Im Pissed About My Car!
#47
07-13-2006, 05:12 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by Kamal34
Nothing fancy but heres some pics of my car for those that havnt seen it so you can see how it looks like... Enjoy and hopefully you think its as sick as I think it is?
#48
07-13-2006, 05:21 PM
Ok guys.Some of you need to calm down and take a chil pill.I noticed some people do not read thoroughly and then it doesnt help when Kamal did not describe the situation perfectly.
Here is the deal.Kamal brought the car in to have some work done.We installed a Nitrous intercooler sprayer system which is NOT injected into the motor so a tps switch is redundant. We also powdercoated some things,added a dual 3" exhaust,etc.....This work was completed months ago.
However, the first time firing up the car lead to the current problem.There is a issue with the crank sensor circuit.So we did the obvious,try replacing the crank sensor with a test sensor we have at the shop.Car doesnt run.Then we try replacing the split second box.Doesnt help.Then we remove it completely and wire the car back up like it came when it was stock.Doesnt help.Then we replace the crank sensor with a new one from Inifinity.Car wont run! We try another new sensor,car still wont run.We try another sensor from our box of used crank sensors.Car wont run.We put the sensor in from my car,the cars runs but cuts out at 4000 rpms.
So the car is taken to Nissan, they have it for awhile and tell us it is the ECU.So we replace it and stil the same problem.So they tell us it is the harness so we replace it and still the same problem. So it leads me to beleive it has to do with the turbo timer or power invertor for the playstation or DVD players.So we disconnect those things and still same problem .Car only runs up to 4000 rpms and then cuts out.
So now we take it from Nissan and go the dyno shop and run it on the dyno with a scope and we can clearly see that the signal at the crank sensor is not inline with the signal at the ECU.It is out of sync.So this is where we are at at this time.The only other obvious thing that could cause this would be the flex plate which is stock, in good shape and installed correctly which leads us back to some sort of electrical problem.Ofcourse the car was also taken to Kearny Mesa infinitiy and they would not even look at the car.So it was brought back here and we tried to run a sheild crank sensor wire.That did nothing.I called JWT and talk to the master himself Jim and he said the sheilded crank wire issue is a crock and that only cars with unichip will experience it because of the type of crank sensor that is on the Nissan which is a electromagnetic sensor and not a typical hall sensor which casue issues with Unichip.
So that is where we are at right now.We have the car at the dyno shop and we are going back over everything with a fine tooth comb.Every single thing that was mentioned by everyone in this thread has been checked more then once on a few different occasions so unless someone has any other bright ideas, we will continue to diagnose the car and hopefully find the problem very soon.
Here is the deal.Kamal brought the car in to have some work done.We installed a Nitrous intercooler sprayer system which is NOT injected into the motor so a tps switch is redundant. We also powdercoated some things,added a dual 3" exhaust,etc.....This work was completed months ago.
However, the first time firing up the car lead to the current problem.There is a issue with the crank sensor circuit.So we did the obvious,try replacing the crank sensor with a test sensor we have at the shop.Car doesnt run.Then we try replacing the split second box.Doesnt help.Then we remove it completely and wire the car back up like it came when it was stock.Doesnt help.Then we replace the crank sensor with a new one from Inifinity.Car wont run! We try another new sensor,car still wont run.We try another sensor from our box of used crank sensors.Car wont run.We put the sensor in from my car,the cars runs but cuts out at 4000 rpms.
So the car is taken to Nissan, they have it for awhile and tell us it is the ECU.So we replace it and stil the same problem.So they tell us it is the harness so we replace it and still the same problem. So it leads me to beleive it has to do with the turbo timer or power invertor for the playstation or DVD players.So we disconnect those things and still same problem .Car only runs up to 4000 rpms and then cuts out.
