Yo that trap is way to LOW.. If you do have the power that you say you have then you should trap much higher than that. 102-103 mph is more of a 350Z w/ bolt-on NA trap.. You also raced in a nice cool weather (low 60's F). Even with the 20's that is a very low trap.. did you let go of your gas in the end?

 

Drop some of the dead weight...take out your spare, front passenger seat and your rear seat. That would save you about 200lbs which should get you high 12s

 

I don't know what that means, brake tourqing... lol sorry.

also I am running stock pulley.

 

I didn't let go at the end, keep in mind the power that it dynoed at was on a dynapack which I was told usually dynos about 30-40 hp too high. soin actuallity i'm running 347ish rwhp...

 

tryna keep the car a daily driver so I don't really wanna go through all the trouble, i mean im sure its still possible to hit those times on street tires w\ all seats in there, no?

 

Does your track have a weighting scale? Even at 350whp you should trap higher than that... Anyways, if you can cut your 60' to 2.0 sec then you have a chance for low 13's. Maybe with smaller/lighter wheels and Slick then you can hit high 12's but you need a great 60's...

 

Reaction Time does NOT have anything to do with E.T.
Thought I would clarify, some people think it does.

Drop some weight, 20s, and get some radials.

Good luck on your next trip out.

 

I am also an at and i hit a 1.99 60' with street tires.what they mean by brake torqueing is while holding the brake what rpm's did you launch at.

 

launch with a 5at = hold the brake with your left foot, hold the gas down to about 3-4k rpm with your right foot. you will have to practice for just enough power without spinning too much. then when the light is almost green, release brake and go.

^that will help your 60' along with all the weight reduction tips. drag radials also make a huge difference like a couple people said.

 

3-4K rpm??? I doubt he has an upgraded tq converter.

If he losses the heavy rims, turn off the VDC, shift in mm, and pw brake at around 2-2.5K rpm I think he could shave off .0001 sec. Just playing... u should see low 13s. U got to remember also 38X on a dynopak is like ~330whp on a dynojet.

 

Don't forget the Vortech makes power in the upper revs, while the Stillen makes almost instant torque. Honestly, from a Vortech this sounds about right. Your torque is probably around 300ft-lbs, and you don't make peak power unil you're already up high. I know iStan makes about 314whp from his Vortech and he hit I think 13.9 in a Convertible Z (about the same weight as a G). You are in the right area IMO, and won't be able to go much faster without losing weight and getting rid of the 20s.

I can't even brake torque =( Doing any brake torquing causes me to just sit there spinning my tires.

 

OHH!! didn't know I could do that, assumed it would hurt the car in some way... what I was going is foot on brake, nothing on the gas, then when it turned green switch...

 

yeah I was thinking about getting TE-37's 19' they should be much lighter than 45lbs per wheel... right?

 

Take your brake fuse out or wire up a switch on it . That way you can brake and gas at the same time to launch better . That will get your 60ft's down to 2 seconds and your 1/4 times to low 13's high 12's . I was easily able to do 2 second 60's and 13.2 @ 105 with 348whp with out the brake fuse mod and my best with it was 12.9 @108 with a 1.9 60 ft. . I would suspect your dyno is a high reading dyno as most AT5's get around 300 to 330whp

 

Ya for sure 45 lbs a wheel that is huge