OK..I had forgot about that . Suprised Sam tuned it so aggresive knowing the risk on a stock block . He was even running 109 octain on a 100-91 octain mix tune . BY [ track ] I take it you meant road course . Running on the 1/4 wouldnt tax the motor as hard .
Thats the problem with the serp pulley set up and a blower reaching the belt slip point before redline . You never know if the belt will grab a little better one time and boost several psi higher than tuned for . Mine did 13psi to 14.9 psi and who knows...it could have boosted higher when I wasnt logging .

 

you guys ever figure the volume of the washer reservoir? I assume you guys run 50/50?

I am going to torder a W/M kit tomorrow.
1. how did you guys tap the reservoir? any pics?
2. Do you guys control it off the UTEC? Looks easy enough to wire up, by using the UTEC as the negative trigger (solenoid control pin7) instead of the pressure switch.

I need to start a new thread about this, but what are Pin11 and Pin12 on the UTEC Molex. Manual says remote map switch. I wonder if that pin sees a trigger if it will switch maps. If that was the case, then it would be worth the money to get a "smart" alky kit that outputs a trigger if something is wrong. Utec would switch maps and be good to go.

Never seen it done or mentioned before, so I guessing that is not what Pin 11 and 12 really do.

 

the washer tank holds 1 gallon - on my Z anyway. I'd assume the G35 would be the same, but maybe not


yeah it was a road course.
I think his belt was slipping some too.
But who knows if someone ran a combination of the GTM pulley, the additional lower pulley like what I have, and then the TIMROD setup if it'd be able to hold the boost reliably. That GTM pulley alone I think probably made a difference over the stock design

 

My big dilemma is that I've got a 2.87" pulley and new gates belt sitting in the house, and my SC is still defective. Given that it's gone bad twice in 6 months, I just don't know if it's worth it to have them fix the bearings, and possibly the impeller, then go with the smaller pulley, 650cc injectors and a retune, only to have the damn thing explode again in 3 months. Or I do get the Si trim impeller and eliminate the risk of overspin and impeller damage, but increase the risk of the blowing the engine!?

I already know if I go the conservative route and have them fix it as is, it's gonna go bad again. I can feel it, like the force

Keep in mind that we defective guys have different perspectives on this, the Si-trim may indeed be a bad idea for someone with a functional unit. Your perspective changes a little though when the stock setup breaks every 3 months.

 

the thing is, they use the same bearings. my blower stil says SC on the serial tag. As far as I know, they use the same bearings as the SC unit. They only change the volute and the impeller.

If you asked them for the Si upgrade, they will just pull your SC impeller off and swap it with the Si one.

 

I think my impeller is the problem (warping). At this point man, I just want something that works.

I guess from the sound of it though, if I did go with the Si-trim, I'd probably want to keep my 3.12 pulley. That's insane, it goes the same speed as the stock impeller, but makes that much more boost (obviously due to a change in shape). Which is really interesting, because if it's moving more air, it's also taking more of a beating from drag, and it's capable of higher speeds and they claim it's more resilient??? It just sounds like the holy grail for the people who were unfortunate enough to buy the doo doo they were pumping out from July to September.

 

how are things going? just found this. good info.