Built engine guys.
Originally Posted by G352NV
When I replaced the cams in my Z the lifters made noise. It was really loud at about 2 to 3k in the rpm band. Replacing the lifter buckets is a biatch in the VQ. I took the car to Rob at Z car. He checked them and they were all in spec but to the end of the range. He told me not to worry that the motor would be fine. Because I am like I am I had em adjusted anyway with new lifter buckets. As for Teds cams. I had them done by Ted on the G and they were way out of adjustment. I guess he doesnt check adjustment when doing cams. Rob also fixed those.
Your the man. Not many people have put the time in, you have on a car.
I know how I did an engine build up and still swear by it today.
You have to re tourqe the heads every time after break in.
Not easy, but should re-lash the cam buckets and replace if your looking for a fine tune. Has the art of engine building been lost? The VQ is one bad engine , but still responds to basic blue printing. Guys........... it has to be done right the first time. over 40 hours for me to get the cams right in my engine. Im not turbo'ed
Here's one thing i neglected to mention in the past.
The excessive valve lifter noise is not jsut an annoyance... I have my knock sensor tapped and gauged/logged on my Innovate! MTS suite. With the stock cams, whcih were very well adjsuted, I was getting an EXTREMELY reliable knock indication...extremely (based on extensive testing where i induced actual high power knock jsut to verify the logging). Now, with this noisy engine, the knock sensor is going haywire. I ahd to install a 100KOhm pot and currently working to find a good setting where i can disable the knock. To be hnest, it's not working very well.... my timing is ALL OVER THE PLACE... The onyl way to combat this is to detach the knosk sensor from the body...and do without it. Sucks, since this probably prevents me from installing an HKS knock amp, or the like, as well.
The excessive valve lifter noise is not jsut an annoyance... I have my knock sensor tapped and gauged/logged on my Innovate! MTS suite. With the stock cams, whcih were very well adjsuted, I was getting an EXTREMELY reliable knock indication...extremely (based on extensive testing where i induced actual high power knock jsut to verify the logging). Now, with this noisy engine, the knock sensor is going haywire. I ahd to install a 100KOhm pot and currently working to find a good setting where i can disable the knock. To be hnest, it's not working very well.... my timing is ALL OVER THE PLACE... The onyl way to combat this is to detach the knosk sensor from the body...and do without it. Sucks, since this probably prevents me from installing an HKS knock amp, or the like, as well.
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
Here's one thing i neglected to mention in the past.
The excessive valve lifter noise is not jsut an annoyance... I have my knock sensor tapped and gauged/logged on my Innovate! MTS suite. With the stock cams, whcih were very well adjsuted, I was getting an EXTREMELY reliable knock indication...extremely (based on extensive testing where i induced actual high power knock jsut to verify the logging). Now, with this noisy engine, the knock sensor is going haywire. I ahd to install a 100KOhm pot and currently working to find a good setting where i can disable the knock. To be hnest, it's not working very well.... my timing is ALL OVER THE PLACE... The onyl way to combat this is to detach the knosk sensor from the body...and do without it. Sucks, since this probably prevents me from installing an HKS knock amp, or the like, as well.
The excessive valve lifter noise is not jsut an annoyance... I have my knock sensor tapped and gauged/logged on my Innovate! MTS suite. With the stock cams, whcih were very well adjsuted, I was getting an EXTREMELY reliable knock indication...extremely (based on extensive testing where i induced actual high power knock jsut to verify the logging). Now, with this noisy engine, the knock sensor is going haywire. I ahd to install a 100KOhm pot and currently working to find a good setting where i can disable the knock. To be hnest, it's not working very well.... my timing is ALL OVER THE PLACE... The onyl way to combat this is to detach the knosk sensor from the body...and do without it. Sucks, since this probably prevents me from installing an HKS knock amp, or the like, as well.
I bet it could be fun!!!!!!!!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,744
Likes: 72
From: California
Steve you don't have to go into details 
I still want that pod though 
One last question, how often should we change the oil? I was doing it at 7500 on the stock so I am assuming 3000 on the built?
I also took it for a nice long spin today and it purrs real nicely, I think Ted did an awesome job on HIS motor...lol sorry to rub it in Gurgen, couldn't resist.
I still want that pod though One last question, how often should we change the oil? I was doing it at 7500 on the stock so I am assuming 3000 on the built?
I also took it for a nice long spin today and it purrs real nicely, I think Ted did an awesome job on HIS motor...lol sorry to rub it in Gurgen, couldn't resist.
