with 380 to the wheel...it'll make you smile. i'm running 383 to the wheel on low boost and its enough trust me.

mine's a daily with over 15k miles put on the kit, and thus far it's still running strong.
in my opinion, the APS TT tuner kit, with utec is pretty reliable. but i'm bias

 

12-15k is enough for a TT AND a built engine...

10k should be plenty unless you're getting an Fcon which is $$$$ and unnecessary for 400whp

 

Maybe you missed the part about exhaust, gauges, engine management (UTEC), plenum spacer, etc...

Thats where the extra comes in.

 

even still, 15k is excessive now that Greddys can be bought for under 6k...12k is enough, 10k if you shop around and look for deals...

plenum spacer is also unnecessary imo

 

Unnecessary, yes; helpful, yes. Especially on a boosted VQ35, enlarging the plenum volume will definitely help.

And I'm basing the price on getting the install done at a shop, along with the tune. You can certainly save money by self installing everything. That 6k price for a Greddy TT doesn't include install.

 

I did my Greddy with EBC, UTEC, etc for a bit under $10k by shopping around and getting the parts at the best prices I could find.

 

No way 15k is enough for a built motor and tt's + supporting mods. About 10k will get you a few essential supporting mods and a TT installed and tuned on a stock motor. Then adding the cheapest built longblock around 5k + 2k install. Its already above 15k. That's forgetting taxes, little things like spark plugs, boost contollers, turbo timers, cooling mods, multiple tuning sessions, wheels, exhaust. TT's are not cheap....

Lets say...

Greddy TT w/ FMIC 5500+
Gauges and wideband 5-600+
Fuel Return System 9-1100
Injectors and fuel pump 5-600
Ready Built Longblock with cheapest pistons and rods and no headwork 5000+ (assuming no core charge because sending back old motor, if you decide to get a shortblock just add on more labor for swapping heads so same diff.)
Swapping in new motor 2000+
Installing TT's at least 1000 (even with engine out)
Tune at least 500

Then you forget taxes, shipping and other little things like a utec and what not.... its a hell of alot of money if you don't fork out for the labor....

 

^^^+1 i agree. 15k is not enough for a built TT setup.

The cheapest TT kit i've seen is the greddy, and with little things here and there plus install and tune you are looking at around 10k and maybe more if you add in other breather mods and safety mods. A built engine is easily 5k even if you were to do it yourself.

but if you are only looking for 400 and under, no need for a built motor. pass the 450 mark then yes, highly recomended.

 

+2

You are not goning to get everything you need for $15k. You might be able to get close but it's going to be hard.

 

I did it in 15k give or take a couple hundred , but I did have some left over stuff from my Vortech. I won't divulge my prices because it would be unfair to my shop, but I you CAN do it in 15k if you shop around. Built engines are coming much cheaper now. Why would you buy a longblock if you're only building the shortblock? I see plenty of shortblocks with Arias pistons and Eagle rods for ~3k. Yes, R&R will cost you about 2k, but like I said, if you shop around, it's very doable. Also, a lot of shops are doing special package deals for build engine + TT. I think MRC is one of them.

 

Going from a shortblock to a longblock cost a good amount of extra cost in labor. You're talking about having the shop add in torquing down the heads, maybe even redecking, timing the motor, the upper oil pan and seals, and etc in addition to swapping accessories. Its alot of extra work for them!! It is nearly to the point where a ready built longblock isn't a bad deal since labor for install is alot cheaper.

 

That should be included in R&R, but it also doesn't hurt that the shop that's taking the engine out is also building it

 

im in about 10k with my aps TT tuner + utec + CJM stage 2 fuel system + injectors + walbro + gauges + bunch of random ****. Adds up :P Self install so im saving money there lol

 

if you really want a safe car.. tune, run and drive it on race gas that way you will not detenate.. there u go.

the key to not blowin your engine is enough fuel to air ratio plus eng temp and compression.

 

people don't understand when u do a turbo system there is a lot more you would have to upgrade like Brakes, clutch, flywheel.. really inporant not to go half azz on a turbo setup.