vortech ftw

 

thanks! i need a second job so i can get this kit lol

 

without a lower end build and keeping a safe tune....

don't expect more that 335rwhp but you should have godd mid torque

a good set up for a DD

also ensure that u have the proper Oil level check kit as on mine builder
had cleaance issues and needed to mod

jbk 5-08 345rwhp/ 407t
APS ST + motordyne spacer 40 series potenza's

 

+1 i wouldnt be pushing 400rwhp on a stock block. especially with turbos, your torque will kill your engine. if you want a nice, fun dd then stay around 350rwhp but there really isnt any "magic" #. also, if i was doing f/i on my 5at id do it right - vb upgrade, torque converter and tranny cooler just to be safe.

imho - if you are scraping $ together for f/i, you shouldnt do it. take whatever you think it will cost and double it just in case. things happen, thats just the way it is.

 

Thanks for the input. Im just trying to get a good feel for what kind of power I should go for with the AT and that its a DD. The reason I'm not trying to build the engine, tranny and everything and put a lot of money in right now is that I'm looking to get a GTR in a couple years when I graduate college. I cant really stand the NA bolt ons alone so I just want to do a basic conservative FI setup til then. I think the APS ST is a good basic setup with the minor tranny and other upgrades recommended for that power. I dont really see the point in completely building the car and going with a real expensive TT kit if im planning on sellin it soon....but if someone disagrees or thinks Im going about this wrong I definitely want to hear your opinion cuz advice always helps. Thanks

 

Thats what Ill be doing to my 5AT in a few months.

 

GRDperformance is a big local APS shop in Illinois. You will no question break rods with APS TT kit, then its a 10k rebuild. They said you just cant drive it till redline or beat on it when youve got stock internals. I was staring at their former shop car they sold to a customer, and blew it up, looks nice though on 20" HRE's polished. GRD says extremely high chances of breaking rods the closer you get to 385-400whp, but they havent seen issues with 350whp.

They did say the ST kit is pretty reliable, they did recomend doing a clutch at the same time because you have to take a good portion of the kit apart to get to it. Then you add the APS exhaust. all said and done came to $10,000 after parts, labor, and I had them add dyno tuning time (before/after) AF ratios are really important with FI.

Everything ive seen APS ST will make more power than stillen or vortech. I havent seen too many ppl on this forum with APS ST posts. Stillen is the #1 for reliability, but costs the same as a vortech out of the box. I havent seen anyone on here blow up on a vortech using exactly what came with the kit and they seem to be 350whp range.

My goal is to take out chipped BMW 335s, tough to do, those things are so quick.

 

chipped 335s run 400+/400+. you'll need a solid turbo kit to beat those. never do it with a blower unless its a full on hwy run..

 

I had the APS ST and what a POS (Unichip, smoking issues, power - all sucks). Just do a Greddy TT at Forged Performance and you wont be sorry.

 

Its hard to make big whp with the AT5 . The Vortech i had on my car was at 19psi and only made 487whp at 6500rpm . Im sure there was a huge lose from both the tranny and turning the blower .

I do have a VB and trq converter

 

aps-s kit and meth will net you 400, for how long is questionable.

 

This is not true, its about 380 crank with Dinan. I am pretty sure the 335 is lighter though.



Looks like the guy above had a good APS ST experience $4695 including exhaust, how can you go wrong!
Forged performance sounds awesome, but they are no where near Illinois. Need local support when going FI.


-2006 RevUP 6MT

 

Have the kit installed with roughly 4500 miles

4 things

1.)Turbo is not a true "GT35"- been downsized to facilatate "Bolt-on " install.
in my opinion in reduced state does not have enouge"whoose" to come anywhere near 350hp let alone 400 (to wheels- mine roughly 310 on a Mstange dyno w/Mangna-flow 2 3/4 pipes single exhaust & 5/8 space but plenty of torque)
2.)internal Waste gate is a no go....definately needs an upgrade
3.)on AT couple on mods were necessary on install -down pipe sucks and
dipstick had to be adjusted and moved)

Am currently planning both wastegate and down pipe upgrade (approx
$ 1,200 installed) and am seeking 375hp (???) will prob do valve body up-grade then
4.) no problem with Tranny yet (I'm pretty much a Free-way cruiser IE No Brake torqueing at stop lites)

good luck

BTW with all above APS is still better way to go overall than base Turbonetic single

If I had to do over again would go with Twins.(although don't like Jim Wolf and how he does business his twin kit specs out well

BK

 

Very True- Gives you great 60' times- but it's going to slow you down quite a bit on the street.

I like it though- My stall is super high though. I'd probably get a 2800 stall or so.. probably nothing higher than 3k.

 

Wait wait...so you're saying if I have a 5AT, just get a vb and my tranny should hold up find up to about 400hp? I thought we need a torque converter and transmission cooler to make sure it doesn't overheat and cause slippage