I would suggest taking a sample and sending it to Blackstone Labs and have them analyze it. They can make a recommendation on a change interval based on how your engine is treating the oil.
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From: South Bay/So. Cal beach Cities
if your car was stalling/ running in LIMP mode, then the oil must have been extremely low...
was it measured while draining the old oil??
please monitor oil Consumption ASAP...before you do any more damage...
you pay a little now, or a lot later!!!!
was it measured while draining the old oil??
please monitor oil Consumption ASAP...before you do any more damage...
you pay a little now, or a lot later!!!!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,744
Likes: 72
From: California
Originally Posted by gotyamahas
if your car was stalling/ running in LIMP mode, then the oil must have been extremely low...
was it measured while draining the old oil??
please monitor oil Consumption ASAP...before you do any more damage...
you pay a little now, or a lot later!!!!
was it measured while draining the old oil??
please monitor oil Consumption ASAP...before you do any more damage...
you pay a little now, or a lot later!!!!
I am doing a 1 month test on the new brand and will measure once a week to see how much I have and the color.
Originally Posted by urban
Steve you don't have to go into details I still want that pod though
One last question, how often should we change the oil? I was doing it at 7500 on the stock so I am assuming 3000 on the built?
I also took it for a nice long spin today and it purrs real nicely, I think Ted did an awesome job on HIS motor...lol sorry to rub it in Gurgen, couldn't resist.
I still want that pod though One last question, how often should we change the oil? I was doing it at 7500 on the stock so I am assuming 3000 on the built?
I also took it for a nice long spin today and it purrs real nicely, I think Ted did an awesome job on HIS motor...lol sorry to rub it in Gurgen, couldn't resist.
Originally Posted by GEE PASTA
Dude, Do you need "grand pa, to come to Calif. to get your ride tuned?
I bet it could be fun!!!!!!!!
I bet it could be fun!!!!!!!!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,744
Likes: 72
From: California
Weekly update
Just wanted to show comparision of one weeks drivings after oil change.
At time of oil change, yes it was filled a little high but no burnt oil and black smoke out of exhaust;
Today 750 miles later, no loss of oil as far as I can see and color looks the same;
I do roughly 3000 miles per month so we shall see in the next 3 weeks what happens.
At time of oil change, yes it was filled a little high but no burnt oil and black smoke out of exhaust;
Today 750 miles later, no loss of oil as far as I can see and color looks the same;
I do roughly 3000 miles per month so we shall see in the next 3 weeks what happens.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 253
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From: San Diego
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
Hey Guys
I do not pretend to be an expert at this, but I think I can offer something that others cannot, evidence. You very well know that if you were to ask 10 tuenrs/mecanics what oil to use, you are likely toget at least 5-6 different answers, at least. And if you ask them the $64000 question: "Why?" [they recommend one oil over the other], I promise that they will NOT offer any objective evidence. Rememebr that the latter isthe cornerstone of science, including engineering.
The ONLY way to know which oil to use, is to try the condadate ones, and do an OIL ANALYSIS ($20) after each. Well, I already did some of the legwork, and can tell you that on our forged engine, with stock rod/main bearings, forged Arias Xtreme duty pistons (rods don't matter in this case, since they do NOT under go that much friction and wear) with chrome rings (supplied with Arias) and ball bearing turbos, I would NOT use the following oils.
Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic (sheared to 35-40 wt after 2000 miles)
Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after only 900 miles, high Al and Pb (lead) wear)
Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic (sheared to ~30 wt)
Amsoil 5w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after ~1000 miles - VERY SURPRISING)
Valvoline R1 20w50 (i think it was R1..not sure) dino (sheared to 30 wt ...this has been the WORST oil so far)
I so far have solid evidence for Redline 5w30 synth - the wear number were VERY GOOD, almost EXCELLENT after 2500 miles of hard driving.
Just yesterday, I drew a sample of mine German Castrol 0w30 oil (the one used in all the Porsche turbo cars, including the 911 turbo) and sending it for analysis tomorrow morning). will post results tomorrow, that is if i don't have any head gasket issues and there is no ethylene glycol contamination (which would screw up the wear by itself).
So, do NOT believe ANYONE, and be objective. redline is the only one that I would use so far, holding high hopes for the GC 0w30 numbers.
I do not pretend to be an expert at this, but I think I can offer something that others cannot, evidence. You very well know that if you were to ask 10 tuenrs/mecanics what oil to use, you are likely toget at least 5-6 different answers, at least. And if you ask them the $64000 question: "Why?" [they recommend one oil over the other], I promise that they will NOT offer any objective evidence. Rememebr that the latter isthe cornerstone of science, including engineering.
