of the motor/car/trans keeps it moving past 7100 to sometimes 7500 especially in 1st gear. I was referring to Todd's post about limp mode. At 4500-5000 rpms the ecu has a MAF check point and if it is above 4.7V it automatically goes into limp mode and will not rev past 2000rpms and acts like your motor is done. A quick off and back on of the car and your engine is all better, lol. You can imagine how I know. That is what the Boost Cut Limiter map is for on the emanage. It sets the voltage threshold for the MAF sensor at different rpm points. Sorry for the confusion.