Good tip! I'll keep an eye out for that one.

 

The factory timing curve is a very good shape....you just need to retard timing across the board for starters. So in all of the boost cells (not vaccum/cruise areas), I would start by putting -10 in all the cells (gradually ramp it in, so you wont feel it). That is super safe, and will result in about 12 degrees of timing at trq peak, and about 17-19 degrees of timing at redline. Nice and safe for a low boost setup. Timing isn't something you can dial in on the road. You really need a dyno, and an experienced tuner to do it correctly. If that's not an option...trial and error I suppose. Best of luck!

And follow AudibleMahem's adivse about pistons coming out of the block if the timing is too high.

 

So timing around 17-19 is safe around 6000+.... hhhmmm my timing is 14 from 6000rpm+, So I guess I still have more power to squeeze




Edit:
Sharif,
I was adviced that 17+ timing on a stock block is way high at 8psi.

 

I said for "low" boost...ie...5-6psi on a TT system. 93 octane fuel.....17 at redline is fine.

Remember, timing really needs to be dialed in the dyno for best results. These are just ballparks.

 

/\ got it.

 

I put in the timing as suggested and I haven't seen any pistons yet, so all is good. Power feels very linear, but my butt dyno hasn't ever received a good calibration.

 

OK, the MAP sensor is in and working fine, but can I connect the O2 Sensor output (Sensor 1 Bank 2) to the option port to get A/F into the E-Ultimate? If not, is there anything in the ECU that can be connected there to work properly? I have connected it, but the Front Panel option in E-U, has a spot to enter numbers when A/F is selected and I don't know what numbers it is expecting there. Any Ideas?