I guess it is really not bad for the amount of work. Do you mean of keeping track of? (Gauges maybe?)

 

Just life in general. Work, the car, more work. At least I have a new toy now!

 

And that's just the beginning. I'm already looking into additional mods to help supplement what I already have. It's definitely a money pit but as long as you are having fun, who cares!

 

Aero be careful with that BOV its a great BOV and sounds like sex but its not made for superchargers. Turbo BOV dont release the pressure like ones made for SC, I know a lot of people that have blown up their blowers due to serge from this BOV

 

he said installed though....

 

I think HP is like a drug! I hear you, I already know I'm gonna be getting more stuff.

 

You got me worried now. Is there a specific scenario that seems to destroy the blower? Taking it to the track, releasing the pedal too early (instead of easing off the gas), etc? I think I've felt the surge. If I gun it (say to get up to 40) and then let off the gas quickly, there's a massive prolonged hiss (multiple hisses actually), but if I ease off the gas and let RPMs drop more slowly, it's not as potent. Would the stock bypass valve release the pressure faster in that scenario?

 

He posted some other work that was done and I think the price was good.







.

 

You don't know the half of it. Just take your car to the track. After a few runs, you will figure out what your weaknesses are and what needs to be improved. For me it was clutch and traction. After my very first run, I realized that the stock clutch and the T1-R's I have right now simply can't cut it. So I am already looking at buying some Mickey Thompson ET drags for the track and probably the JWT clutch/flywheel combo. The heat at LACR also convinced me that a methanol injection kit would be a huge plus also. The temp didn't dip under 90 degrees until we left the track around 10pm! The hot air and high elevation really sapped some power. In any case, that's easily another $2k-$3K right there. Then comes my bbk and . . . . . when will it ever end?

 

The reason for what youre hearing is just the amount of pressure being released quicker. Im not an expert on this but I have spoken to many techs and they have urged me to stay away from the turbo BOV. I upped my junk ATI to the Vortech one and I love the ability to justed the spring rate. I know that if you tighten the spring most of the way it releases in the same fashion and the HKS SSV. (you get that really sweet woosh woosh wosh) Ive noticed that the SC BOV have a lot bigger opening to release so that might be one reason along with when they open and close.

I just wanted to give you the heads up man not trying to scare you. We have 2 guys on our team with IS300 and IS350 both running procharges and they blew the blowers up. One blew 4 different blowers from prochargers to vortech to procomp etc etc etc now he is running a raptor (it austrialian) but running dual by-pass valves.

Long story short they dont release the air in the timely manner needed therefor you get surge

 

Congrats on the kit! Welcome to the FI club!

 

Thanks.

Here's an update for you guys, I've been driving it for a week and a half. Seems like the SC rattles a little bit when I start the car now (and around 2200-2300 RPM if I'm driving). I'm guessing this is just a simple belt issue (probably why AAM wants me to come back for a one month checkup). The thing that's worrying me the most though is my transmission. It's having a really hard time downshifting now, especially at low RPMs through an incline, which is pretty much unavoidable in my area, because people drive like sissies and slow down to 15 MPH under the limit when going up a hill, and you're ALWAYS stuck behind someone. The car starts shaking violently until I hit the gas, hit the brake, or switch to manumatic and force a downshift. I'm thinking it's the torque converter locking up. Looks like other people have had this problem (without FI too):

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...mission+shakes

The really weird part is that I think this happened once or twice a few months ago after I got my UTEC installed, in that case I turned the UTEC off for a few days, then turned it back on and the problem didn't resurface. I don't have that option now though. The only thing in common between both events are a new UTEC map plus an ECU reset, with the problem appearing about a week later. I wonder if a reflash would solve this?

 

Cant help you on the gear issue but the othe stuff .... the belts just need to be tighten and blots checked... the usual break in period.

Enjoy it im sure you want to drive the car even more now....

Boost is a drug there is no rehab for