So for the past few weeks, I've been trying to part together a kit similar to AAM's basic kit, I think I'm getting together what will be a nice cheap way to get a return system on our cars, I've yet to take pics of what I've put together, but its very much like aam's system in the pic. I actually never knew AAM had this thing going until I saw it in friend's car....



The system runs the stock rails in parallel and one ss line back to the tank and has the 1:1 fpr..... just wanted to post to see if anyone else wants one, or has any thoughts, suggestions.... and though its won't flow quite as great as an AAM or CJM system because of the rails, but it will still be sufficient up to 500 as I hope and will find out, and the price surely beats paying nearly a grand for the other two. I'll have a diy up in a few weeks once I've worked out any kinks....

 

nice to see someone putting together a kit themselves. keep up the good work :thumbsup:

i'm putting a kit together myself too but i'm copying overZealous1's kit over at my350z.com which is basically an inline pump, followed by a fprw/ return and Y fitting into the fuel rails leaving the stock FPR alone.

 

Not bad - rails will make all the difference though for flow.

You can also just add an FMU to the stock system to raise pressure and keep it constant...just like the Vortech Supercharger kits have. You'll likely get the same result as what you've done here, for about $200.

Good work though!

Rick

 

If your looking to get over 400whp , using a FMU like the one Vortech runs is'nt a good idea . Fuel preasure at the injectors can be as high as 135psi . Vortech used to run a FMU of 8 to 1 rising rate . And when guys started going to smaller pulleys . Vortech dropped the FMU down to 6 to 1 . [ 2004.5 or 2005 kits I think ] So running lean with boost over 9psi started to show up . Going to a return system keeps fuel preasure low and provides the flow needed .

 

Agreed - question though...

I know the pressure can get pretty high, but why not just add higher ratio disc to compensate? I'm running the AAM system now, but wouldn't it the FMU still work?

Also - to the OP - are you doing this for FI or NA reasons? You didn't mention, unless I missed it completely. For FI, above 400WHP - and smaller than a 3.12 pulley, I agree that a fuel return system should be installed - it's what I had to do to go to the 2.87 pulley and tune properly most recently.

Rick

 

You would have to run the FMU instead of FPR that the return systems come with . By why would you want to ? You are going to a return system to get rid of the high fuel preasures related to using a FMU . The whole idea is to get enough fuel to support your WHP . Going to larger injectors and a return fuel system , gets rid of the high preasure while still suppling enough fuel . A much safer system

 

No doubt...agreed. I wasn't implying using the FMU with the return system.

I'm assuming from the OP, that the kit he made, is being used for an NA setup, not FI, as it wasn't specified for that, again, unless I missed something.

Depending on the NA setup though, and I agree FI over 400WHP, you should do a return system and rails. If it's not THAT built, but still needs pressure and flow, an FMU with the proper disc can work for much less money, and if tuned properly.

I used the FMU until I just put on the 2.87 pulley...and changed over just for the hell of it...don't even know if I needed it, but did it anyway.

Rick

 

The OP isnt going to go with a return fuel system on a N/A set up . That would be a waste . If your going to do it , do it right the first time . Thats the main reason for going to a return system in the first place.

 

Agreed - which is why the OP should be more specific, when I asked...but that's OK...I agree with you. There are NA's with return systems -but they are pretty wild builds - and usually not VQ's

 

Haha

 

BTW, the OP is doing Greddy TT on a mildly built motor. https://g35driver.com/forums/florida-g-club/131383-working-my-motor-pics.html

 

Yes, I am running this setup on a built motor with a Greddy kit , I tried a few things and found that I am holding a solid 50psi and rising appropriately with boost, but right now I'm limited to my 440cc injectors and stock boost pressure. I will know for sure the limits once I get 650's and my bcs working. I'm hoping the rails will handle 500whp (dynojet), I will find out soon enough.

Total spent if bought everything retail so far, just under 400 dollars, but instead of utilizing stock feed parts, I have my own line with a y and with compression fitting.....

I'd also like to see what just adding an fpr would do, so I might try that as well... anyone want to explain how the vortech system is setup? I'll do some more research later...

......and PM's are meant for arguing = less chance of being banned No need to get provoked into name calling, we are all here to find out something we didn't know. All input appreciated...

 

Yes...sorry to get the thread side tracked .

The Vortech fuel system is pretty simple . A fuel line is T'ed off the main line and the aux. fuel pump and FMU are on that fuel line . Then it T's back into the main line . Fuel preasure rises at a rate of [8 to 1] or [6 to 1] depending on the year of the kit .

Isnt there a stock FPR on the stock rails ? Is that still in place ?

 

The stock fpr is in the fuel bucket assembly, I basically replaced that will a bypass fitting. The dampers on the rails were removed completely, still wondering if I should add something to replace their function? The only parts left are the rails themselves..... An inline pump wouldn't be needed for me since I already have a walboro, so that kills that idea for the most part....

 

Last post on this - promise.

Assuming is what gets YOU in trouble there Bill. You can assume whatever you want about timing, what I've done or not...I don't care. I don't have to prove anything to you, and you can't prove anything about me otherwise - so why try to make your clams fact?

You only challenge my facts, about what I have done, because you can't see how somebody could get the work done and still drive their car? Well, Sir, you should have better mechanics and better contacts who can work on your car faster, I guess.

Oh, and BTW - the VAST majority of my engine builds of the past years, were usually classic cars, carbureted, and had different fuel needs than injected cars - WHICH IS THE MAIN REASON I AM HERE...TO LEARN MORE WHEN AND WHERE I CAN. Like most of the rest of us.

Put your gun back in the holster and stop taking shots at me.

Rick

P.S. A month of R&D on bolt on exhaust..and then a few weeks here and there over 6 months or so testing other configurations, doesn't take 90% use of a car. Also, engine swaps are done in a week or less...and to do that 2 times, doesn't come close to YOUR time estimates. Yes, my car has been in the shop a lot, maybe about 3-4 months worth of time over the past year and a half. But I guess that is my problem and not yours. Heck it's not even any of your business.

P.P.S. I haven't forced your banishment - you have...and as other posts from the moderators have pointed out to you directly, others have complained as well. Stop targeting me and others YOU can't believe. Your the only person on this site that does this, from what I can see.....stop destroying the spirit and reason we're all here.

MY apologies to the OP for MY OT posting here, where they were OT.