Not overly excited about the vortech after it was done being tuned
some of the folks answering the phones at vortech are clueless and/or unhelpful.
there is a set screw with a jam nut on top of the bell on the bypass valve. basically, adjusting this screw will alter the amount of vacuum that is needed to close the bypass valve (ie start building boost). the mondo race bypass valve they include in the kit usually comes with 9-11 threads showing, but most guys adjust it down to 6-7 threads showing.
the more threads that are exposed, the closer to zero vacuum you have to be before the valve closes. the fewer threads that are exposed, the further from zero vacuum you have to be before the valve closes. for reference, at idle you'll see 17-20 inches of vacuum, normal highway cruising you'll see low teens, and if you punch it, you'll see low single digit inches of vacuum.
soooooooo, you'll see boost sooner if you punch it with fewer threads showing than you would if you had more threads showing.
there is a set screw with a jam nut on top of the bell on the bypass valve. basically, adjusting this screw will alter the amount of vacuum that is needed to close the bypass valve (ie start building boost). the mondo race bypass valve they include in the kit usually comes with 9-11 threads showing, but most guys adjust it down to 6-7 threads showing.
the more threads that are exposed, the closer to zero vacuum you have to be before the valve closes. the fewer threads that are exposed, the further from zero vacuum you have to be before the valve closes. for reference, at idle you'll see 17-20 inches of vacuum, normal highway cruising you'll see low teens, and if you punch it, you'll see low single digit inches of vacuum.
soooooooo, you'll see boost sooner if you punch it with fewer threads showing than you would if you had more threads showing.
Last edited by bigc; Jan 21, 2010 at 11:51 PM.
haven't heard of anyone having a BPV leak unless they installed it wrong (which is almost impossible). they do squeal like a **** though if you mess around with the pressure plate / spring. as long as your BPV works correctly there's no pressing need to change it.
Even a 2.87 pully will feel 'gutless' down low, below 4krpm or so. I drove a 450whp+ T-trim with 2.87 and it literally felt stock, in fact, worse than stock, until you got into the upper rpms. Glad I went TT...530BB's on a stock block is 'push gas and go' literally from any RPM
Even a 2.87 pully will feel 'gutless' down low, below 4krpm or so. I drove a 450whp+ T-trim with 2.87 and it literally felt stock, in fact, worse than stock, until you got into the upper rpms. Glad I went TT...530BB's on a stock block is 'push gas and go' literally from any RPM 

Didn't mean to imply it wasn't fast. It just takes some time to get used to keeping it in higher RPMs to be 'fast'. T-trim is no slouch... just can't be drivin the same as a TT.
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