The ONLY way to know which oil to use, is to try the condadate ones, and do an OIL ANALYSIS ($20) after each. Well, I already did some of the legwork, and can tell you that on our forged engine, with stock rod/main bearings, forged Arias Xtreme duty pistons (rods don't matter in this case, since they do NOT under go that much friction and wear) with chrome rings (supplied with Arias) and ball bearing turbos, I would NOT use the following oils.
Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic (sheared to 35-40 wt after 2000 miles)
Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after only 900 miles, high Al and Pb (lead) wear)
Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic (sheared to ~30 wt)
Amsoil 5w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after ~1000 miles - VERY SURPRISING)
Valvoline R1 20w50 (i think it was R1..not sure) dino (sheared to 30 wt ...this has been the WORST oil so far)
I so far have solid evidence for Redline 5w30 synth - the wear number were VERY GOOD, almost EXCELLENT after 2500 miles of hard driving.
Just yesterday, I drew a sample of mine German Castrol 0w30 oil (the one used in all the Porsche turbo cars, including the 911 turbo) and sending it for analysis tomorrow morning). will post results tomorrow, that is if i don't have any head gasket issues and there is no ethylene glycol contamination (which would screw up the wear by itself).
So, do NOT believe ANYONE, and be objective. redline is the only one that I would use so far, holding high hopes for the GC 0w30 numbers.
Thanks for the info.
M
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 250
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From: Eau Claire, Wisconsin
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
I would NOT use the following oils.
Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic (sheared to 35-40 wt after 2000 miles)
Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after only 900 miles, high Al and Pb (lead) wear)
Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic (sheared to ~30 wt)
Amsoil 5w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after ~1000 miles - VERY SURPRISING)
Valvoline R1 20w50 (i think it was R1..not sure) dino (sheared to 30 wt ...this has been the WORST oil so far)
I so far have solid evidence for Redline 5w30 synth - the wear number were VERY GOOD, almost EXCELLENT after 2500 miles of hard driving.
Just yesterday, I drew a sample of mine German Castrol 0w30 oil (the one used in all the Porsche turbo cars, including the 911 turbo) and sending it for analysis tomorrow morning). will post results tomorrow, that is if i don't have any head gasket issues and there is no ethylene glycol contamination (which would screw up the wear by itself).
So, do NOT believe ANYONE, and be objective. redline is the only one that I would use so far, holding high hopes for the GC 0w30 numbers.
Mobil 1 15w50 synthetic (sheared to 35-40 wt after 2000 miles)
Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after only 900 miles, high Al and Pb (lead) wear)
Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic (sheared to ~30 wt)
Amsoil 5w30 synthetic (sheared to 20wt after ~1000 miles - VERY SURPRISING)
Valvoline R1 20w50 (i think it was R1..not sure) dino (sheared to 30 wt ...this has been the WORST oil so far)
I so far have solid evidence for Redline 5w30 synth - the wear number were VERY GOOD, almost EXCELLENT after 2500 miles of hard driving.
Just yesterday, I drew a sample of mine German Castrol 0w30 oil (the one used in all the Porsche turbo cars, including the 911 turbo) and sending it for analysis tomorrow morning). will post results tomorrow, that is if i don't have any head gasket issues and there is no ethylene glycol contamination (which would screw up the wear by itself).
So, do NOT believe ANYONE, and be objective. redline is the only one that I would use so far, holding high hopes for the GC 0w30 numbers.
Has anyone tried Mobil's Delvac 1? It is a synthetic oil suitable for use in turbo diesels, which I understand are very hard on oil. Gas engine guys never seem to talk about it, but it is very popular with truckers.
Still waiting for the results on the German castrol 0W-30? Last time I read anything on Bob's oil page the GC 0W-30 was highly recommended but hard to source a supply.
As a side note, I've noticed that some turbo engine builders (not VQ) are starting to use a diesel rated truck motor oil like a synthetic 5W-40 or conventional 15W-40 and are having sucesses with protecting the engine and not cooking the oil from the turbos. It makes some sense to use a turbo rated oil in a turbocharged engine and I'm wondering if you've considered it or have come across any info, you'd like to share?
As a side note, I've noticed that some turbo engine builders (not VQ) are starting to use a diesel rated truck motor oil like a synthetic 5W-40 or conventional 15W-40 and are having sucesses with protecting the engine and not cooking the oil from the turbos. It makes some sense to use a turbo rated oil in a turbocharged engine and I'm wondering if you've considered it or have come across any info, you'd like to share?
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