overheating?
could be many things involved thermostat not opening at the right temp, water pump may be on its last bearings. if you are overheating and constantly running boost best to bring the car back to the shop to pinpoint the problem. I particular paid 125% attention to detail with my build and every possible mod I could think of went into cooling. Bigger Rad, new Dual electric fans/shroud, new water pump, hoes and pathfinder kit.
Overheating is an issue u don't want to overlook which could later lead to bigger problems trust me and being boost would get you there the fastest..
One way to check the thermostat is to start the engine and feel the upper radiator hose (or use an infrared noncontact thermometer to read its temperature). The hose should not feel uncomfortably hot until the engine has warmed-up and the thermostat opens. If the hose does not get hot, it means the thermostat is not opening.
Another way to test the thermostat is to remove it and dip it into a pan of boiling water (it should open). The exact opening temperature can be checked by using a thermometer.
Overheating is an issue u don't want to overlook which could later lead to bigger problems trust me and being boost would get you there the fastest..
One way to check the thermostat is to start the engine and feel the upper radiator hose (or use an infrared noncontact thermometer to read its temperature). The hose should not feel uncomfortably hot until the engine has warmed-up and the thermostat opens. If the hose does not get hot, it means the thermostat is not opening.
Another way to test the thermostat is to remove it and dip it into a pan of boiling water (it should open). The exact opening temperature can be checked by using a thermometer.
• Radiator - The most common problems radiators fall prey to are clogging (both internal and external) and leaks. Dirt, bugs and debris can block air flow through the core and reduce the radiator’s ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can likewise inhibit coolant circulation and reduce cooling. A good way to find clogs is to use an infrared thermometer to "scan" the surface of the radiator for cold spots. If clogged, the radiator should be removed for cleaning or be replaced.
Backflushing the cooling system and/or using chemical cleaners can remove rust and hard water scale, but may do little to open up a clogged radiator.
When refilling the cooling system, be sure you get it completely full. Air pockets in the head(s), heater core and below the thermostat can interfere with proper coolant circulation and cooling. If the cooling system has no bleeder valves to vent air, you may have to temporarily loosen a heater hose to get all the air out of the system.
• Excessive exhaust backpressure - A clogged catalytic converter is usually the culprit here, but don’t overlook the possibility of a crushed pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If it reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system.
• Retarded or overadvanced ignition timing (may also contribute to detonation and preignition).
• Overheated incoming air - On older vehicles with a carburetor or throttle body injection, check the operation of the heated air intake system on the air cleaner. If the temperature control valve is stuck so only heated air from around the exhaust manifold is drawn into the air cleaner, it may contribute to detonation and/or overheating. Also check the heat riser valve for manifold heat on older V6 and V8 engines. If stuck shut, it may be overheating the intake manifold.
• Dragging brakes - A caliper that’s sticking or a parking brake that isn’t releasing may be making the engine work too hard.
• Overworking the engine. The cooling systems in many passenger cars today are marginal and have little excess capacity to handle extra heat generated by towing or high speed mountain driving in hot weather
Backflushing the cooling system and/or using chemical cleaners can remove rust and hard water scale, but may do little to open up a clogged radiator.
When refilling the cooling system, be sure you get it completely full. Air pockets in the head(s), heater core and below the thermostat can interfere with proper coolant circulation and cooling. If the cooling system has no bleeder valves to vent air, you may have to temporarily loosen a heater hose to get all the air out of the system.
• Excessive exhaust backpressure - A clogged catalytic converter is usually the culprit here, but don’t overlook the possibility of a crushed pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If it reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system.
• Retarded or overadvanced ignition timing (may also contribute to detonation and preignition).
• Overheated incoming air - On older vehicles with a carburetor or throttle body injection, check the operation of the heated air intake system on the air cleaner. If the temperature control valve is stuck so only heated air from around the exhaust manifold is drawn into the air cleaner, it may contribute to detonation and/or overheating. Also check the heat riser valve for manifold heat on older V6 and V8 engines. If stuck shut, it may be overheating the intake manifold.
• Dragging brakes - A caliper that’s sticking or a parking brake that isn’t releasing may be making the engine work too hard.
