Vortech Build Suggestions
#16
why do a compression test and leakdown test if you're just going to build the motor anyway?
I agree that 8.5 compression is way too low for the vortech. Get at least 9:1 if not higher IMO
...honestly I wouldn't spend the money on building the engine from the start. The stock engine can hold quite a bit of vortech power as it is.
uuhhhhhh, that's probably not a VQ 6 cylinder engine...
I agree that 8.5 compression is way too low for the vortech. Get at least 9:1 if not higher IMO
...honestly I wouldn't spend the money on building the engine from the start. The stock engine can hold quite a bit of vortech power as it is.
Originally Posted by Asad_A203
There is a g35 5AT in the city putting down 600-700 RWHP with a Vortech and a stroker kit and I believe he only had a valve body and a cooler. Not sure though...
#17
#18
i'm with jonnylaw on this... BS with 600+ whp. He says he's pushing 22psi with the 2.87 pulley and T trim which is impossible (unless he has a cog setup). I would love to see his pulley setup bc i'm sure it's slipping like crazy. Also he went gauge happy but that intercooler does look nice.
#19
ya no way on 600rwhp. maybe 600 backcalculated at the crank including blower loses. Then sure 600.
no way at 22 psi unless he's got a 1" exhaust. Its a show car with "show car" numbers.
If you wanna make power with a built motor, run at least 10.0:1 compression. You only make good boost at the top end, so low compression like that would be junk when not in the hi rpms. Its not like a turbo that runs max boost after its spooled, in that case you can run lower compression.
no way at 22 psi unless he's got a 1" exhaust. Its a show car with "show car" numbers.
If you wanna make power with a built motor, run at least 10.0:1 compression. You only make good boost at the top end, so low compression like that would be junk when not in the hi rpms. Its not like a turbo that runs max boost after its spooled, in that case you can run lower compression.
#22
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Winterpeg, MB
#23
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Winterpeg, MB
Originally Posted by sentry65
why do a compression test and leakdown test if you're just going to build the motor anyway?
I agree that 8.5 compression is way too low for the vortech. Get at least 9:1 if not higher IMO
...honestly I wouldn't spend the money on building the engine from the start. The stock engine can hold quite a bit of vortech power as it is.
I agree that 8.5 compression is way too low for the vortech. Get at least 9:1 if not higher IMO
...honestly I wouldn't spend the money on building the engine from the start. The stock engine can hold quite a bit of vortech power as it is.
I am just concerned about the rods snapping which seems to be pretty variable. Would a lower compression ratio benefit a turbo kit better than NA/SC application?
I am also considering a Turbonetics ST if it can deliver more power than the Vortech.
As you can see; I still got more research ahead of me but thanks for the input/advice so far.
#25
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Winterpeg, MB
Originally Posted by Mr_pharmD
u need to determine what u want to go. Turbos and sc have different builds so u need to figure how u want your pw curve to look like. Do u want massive hp and tq or a linear style pw.
Primarily I have not heard too much on the TN ST kit but can you guys fill me in on the reliability factor and the ability of this kit compared to the Vortech? I know the TN requires you to heatwrap the AC lines around it, relocate the AC lines and has higher temperatures than most turbo kits. I am not sure if the FAQ is old but it mentions 500 RWHP is achievable under the correct tune.
I am going to research more on the TN ST and get back to the topic on hand.
#27
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 751
Likes: 0
From: Winterpeg, MB
Originally Posted by sentry65
IMO I'd still ride the stock block for everything it's worth.
Even a built engine can die over stupid crap - injector going bad, sensor malfunctioning, etc
Even a built engine can die over stupid crap - injector going bad, sensor malfunctioning, etc
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