Stay away from Zex spark plugs use Deno's Iridium 2 steps cooler. Purge kits are sweet not totally necessary though for the street. Blow off tubes esential for tracks.


<font color=blue>'03 Brilliant Silver w/ Graphite Leather Performance Premium Aerokit </font color=blue>

 

the wet kit would be the best. These are the components I am most likely to go for:

ZEX Nitrous Kit #82021 (comes with up to 75shot)
ZEX Racer's Tuning Kit #82001

For some great pricing, contact Warren at Speedalliance.com and tell him Ted sent you.

warreng@speedalliance.com
858-637-9240 ph.
858-637-9273 fax

Cheers, Ted


'03.5 Sedan 5a: BS/G, Prem, Aero/Body, Sport, Nav
Click for MODS - www.teamtransport.org

 

I have the Zex Kit. I just changed the jets out to a 125 shot. I haven't used it yet, and am waiting to get some plugs as well as a good dyno/tune. I don't want to risk anything. The car was a beast with "only" a 75 shot, so I can wait to feel the difference.

 

did you go with the Zex kit that Ted recommended as well as the Race Tuner's Kit?

Costs/installation?

THanks,
doc

 

where did you get the 125 jet? Zex #?

cheers, ted

'03.5 Sedan 5a: BS/G, Prem, Aero/Body, Sport, Nav
Click for MODS - www.teamtransport.org

 

I apologize, SoCal...The engineer who's working on the new set-up is also working on a very large project here in Vegas for a resort, so he's put the nitrous on hold for now...The good thing is the company he works for just hired a new guy with an STI, and my engineer friend has a WRX and an RS and wants to see if he can design and engineer his own parts to take on the STI, so he now has the motivation he needs to get this nitrous done...I'll keep you posted

"1200 Techniques. Choose One. I Choose None..."

 

I'm not sure what the jetting #'s are. Zex should be able to provide you with the ideal setup.

 

There has been many discussion of nitrous on this site and my350z.com over the past couple of years. I guarantee you can find everything you'll ever need to know about nitrous if you use the search functions on each site. My350z.com even has a special forum for nitrous and has a thread called "the big bad nitrous post" the basically explains everything. I have a lot of experience with nitrous and can answer most questions about nitrous on our cars as well as civics and tegs.

There are benefits and disadvantages with nitrous, it's all about what you want for your car. People are running up to 175 shots giving up to 155 whp. I have been running between 125 and 175 over a year on our cars. Some of the others who have run high shots are 12secZ, 02trex, edretti, carlitos, and a bunch of others. Carlito is getting close to running in the 11's in the quarter mile with his setup. I have been able to even get that close to that because I have been running street tires. But I have been in the high 12's.

Like I said, if you want to learn what people are doing out there on our cars with nitrous, the benefits and disadvantages of nitrous, what parts and kits you need, or anything else, do a search or PM me.

’03 G35S 6MT, black/black:
-Zex n20 Kit 150-shot & Bottle Opener
-Amsoil Air/Oil Filters & Oil
-Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge & A/F Switch/Gauge
-Pressure-based Bottle Warmer
-MSD Window Switch

 

Zex uses bottle pressure to regulate fuel being sprayed into the engine...they said you will never run too rich or too lean, is this true??? And if so can I get the TS reflash(Not n20 reflash) and run the zex without worrying about running too lean on the top end? I also plan on using 2 step colder plugs, does this affect idle? Thanks

 

Zex dry kits use bottle pressure to regulate fuel, I don't believe their wet kits (what we need for our cars) cares about bottle pressure. I had this discussion with a tech a Zex awhile ago and that is what I was told.

What is N20 reflash?

You don't just need to worry about going lean, but you need to worry about timing as well. Advanced timing results in higher cylinder temperatures and EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures). This heat can cause detonation even if the A/F is right. Often, the TS reflashes advance timing which increases your chance of experiencing the condition I just mentioned. However, they do have nitrous programs that do not advance timing. Therefore, you should be OK. Without the Advanced Timing, the only thing you'll be getting with the TS reflash is the higher rev limit and the fuel map, which can be adjusted by the fuel jets on the nitrous kit. You'd only be getting the benefit of the higher rev limiter going with the TS reflash. Is that alone worth the $500? For me it wasn't because the horsepower curve and torgue curve starts to drop off significantly at 5500 - 6500. Best shift points that were derived from shift point calculators/forumlas say the best time to shift in our cars is close to 6450 for 1st and 2nd gear and drops to high 5000's for the remaining gears. IF you go past those points, you are not putting as much power down as you could be if you shifted within the range I mentioned. That is why, at least for me, I bypassed on the TS reflash.