• Overworking the engine. The cooling systems in many passenger cars today are marginal and have little excess capacity to handle extra heat generated by towing or high speed mountain driving in hot weather
are the black spots oil? i would take a sample and send it out to be analysis
How high has your temp gauge risen? If it gets close to the top of the temp be very careful. When it rises above the top line is when you are almost certainly doomed.
everytime i drive the car in boost it overheats. (temp guage rises and coolant spews from expansion resevoir) I havnt driven it for a couple weeks or since the last time i posted. The shop said i probably blew a head gasket and its going to be 1800 to fix. IT just dosent make since to me because the car was at 7000 rpms for maybe 2.5 or 3 seconds before i shifted. I was spinning tires so thats why it was redlining.
The fact that you are "boiling over" is something to worry about though. You need to both electric radiator fans to ensure they are both running properly. You might consider doing a coolant flush and swapping the T-stat at the same time.
I would have to respectfully disagree, as I have had my temps up there over 4 times. I'm talking PEGGED to the top and I do have an aftermarket gauage and at that time coolant temps were about 270 degrees. They did that to me on the track a bunch of times (and not just for a minute, I was still driving the car hard) and during the summer here in Vegas. I'm not saying its good for the car, but I have no issues with my heads.
Has the shop done any tests to determine what is causing the overheat? Should be easy enough to do. Have they checked for air pockets, small leaks, or done a leak down test? It seems REALLY unlikely to blow a headgasket with a Vortech kit and even a marginal tune.
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Heres the story.
I spun a bearing around a year ago and needed a new motor. I could either go stock or go forged. I decided to go forged because i wanted over 400 whp, and sent the motor to national speed in wilmington NC. This is the build they suggested.
- Vortech 2.87" pulley
- GTM auxiliary tensioner
- CP Pistons 10:1CR pistons
- Eagle rods
- ACL 'Race' bearings
- OEM Rev Up oil pump
- ARP head studs
- ARP main studs
- Cometic head gaskets
- Otherwise OEM rebuild (i.e. waterpump, thermostat, seals, gaskets, etc.)
- Motordyne 5/16" plenum spacer
- Deatschwerks 600cc injectors
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- Taylor King tune on UpRev
after a lot of bumps in the road I finally got the car back and it was only producing 394 whp in about 78f weather. I drove the car in and out of boost casually for about a week when i walked up to my car before work after it had been running and it was overflowing coolent and had over heated.
The first thing we did was get a local shop to check for air pockets in the cooling system and they got rid of any excess air. The car still overheated.
WE then sent the car back to national speed they did a compression test on the coolant system and everything was ok, then their machine shop discovered a comprimised head gasket they replaced that and resurfaced the heads to be safe. Then they found that one of my megan racing flex couplers was shredded and was blocking some serious exhaust flow, they also replaced that with a straight pipe. With everything they knew of fixed the car made 438 whp and 394 tq when it was about 46 degrees. I then picked up the car and drove it for a 3 days. On the third day when the roads were finally dry and i was convinced the car was ok and in perfect condition. I was showing it off and hit it in second gear, the rear tires broke loose and rpms jumped to redline and was bouncing back and forth from 7000 to right over the 7000 mark for maybe 3 seconds. I then shifted into third and started going and the car lost all power and overheated. Now the car only overheats when you drive it in boost at all.
also i have heard good things about you sharif at forged performance and was planning on calling you soon to ask if you thought a head gasket should blow that easily. And what i should go about doing seeing how national speed is probably really sick of my car, haha its probably been there close to a year in total, and seen a lot of problems.
I spun a bearing around a year ago and needed a new motor. I could either go stock or go forged. I decided to go forged because i wanted over 400 whp, and sent the motor to national speed in wilmington NC. This is the build they suggested.
- Vortech 2.87" pulley
- GTM auxiliary tensioner
- CP Pistons 10:1CR pistons
- Eagle rods
- ACL 'Race' bearings
- OEM Rev Up oil pump
- ARP head studs
- ARP main studs
- Cometic head gaskets
- Otherwise OEM rebuild (i.e. waterpump, thermostat, seals, gaskets, etc.)
- Motordyne 5/16" plenum spacer
- Deatschwerks 600cc injectors
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump
- Taylor King tune on UpRev
after a lot of bumps in the road I finally got the car back and it was only producing 394 whp in about 78f weather. I drove the car in and out of boost casually for about a week when i walked up to my car before work after it had been running and it was overflowing coolent and had over heated.
The first thing we did was get a local shop to check for air pockets in the cooling system and they got rid of any excess air. The car still overheated.
