I think I bought a dealer destroyed boosted G
wait didnt you say the it was tuned and build at forged preformance or somthing like that? im sure you could always ask them or who ever built it or what ever how they did it and what exacly they used
ask the dealer where they got it from and if they say actuion them im sure you can carfax it and track down who owned it when it was "bulit"
ask the dealer where they got it from and if they say actuion them im sure you can carfax it and track down who owned it when it was "bulit"
Thanks for all the ideas guys, definitely helpful.
Radiator cap looks to be in good condition. As a matter of fact, all caps have been replaced with Nismo caps. I know there are some fake (ebay) Nismo caps available. Any clear way of identifying which are which, or are they both usable?
I'll let you guys know how the oil holds up. The car only has 4,000 miles on it and it looks like I may have been the first to do an oil change on it. The oil in it looked burnt to a crisp. Didn't appear cloudy or anything like that before the oil change. I know what your telling me to look for so, I'll let you know what happens on that.
I realized the rules about dealership employees. One thing I was told by the dealer and another outside mechanic that helps out sometimes was, when the car arrived it was dialed in perfectly. Ran like a dream, it wasn't until their quest to make it stock again did they ruin it. So they may have been on some joy rides at that time, which I wouldn't worry too much about, but after the injectors went back to stock, I'm pretty confident they didn't take the car out. Like I said, at that point the car wouldn 't let you take it over 3,000 RPMs. It would have been quite a slow joyride.
Car came to the east coast by way of an auction in Georgia and an auction in South Carolina. So at this point, there isn't anyone around who knows more about the history of this engine (whether it was built or not, etc).
Thanks for the info about Forced Tuned here in VA. Do you happen to know their rates off hand? Do they have a website? A quick google search didn't reveal anything obvious.
Thanks again guys, I'll keep you posted if anything changes.
Radiator cap looks to be in good condition. As a matter of fact, all caps have been replaced with Nismo caps. I know there are some fake (ebay) Nismo caps available. Any clear way of identifying which are which, or are they both usable?
I'll let you guys know how the oil holds up. The car only has 4,000 miles on it and it looks like I may have been the first to do an oil change on it. The oil in it looked burnt to a crisp. Didn't appear cloudy or anything like that before the oil change. I know what your telling me to look for so, I'll let you know what happens on that.
I realized the rules about dealership employees. One thing I was told by the dealer and another outside mechanic that helps out sometimes was, when the car arrived it was dialed in perfectly. Ran like a dream, it wasn't until their quest to make it stock again did they ruin it. So they may have been on some joy rides at that time, which I wouldn't worry too much about, but after the injectors went back to stock, I'm pretty confident they didn't take the car out. Like I said, at that point the car wouldn 't let you take it over 3,000 RPMs. It would have been quite a slow joyride.
Car came to the east coast by way of an auction in Georgia and an auction in South Carolina. So at this point, there isn't anyone around who knows more about the history of this engine (whether it was built or not, etc).
Thanks for the info about Forced Tuned here in VA. Do you happen to know their rates off hand? Do they have a website? A quick google search didn't reveal anything obvious.
Thanks again guys, I'll keep you posted if anything changes.
Small update:
There is a tiny lip on the under side of my radiator cap and whenever I take it off to take a look at it, I have to tilt it to the side so all the fluid caught in the lip drains off back in to the radiator. Is that normal or should it be dry? What I mean is, during normal vehicle operation, when that system is pressurized, does the fluid normally reach the radiator cap? I wonder if it's just evaporating.
After normal driving for the last week (about 60 miles/day - 400ish overall) I've had to fill the coolant reservoir twice. I took a look at my oil since it was changed last week, and it is black. I had Motul (either 0w-30 or 10w-30) put in. I didn't get to see what that looked like before hand, but I doubt black as most oils aren't. The oil seemed to still have an oil consistency. If it were mixing with the coolant somewhere in the engine, wouldn't that thicken it up a bit? I have to double check that the oil was actually changed when I told the speed shop to change it, cause that's the color it was before I told them to change it too. Assuming that they did actually change the oil; what could burn it that fast, or at least make it look burnt?
As far as daily driving goes, I have been very gentle to this car. I wouldn't say I've taken the RPMs over 4,000 more than once or twice. Drives really strong. I still don't get any weird vibrations, idle problems, smokes or smells. One thing I thought odd, only because I had never really noticed it in my previous Z's, was the power steering fluid was boiling. Normal on a hot day after a drive? Engine temps have always been reported normal by dash gauge.
Thanks for your thoughts and comments.
There is a tiny lip on the under side of my radiator cap and whenever I take it off to take a look at it, I have to tilt it to the side so all the fluid caught in the lip drains off back in to the radiator. Is that normal or should it be dry? What I mean is, during normal vehicle operation, when that system is pressurized, does the fluid normally reach the radiator cap? I wonder if it's just evaporating.
After normal driving for the last week (about 60 miles/day - 400ish overall) I've had to fill the coolant reservoir twice. I took a look at my oil since it was changed last week, and it is black. I had Motul (either 0w-30 or 10w-30) put in. I didn't get to see what that looked like before hand, but I doubt black as most oils aren't. The oil seemed to still have an oil consistency. If it were mixing with the coolant somewhere in the engine, wouldn't that thicken it up a bit? I have to double check that the oil was actually changed when I told the speed shop to change it, cause that's the color it was before I told them to change it too. Assuming that they did actually change the oil; what could burn it that fast, or at least make it look burnt?
As far as daily driving goes, I have been very gentle to this car. I wouldn't say I've taken the RPMs over 4,000 more than once or twice. Drives really strong. I still don't get any weird vibrations, idle problems, smokes or smells. One thing I thought odd, only because I had never really noticed it in my previous Z's, was the power steering fluid was boiling. Normal on a hot day after a drive? Engine temps have always been reported normal by dash gauge.
Thanks for your thoughts and comments.
I would do a compression test 1st and leakdown test 2nd.
The coolant is going somewhere...
http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
The coolant is going somewhere...
http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
Take a sample of the oil and have it analyzed by Blackstone Labs. Search for them on the net. $20 WELL spent. They will tell you if you have anti-freeze in the oil. AND it's a written documented 3rd party test.
Does it have an aftermarket coolant reservoir like the Greddy that isn't sealed 100%. In the phoenix heat some of mine evaporates.
Also leave the car running after you get home from a drive and look under it to see if there are any slow coolant/water leaks.
Also leave the car running after you get home from a drive and look under it to see if there are any slow coolant/water leaks.