I am using 1-step colder denso iridium plugs on my 150-shot and occassional 175-shot. While this may be a little risky, others have used 1-step colder with 125-shot for awhile and never had any issues. I am not sure if you will be running that high of a shot, but if not, I would stick with 1-step colder. Since I never have run 2-step colder in my G, I cannot say for shore, but my last couple of cars, I have run 2-step colder plugs and it doesn't affect idle, but does cause the car to bog down a little and is a little slower when you are not on the nitrous.



’03 G35S 6MT, black/black:
-Zex n20 Kit 150-shot & Bottle Opener
-Amsoil Air/Oil Filters & Oil
-Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge & A/F Switch/Gauge
-Pressure-based Bottle Warmer
-MSD Window Switch

 

The generic rating for the jets for 125 shot are 52N 30F. Keep in mind all cars are different. My car needed a 54N 32F for the 125 shot. Only a digital A/F guage, wideband 02 setup, or dyno will tell you where your A/F's are so you can select the right jets and run 125 safely.

’03 G35S 6MT, black/black:
-Zex n20 Kit 150-shot & Bottle Opener
-Amsoil Air/Oil Filters & Oil
-Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge & A/F Switch/Gauge
-Pressure-based Bottle Warmer
-MSD Window Switch

 

Belerin...

Do you have any sources/charts that compare jets to A/F?

Which gauge are you using, and how did you mount them?

thx - T
-T

'03.5 Sedan 5a: BS/G, Prem, Aero/Body, Sport, Nav
Click for MODS - www.teamtransport.org

 

Also, I noticed that you have a zex kit, but Zex doesn;t have larger jets. NOS brand are not compatible... did you go with a Nitrous Express jet?

thx - t

'03.5 Sedan 5a: BS/G, Prem, Aero/Body, Sport, Nav
Click for MODS - www.teamtransport.org

 

I do not have any charts. I used my dynotune digital a/f guage that I mount on the top left of my windshield next to my nitrous pressure guage (digital), I used the black velcro that came with it, but it wasn't cheesy. You couldn't tell it was velcro'ed. A/F varies for each car. That's why it can be dangerous running nitrous based on someone else's jet recommendation especially if your over 100shot. To do it right your should tune it on a dyno or wideband A/F.

For a pretty close estimate use the following link:

http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm

Our cars have about 51 psi under WOT. If you tap the fuel line with the Kentmore SPX fuel adapter (after the stock fuel damper) you get a regulated 50 - 51 psi. If you use the T-Tap and cut the fuel line and tap it before the fuel damper, it is unregulated and can vary slightly.You;ll need this information for the calculator.




’03 G35S 6MT, black/black:
-Zex n20 Kit 150-shot & Bottle Opener
-Amsoil Air/Oil Filters & Oil
-Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge & A/F Switch/Gauge
-Pressure-based Bottle Warmer
-MSD Window Switch

 

Yes, I went with NX jets. You're right, NOS jets are not compatible. If you want to have some real fun, there is actual a kit that you can use your existing kit and bore the holes out with a mini drill bit looking thing that you can spin with your hands and bore out the right diameter. THe drill bits are labeled with the diameter you want, i.e. the jet size you want. I had to do that when my local speed shop didn't have the right jet size. They let me use their kit to bore it out. I thought it was risking because I was doing it instead of a machine, but they said they do it all the time and it is very accurate.

No problems yet.

Oh, by the way, I raced at BMW 545 today and pulled on it (without nitrous). HE was hauling @$$ and I got right behind him. We both puched it and I stayed right behind him. I had to let off a little so I didn't get too close. Then we tried it again once traffic cleared starting at about 80 or 90. I started pulling on him and started to pass before traffic got heavy. Later on after another go, I stayed right with him, but couldn't pull on him. It's all in how you drive and to know what gear you need to be in. Remember, going to redline isn't always the best. Either way, I stood with him or gained on him. Good to know I spent about $20K less and have a car that compares not only on looks and interior, but on performance as well. Next time, I'll finish it early and use the nitrous.

’03 G35S 6MT, black/black:
-Zex n20 Kit 150-shot & Bottle Opener
-Amsoil Air/Oil Filters & Oil
-Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge & A/F Switch/Gauge
-Pressure-based Bottle Warmer
-MSD Window Switch