A twin screw roots (stillen) has an almost immediate torque and throttle reponse and is a great option all around.
A Centrifugal has a spool time like a turbo which will lag acceleration, but can make more power on the top end.
Turbos have lag as well, but make the most power/torque and are more efficient.
Even if some are plug and play, I would still get a dyno tune to be safe and not lean out my motor.

 

i want big HP numbers...... i really dont take to the track unless i get the sc...... i wanna spend between 3 to 4 g's

 

for 3-4 g's, big hp numbers aren't gonna happen

 

for 3 to 4 g,s i dont see anything happening.

 

I hope that doesn't include installation.
3-4g's will probably get you 100hp or so.

 

Yes, but what use is the power right away if the wheels just spin. No amount of feathering helps against boost.

 

I spent 5 g's including install and tune (when I had my G)...that's about the best you'll find.

 

with my higher power vortech setup and 3.9 gears, I can't imagine having more torque earlier and being usable at all in 1st gear.

I have traction in 1st gear with 295 Pirelli Corsa competition tires, nismo LSD, solid motor mounts, etc. I'm sure if I had another 100 lbs of tq at 4000 rpms, I'm pretty sure I'd need drag radials and I don't want to sacrifice handling just so I can hook up 1st gear. And I also don't want to have to short shift 1st gear if I was running huge power.

my setup has plenty of power to get a little hairy if you don't watch yourself. It comes on smoothly and controlably. Not that turbo power bands are bad, but they come on a lot more violently. You might have more torque available coming out of corners, but that torque is only useful if you're running race tire levels of grip and are able to roll into WOT. With street or semi-street tires, you'd end up going half throttle out of corners instead of full WOT. With the vortech, you can go WOT out of corners so IMO the overall power making it to the ground in both setups is going to be equal UNLESS you're running slicks and have traction to spare to handle going WOT with a turbo out of a corner

A turbo making big torque at 3500-4500 rpms is nice to have because it's a good "fun" power range on the street - not making huge amounts of noise to attract attention, lots of throttle response and ability to throw you back in your seat etc, yet you don't have to go WOT and get ticketed or attract too much attention

Below 2500 rpms, my car has a lot more power than most turbo setups because I'm able to use things like headers and the 3.9 final drive which you usually don't want on a turbo setup but work great with a vortech or ATI setup. That and centrifugal SC's do make some, though not a lot of boost in the extreme low rpms - talking 1-2 lbs of boost vs a turbo setup probably not making any boost quite yet, though it's not much of a huge benefit at rpms that low (1000-2500 rpms)

 

Sentry 65 does a nice job of capturing the important elements to compare in driveability of the different choices. I had a centrifugal on my G for 23,000 miles and really enjoyed it.
I will add a couple of thoughts to the already excellent contributions.
If you do a motor build, then go turbo, you are making an already "lazy" response even more so. this is different than lag, but it is a driving factor. you replace your stock 10.3 to 1 static compression pistons with racing spec pistons and rods that have typically 8.5 to 1 static compression, and then lay on 10-12-14 psi, or even more, boost. At low rpm it is an issue. If you have bigger twin turbos or a single turbo that take more exhaust flow to spool up to boost pressure, even more delay. You need to relearn how to drive the car to get the most out of it, safely.

Something I have yet to see applied to this car is the Lysholm twin screw or Whipple type supercharger. This type of lobed or "mated" twin screw supercharger produces Roots type positive displacement blower power down low and yet keeps on pouring out the power up the rpm band like a centrifugal. It creates a huge "area under the curve" of additional power and performance. Obviously it takes a whole different fuel management system and I just have not seen one, but it is a great application for racing and I would think the street. They are not uncommon on Detroit motors. Has anybody looked into this application, because it would seem to be far and away the most efficient and competitive supercharger application? Why is nobody exploring this option?

 

Lots of advice given here. Some good. Some misleading IMO.

Do more research, a lot more research.

1) Buy and read Corky Bell's "Supercharged!" and "Maximum Boost".

2) Look for independent opinions. See if you can find a copies of Sport Z Magazine's Supercharger and Turbocharger Shootout issues. Other if possible.

2) Attend meets. Look, listen, discuss, ride in, drive all you can.

3) Be wary of input from those who don't know the difference between superchargers and turbochargers, and which companies build which.

4) Remember 99% of the time the guy who has the XXXX (pick one) supercharger or turbocharger(s) is going to tell you it's the best, regardless.

.

 

Always been a fan of the Lysholm, but always wondered why it isn't popular. Is it because of the noise it makes in some applications?

 

well im looking for a super charger thats easy to drive because allot of people drive my car and that is not that expensive

 

I am part of that 1%. I will tell you why I got what I have and the pros/cons of it as well as what I know about the others. No one setup is right for everyone.

 

Generally speaking, if a lot of people drive the car, you don't want to be putting forced induction on it. Too much power, too much risk of somebody getting into trouble or even injury with it.

 

i have the same problem on what i want to do, i know it isnt cheap but i am looking for the cheapest way and i understand that is not the best way of looking at it.

I dont plan on taking it to the tracks but i do want to be quick on the streets, im thinking of stillen sc but im wondering how much that will really run, because of the needs of pullies etc. I also am wondering how long my engine will last considering i want to keep my car as long as possible i just want to be quicker and this may be too much for what i want.

If anyone has any comments on whether FI is really the way to go or are there other mods that i can do w/ making it quicker w/out hurting my engine.

And thankyou to all for the input i have been reading and have learned a lot by everyone. Big thanx again to all.