So my setup was becoming obsolete....and we know how steep that slope is for changes....so it was my turn.

Well last year the clutch finally gave up on me so it was time to change it. That meant pulling motor (do to location of turbos, can't drop trans with motor in car.....ugh).

So since motor is out and turbos are off, might as well make changes right?

So the major changes are (And this could be the perfect street setup BTW):

-Precision Journal bearing 6031B turbos (same exhaust side as before modified intake side. Couldn't upgrade same turbos to billets due to different housings so this was best alternative to purchasing completely new turbos).
-BC Stage 3 (272) cams, and BC springs/retainers.
-Fluid Dampener (cracked a 2nd stock harmonic balancer)
-DXD Southbend Stage 5 Extreem 6puck clutch
-DXD Southbend Billet Flywheel
-Precision 1200cc injectors (up from 1000's...planning E85 here in the future).
-And exhaust was coated

Results:
edge of pump gas (19psi) made 655rwhp
22psi (110 octane) 706rwhp
Couldn't go above 22psi for now due to crankcase pressure. I still don't have a catch can which is requried at this point. So after that goes on the boost goes up.
For reference, on the old setup 25psi was 690rwhp, and 30psi was 769.

This one looks on track for 900rwhp on same 30psi as before!!!!

On street, still feels stock. This clutch is lighter/smoother than old. And it pulls like a raped ape, even on pump gas.

I'll get vids as soon as I can.

Here are the dyno's
They weren't picking up Tach signal so its just mph off dyno. I calculated rpm off that...not sure how close it is as larry showed me the rev limit is 7400rpm...so dunno whats up with that. When we turn boost up we'll get tach signal and TQ.

22psi


19psi


15psi


11psi and 22psi


old and new - This is the old setup with open downpipes vs the new setup through the muffler both at 11psi.


Tom

 

wow!!!! i dont know if im just overwhelmed at the numbers or very ununderstanding how you consider that much hp an old setup lol. great numbers man.

 

In for moar pix & video!

 

/\/\
Ha thanks...well new setup is capable of quite a bit more. (old turbos were rated at 460hp each, new ones are rated at 590hp each, and cams give it way more potential)

Tom

 

Dam Tom how in the hell do you get traction.Im just a little north of 400rwhp and i hardly get traction.

 

/\/\/\
305-35-18 Nitto Drag Radial.

I know some people don't like drag radials all the time, but after a certain power (on any car) you have to run them as your normal tire.

These Nitto's are holding the power really well...and I think the Nitto will give the best compromise of traction, and drivability (vs like a BFG Drag radial that I ran last year, or a MT DR that is super soft).

Tom

 

^^^ahha i new something had to be a little different.

 

I have that clutch = sick!!!

 

 

Whats up man.

 

i used to run 275/40/17 nitto 555r type II on my 240 with 380whp on pump and 530whp on race gas. they are a great tire and the type II has stiffer sidewalls but still grips great and will last 10k+ miles easily unlike bfg or mt's that you might get 3000mi out of

i did use the bfg's at the track tho to cut those 1.6 60's

best 60 on the bfg's was 1.9

cant beat the price of the nittos!!

 

I have a ACT 6puck (sprung less) in my car now, an my tuner says its at its limits? what do you think? i haven't drove the car yet since I'm overseas but when I get back what feels am I lookin for as far as slipping or pre slipping is concern? Car right now is at 530whp I plan on pushin more boost by the time I get back.

 

305-30-19 Nitto INVO and my car sticks to the ground like glue.. per what i heard..

 

/\/\
Kinda hard to say.

If the friction materials are organic style (similar to stock), then it will general slip more and more with more tq...so rpms will go up faster than speed will (faster than it should anyway) and you will smell it burning the disk material.

Some of the feramic/ceramic materials will just give up....very little slipping, it just lets the motor rev instantly....that doesn't mean the clutch is fully dead...it just means its too hot. Once it cools down you can drive normal, but when you try to put power to it, it will just rev away......

What are your power goals in the end?

Tom

 

don't really have a power goal just "Reliability at high power input" My engine is built to handle 1000hp at the crank, turbos are limited to about 800-900hp so I guess to be realistic I would "Like" to see myself in the 700 range most likely with meth/water injection.