So now we take it from Nissan and go the dyno shop and run it on the dyno with a scope and we can clearly see that the signal at the crank sensor is not inline with the signal at the ECU.It is out of sync.So this is where we are at at this time.The only other obvious thing that could cause this would be the flex plate which is stock, in good shape and installed correctly which leads us back to some sort of electrical problem.Ofcourse the car was also taken to Kearny Mesa infinitiy and they would not even look at the car.So it was brought back here and we tried to run a sheild crank sensor wire.That did nothing.I called JWT and talk to the master himself Jim and he said the sheilded crank wire issue is a crock and that only cars with unichip will experience it because of the type of crank sensor that is on the Nissan which is a electromagnetic sensor and not a typical hall sensor which casue issues with Unichip.
So that is where we are at right now.We have the car at the dyno shop and we are going back over everything with a fine tooth comb.Every single thing that was mentioned by everyone in this thread has been checked more then once on a few different occasions so unless someone has any other bright ideas, we will continue to diagnose the car and hopefully find the problem very soon.
#49
07-13-2006, 05:43 PM
#50
07-13-2006, 05:45 PM
#51
07-13-2006, 06:04 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by TurboTim
Ok guys.Some of you need to calm down and take a chil pill.I noticed some people do not read thoroughly and then it doesnt help when Kamal did not describe the situation perfectly.
Here is the deal.Kamal brought the car in to have some work done.We installed a Nitrous intercooler sprayer system which is NOT injected into the motor so a tps switch is redundant. We also powdercoated some things,added a dual 3" exhaust,etc.....This work was completed months ago.
However, the first time firing up the car lead to the current problem.There is a issue with the crank sensor circuit.So we did the obvious,try replacing the crank sensor with a test sensor we have at the shop.Car doesnt run.Then we try replacing the split second box.Doesnt help.Then we remove it completely and wire the car back up like it came when it was stock.Doesnt help.Then we replace the crank sensor with a new one from Inifinity.Car wont run! We try another new sensor,car still wont run.We try another sensor from our box of used crank sensors.Car wont run.We put the sensor in from my car,the cars runs but cuts out at 4000 rpms.
So the car is taken to Nissan, they have it for awhile and tell us it is the ECU.So we replace it and stil the same problem.So they tell us it is the harness so we replace it and still the same problem. So it leads me to beleive it has to do with the turbo timer or power invertor for the playstation or DVD players.So we disconnect those things and still same problem .Car only runs up to 4000 rpms and then cuts out.
So now we take it from Nissan and go the dyno shop and run it on the dyno with a scope and we can clearly see that the signal at the crank sensor is not inline with the signal at the ECU.It is out of sync.So this is where we are at at this time.The only other obvious thing that could cause this would be the flex plate which is stock, in good shape and installed correctly which leads us back to some sort of electrical problem.Ofcourse the car was also taken to Kearny Mesa infinitiy and they would not even look at the car.So it was brought back here and we tried to run a sheild crank sensor wire.That did nothing.I called JWT and talk to the master himself Jim and he said the sheilded crank wire issue is a crock and that only cars with unichip will experience it because of the type of crank sensor that is on the Nissan which is a electromagnetic sensor and not a typical hall sensor which casue issues with Unichip.
So that is where we are at right now.We have the car at the dyno shop and we are going back over everything with a fine tooth comb.Every single thing that was mentioned by everyone in this thread has been checked more then once on a few different occasions so unless someone has any other bright ideas, we will continue to diagnose the car and hopefully find the problem very soon.
Here is the deal.Kamal brought the car in to have some work done.We installed a Nitrous intercooler sprayer system which is NOT injected into the motor so a tps switch is redundant. We also powdercoated some things,added a dual 3" exhaust,etc.....This work was completed months ago.
However, the first time firing up the car lead to the current problem.There is a issue with the crank sensor circuit.So we did the obvious,try replacing the crank sensor with a test sensor we have at the shop.Car doesnt run.Then we try replacing the split second box.Doesnt help.Then we remove it completely and wire the car back up like it came when it was stock.Doesnt help.Then we replace the crank sensor with a new one from Inifinity.Car wont run! We try another new sensor,car still wont run.We try another sensor from our box of used crank sensors.Car wont run.We put the sensor in from my car,the cars runs but cuts out at 4000 rpms.
