Another TT vs SC what-to-do (not a noob)
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Minne(too.much.salt.on.the.roads)sota
Another TT vs SC what-to-do (not a noob)
Before anyone starts throwing out "use the search button" crap, I did, and I spent the past few days reading different posts and articles about FI for my car, so stop whining 
In just over a year I will be back from deployment and will be doing one of three things, TT the G, SC the G, or buy a M3. My original plan was to buy a 2004 M3 (dream car). The G would be my daily, and the M3 would be a garage queen. Lately I've been looking into just building the G. I will have more than enough $$$ to build the G when I get back, I might even have enough to build the G and buy the M3 anyways. Wont know til I'm home. As far as I see it, deployment $$ is playtime $$. All debt will be gone, time to think about me fora change.
Ok, on to the car. 2003 6MT Coupe. I want to see at least 500 driveable hp, daily driven, on pump gas. However, I dont want to see 500hp with only 370ft/lbs tq like I have seen in some dyno results, I would like to keep the tq numbers close to hp numbers.
TT or Supercharger? Note I DO NOT want a Stillen SC simply because I dont want to run a raised hood. Is a SC going to be too much low end for a daily with those numbers, and is it going to fall off at higher R's like I've seen a lot of SC's do?
I know the rods are the weak point after ~420hp, easy fix. While at that easy fix, should I go ahead and change the c/r? Are there other weak points that have come up over the years that may not be a common issue, but people have found? Its said that the rest of the motor is more than capable of 500+, but what other things do people suggest looking into anyways?
Clutch isnt anything I need to ask questions on, but what about the rest of the drive train? I didnt find much on the 6MT transmission itself, and nothing on the rear diff or axles. Dont need to run into a Subi nightmare with axles snapping every other week.
And lastly (for now), I've been looking through GTM Motorsports website. They have the "key turn" kits, and "tuner" kits. From what I understand the key turn kits are "supposed" to be a drop in/plug in and go kit. How "drop in" are these kits, because I've never seen a kit that was truly a drop in and go kit. There is always SOMETHING else you need. I've been reading good about the company, does their quality and tuning stand up to the talk? I've never been a fan of pre-tuned engine management, so it will go in and get tuned regardless.

In just over a year I will be back from deployment and will be doing one of three things, TT the G, SC the G, or buy a M3. My original plan was to buy a 2004 M3 (dream car). The G would be my daily, and the M3 would be a garage queen. Lately I've been looking into just building the G. I will have more than enough $$$ to build the G when I get back, I might even have enough to build the G and buy the M3 anyways. Wont know til I'm home. As far as I see it, deployment $$ is playtime $$. All debt will be gone, time to think about me fora change.
Ok, on to the car. 2003 6MT Coupe. I want to see at least 500 driveable hp, daily driven, on pump gas. However, I dont want to see 500hp with only 370ft/lbs tq like I have seen in some dyno results, I would like to keep the tq numbers close to hp numbers.
TT or Supercharger? Note I DO NOT want a Stillen SC simply because I dont want to run a raised hood. Is a SC going to be too much low end for a daily with those numbers, and is it going to fall off at higher R's like I've seen a lot of SC's do?
I know the rods are the weak point after ~420hp, easy fix. While at that easy fix, should I go ahead and change the c/r? Are there other weak points that have come up over the years that may not be a common issue, but people have found? Its said that the rest of the motor is more than capable of 500+, but what other things do people suggest looking into anyways?
Clutch isnt anything I need to ask questions on, but what about the rest of the drive train? I didnt find much on the 6MT transmission itself, and nothing on the rear diff or axles. Dont need to run into a Subi nightmare with axles snapping every other week.
And lastly (for now), I've been looking through GTM Motorsports website. They have the "key turn" kits, and "tuner" kits. From what I understand the key turn kits are "supposed" to be a drop in/plug in and go kit. How "drop in" are these kits, because I've never seen a kit that was truly a drop in and go kit. There is always SOMETHING else you need. I've been reading good about the company, does their quality and tuning stand up to the talk? I've never been a fan of pre-tuned engine management, so it will go in and get tuned regardless.
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From: Rep'n Ohio in Houston,TX
Turbo. If you are looking for TQ - Vortech is always gonna lag the turbo set-up
The vortech actually builds the HP and TQ - so at lower RPM's your numbers are alot weaker... The Vortech is money at cruising speeds since it is right in the powerband in that respect. On a 1/4 mile the Vortech isn't really at home as it takes time to build the power, so that is whay alot of Vortech 1/4 mile times aren't all that impressive... my $.02
The vortech actually builds the HP and TQ - so at lower RPM's your numbers are alot weaker... The Vortech is money at cruising speeds since it is right in the powerband in that respect. On a 1/4 mile the Vortech isn't really at home as it takes time to build the power, so that is whay alot of Vortech 1/4 mile times aren't all that impressive... my $.02
TT is the only way to get both HP and Trq that you are looking for.
My whole build was done through GTM, kit was in stalled at 70k and now have 142k and still going strong.
My whole build was done through GTM, kit was in stalled at 70k and now have 142k and still going strong.
Last edited by urban; Jan 21, 2011 at 12:06 AM. Reason: Add addtional info.
https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-...-gs-350zs.html
Dsport is the only person I know and he chewed through belts and went TT after all that.
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From: Rep'n Ohio in Houston,TX
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From: Chesapeake, VA/The Bronx, NY
Yes, you just need a good clutch. I read some good thing about Southbend's 6 puck clutch. I looking into a twin disc clutch. (Stay away from SPEC).
I wouldn't worry about axles now, unless they end up snapping on you.
I wouldn't worry about axles now, unless they end up snapping on you.
Yes, stick with TT.
I have heard of issues with 3rd gear breaking, but I don't think it is that common of a problem.
I have heard of issues with 3rd gear breaking, but I don't think it is that common of a problem.
Turn key = complete kit
Turner = not complete
GTM will dyno tune their builds, but they are expensive too. I have researched many shops in CA but eventually decided with GTM because of their reputation.
I would just build the short block and go with a TT since you want equal numbers.
Turner = not complete
GTM will dyno tune their builds, but they are expensive too. I have researched many shops in CA but eventually decided with GTM because of their reputation.
I would just build the short block and go with a TT since you want equal numbers.
ok, not knocking GTM (they built my car...) but i let them keep my car for a year. i was on a IA in Iraq. when i came back my car still wasn't finished. i have a single turbo APS kit. i had problems with the crossover pipe (it melted alot of wires when it broke) and it cost almost 2k to fix. got ready to leave for Japan and i had the same problem. took it to SFR and they fixed the problem. just watch out what ever you do and make sure you do your research. both places are good but it's going to cost a arm and a leg.... so what branch are you?
the vortech is a good kit and it feels great for me low end i have raced a few turbo guys and mine seemed to kick in a bit lower but there isn't alot of choice to upgrade if you decide you want more power theres only 1 charger to upgrade to. the turbo is a better choice you are free to turn up the boost anytime but they are more expensive. the engine i would do rods and pistons for sure i have heard good things on the crank i know a few guys running over 550 to the wheels on a stock crank and i have heard of others running more just get your assembly balanced well. do a good head gasket and when your doing you motor is a good time to do the cams because its like a 18 hour job to re n re cams with the motor in. the clutch i would say is a must, the 6-pucks i had problems with them wearing too fast they are really grabby for a DD car and i dont think their needed for that much horse. a full disk with a stronger pressure plate will engage smoother and last longer.