WE then sent the car back to national speed they did a compression test on the coolant system and everything was ok, then their machine shop discovered a comprimised head gasket they replaced that and resurfaced the heads to be safe. Then they found that one of my megan racing flex couplers was shredded and was blocking some serious exhaust flow, they also replaced that with a straight pipe. With everything they knew of fixed the car made 438 whp and 394 tq when it was about 46 degrees. I then picked up the car and drove it for a 3 days. On the third day when the roads were finally dry and i was convinced the car was ok and in perfect condition. I was showing it off and hit it in second gear, the rear tires broke loose and rpms jumped to redline and was bouncing back and forth from 7000 to right over the 7000 mark for maybe 3 seconds. I then shifted into third and started going and the car lost all power and overheated. Now the car only overheats when you drive it in boost at all.
also i have heard good things about you sharif at forged performance and was planning on calling you soon to ask if you thought a head gasket should blow that easily. And what i should go about doing seeing how national speed is probably really sick of my car, haha its probably been there close to a year in total, and seen a lot of problems.
From what I've read on the forums it seems that the consensus is that HKS is the best head gasket to go with, second is the HR gasket.
Hope you get it all worked out. Sounds like your gasket is just not good under pressure.
Hope you get it all worked out. Sounds like your gasket is just not good under pressure.
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It's a 6speed manual sedan base model with some bolt ons
I agree with the water pump idea
• Radiator - The most common problems radiators fall prey to are clogging (both internal and external) and leaks. Dirt, bugs and debris can block air flow through the core and reduce the radiator’s ability to dissipate heat. Internal corrosion and an accumulation of deposits can likewise inhibit coolant circulation and reduce cooling. A good way to find clogs is to use an infrared thermometer to "scan" the surface of the radiator for cold spots. If clogged, the radiator should be removed for cleaning or be replaced.
Backflushing the cooling system and/or using chemical cleaners can remove rust and hard water scale, but may do little to open up a clogged radiator.
When refilling the cooling system, be sure you get it completely full. Air pockets in the head(s), heater core and below the thermostat can interfere with proper coolant circulation and cooling. If the cooling system has no bleeder valves to vent air, you may have to temporarily loosen a heater hose to get all the air out of the system.
• Excessive exhaust backpressure - A clogged catalytic converter is usually the culprit here, but don’t overlook the possibility of a crushed pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If it reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system.
• Retarded or overadvanced ignition timing (may also contribute to detonation and preignition).
• Overheated incoming air - On older vehicles with a carburetor or throttle body injection, check the operation of the heated air intake system on the air cleaner. If the temperature control valve is stuck so only heated air from around the exhaust manifold is drawn into the air cleaner, it may contribute to detonation and/or overheating. Also check the heat riser valve for manifold heat on older V6 and V8 engines. If stuck shut, it may be overheating the intake manifold.
• Dragging brakes - A caliper that’s sticking or a parking brake that isn’t releasing may be making the engine work too hard.
• Overworking the engine. The cooling systems in many passenger cars today are marginal and have little excess capacity to handle extra heat generated by towing or high speed mountain driving in hot weather
Backflushing the cooling system and/or using chemical cleaners can remove rust and hard water scale, but may do little to open up a clogged radiator.
When refilling the cooling system, be sure you get it completely full. Air pockets in the head(s), heater core and below the thermostat can interfere with proper coolant circulation and cooling. If the cooling system has no bleeder valves to vent air, you may have to temporarily loosen a heater hose to get all the air out of the system.
• Excessive exhaust backpressure - A clogged catalytic converter is usually the culprit here, but don’t overlook the possibility of a crushed pipe or a collapsed double wall pipe. Check intake vacuum at idle. If it reads low and continues to drop, inspect the exhaust system.
• Retarded or overadvanced ignition timing (may also contribute to detonation and preignition).
• Overheated incoming air - On older vehicles with a carburetor or throttle body injection, check the operation of the heated air intake system on the air cleaner. If the temperature control valve is stuck so only heated air from around the exhaust manifold is drawn into the air cleaner, it may contribute to detonation and/or overheating. Also check the heat riser valve for manifold heat on older V6 and V8 engines. If stuck shut, it may be overheating the intake manifold.
• Dragging brakes - A caliper that’s sticking or a parking brake that isn’t releasing may be making the engine work too hard.
• Overworking the engine. The cooling systems in many passenger cars today are marginal and have little excess capacity to handle extra heat generated by towing or high speed mountain driving in hot weather
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