So the car is taken to Nissan, they have it for awhile and tell us it is the ECU.So we replace it and stil the same problem.So they tell us it is the harness so we replace it and still the same problem. So it leads me to beleive it has to do with the turbo timer or power invertor for the playstation or DVD players.So we disconnect those things and still same problem .Car only runs up to 4000 rpms and then cuts out.
So now we take it from Nissan and go the dyno shop and run it on the dyno with a scope and we can clearly see that the signal at the crank sensor is not inline with the signal at the ECU.It is out of sync.So this is where we are at at this time.The only other obvious thing that could cause this would be the flex plate which is stock, in good shape and installed correctly which leads us back to some sort of electrical problem.Ofcourse the car was also taken to Kearny Mesa infinitiy and they would not even look at the car.So it was brought back here and we tried to run a sheild crank sensor wire.That did nothing.I called JWT and talk to the master himself Jim and he said the sheilded crank wire issue is a crock and that only cars with unichip will experience it because of the type of crank sensor that is on the Nissan which is a electromagnetic sensor and not a typical hall sensor which casue issues with Unichip.
So that is where we are at right now.We have the car at the dyno shop and we are going back over everything with a fine tooth comb.Every single thing that was mentioned by everyone in this thread has been checked more then once on a few different occasions so unless someone has any other bright ideas, we will continue to diagnose the car and hopefully find the problem very soon.
#52
07-13-2006, 06:34 PM
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
You are definitely doing enough to properly troubleshoot the problem, and definitely not how Kamal was describing it. I am not sure who the 'chill pill' comment was directed at... but...whatever.
It was aimed at some of the guys who are like just sell it and buy something else.
#54
07-13-2006, 08:20 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Kamal... I'll be down at SFR on Sat. I should be able to fix it, I played gran turrismo alot so I know what I'm doing...
all joking aside, I bet it will get fixed soon, I have all the faith in the world in Tim and it sounds like it's just a matter of time before a resolution is found.
Tim, forget about the pics and spend the time with Kamals car, i'm bringing a camera down this weekend.
all joking aside, I bet it will get fixed soon, I have all the faith in the world in Tim and it sounds like it's just a matter of time before a resolution is found.
Tim, forget about the pics and spend the time with Kamals car, i'm bringing a camera down this weekend.
#57
07-14-2006, 01:25 AM
All this and I still dont get it!lol. The car ran before it came into the shop right? This car isnt a lemon. You could throw a new motor, harness and trans in that thing and it would run. SOMETHING was done wrong during some part of the install of something, something being motor! My bet would be the trans but hey Im not a tech. Good luck with the project. I hope you guys can figure it out sooner then later!
#58
07-14-2006, 11:39 AM
#59
07-14-2006, 01:20 PM
Originally Posted by G352NV
All this and I still dont get it!lol. The car ran before it came into the shop right? This car isnt a lemon. You could throw a new motor, harness and trans in that thing and it would run. SOMETHING was done wrong during some part of the install of something, something being motor! My bet would be the trans but hey Im not a tech. Good luck with the project. I hope you guys can figure it out sooner then later!
The car was towed in on a flatbed because one of the lines to the oil cooler sprung a leak. So no it was not running when it came in but it was otherwise running good before this happened.The motor build and trans was done a year ago and the car was running up to this time so I think that should rule out the motor or tranny build. We did a leak down and compression after it came in to make sure and everything was perfect.
The stuff that we did this time around was cosmetic for the most part, except for the exhaust and intercooler sprayers.
Tim
Last edited by TurboTim; 07-14-2006 at 01:26 PM.
#60
07-14-2006, 05:41 PM
Originally Posted by TurboTim
The car was towed in on a flatbed because one of the lines to the oil cooler sprung a leak. So no it was not running when it came in but it was otherwise running good before this happened.The motor build and trans was done a year ago and the car was running up to this time so I think that should rule out the motor or tranny build. We did a leak down and compression after it came in to make sure and everything was perfect.
The stuff that we did this time around was cosmetic for the most part, except for the exhaust and intercooler sprayers.
Tim
The stuff that we did this time around was cosmetic for the most part, except for the exhaust and intercooler sprayers.
Tim
You did actually have to readjust the tranny though...it wasnt lineing up correctly remember?