Innovate LC-1 wideband - install tips
#1
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Innovate LC-1 wideband - install tips
Hi guys I just bought an lc-1 and wanted to install it this next weekend and do some datalogs with my cobb accessport but before I go thru the install process I wanna hear where did you placed the lc-1 programmer module ? was it inside of the car or in the engine bay. If it was inside the car where did you route the cabling? I already have the o2 bungs welded to my HFC's and know the procedure to calibrate the wideband, I am just looking at suggestions before I start running wires and actually installing everything. I will keep my OEM o2 sensors btw.
#2
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Sell it and buy a better one.....I have had terrible luck with the LC-1 my first one lasted two weeks then quit i sent it back for warranty the car was not running for about a year when I got it running the new LC-1 lasted 3 days and quit. I bought two more of them one for each bank one lasted 4 months and the other one is still running. IMO they are junk and they were installed by 3 different people and in different spots. The best spot I have seen is with the controlled behind the fender plastic. Mine right now are on the steering rack and before I had the one under the hood and heat wrapped.
#7
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#12
^^ you need to calibrate your sensor again. Sounds like it is reading wrong and therefore cant display #'s.
To the OP - I installed my LC-1 through the hole in the firewall where the steering column goes through. It sits above the plastic cover piece underneath the steering column. I kept it all this side due to the XD-16 gauge I use and since I mounted the wideband on bank 2 (drivers side) it allowed for better placement of the wires.
To the OP - I installed my LC-1 through the hole in the firewall where the steering column goes through. It sits above the plastic cover piece underneath the steering column. I kept it all this side due to the XD-16 gauge I use and since I mounted the wideband on bank 2 (drivers side) it allowed for better placement of the wires.
Last edited by Tollboothwilley; 02-12-2011 at 11:37 PM.
#13
I have the DB gauge in my Galant VR-4. So I have to install a LED that lets me know the sensor is warmed up BEFORE starting the car. If you just start and go the sensor will read 4.9volt-5volts and display 21. I would re-do both calibration (Heater and Free-Air)
Also you do now what LMprogrammer is? Or Logworks? It the software that comes with the LC-1. You use LMprogrammer to program the LC-1. Logworks is a datalogger for the LC-1 or LM-1.
Head over to http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources.php and go the the forums and download the LC-1 Manual.
#14
Join Date: Jun 2009
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Ok guys got it installed and working!
Here's my take on the installation. I installed it on the drivers side HFC before the cat, it is not replacing the oem sensor. Routed the cables and controller thru the empty space right below the windshield. The cables went straight thru the passenger side big groomet behind the battery. I used the switched power from the cigarrete lighter with a wire tap on. There is no issue there because the lc-1 just needs a 5A current and I don't even use that port. After the calibration and setting it up I plugged it to my laptop and got it to datalog A/F ratio with my cobb tuning race software . So far I am running stage 2+ and on a road pull in 3rd from 1000 rpms I got mid 12's lowering as you increase rpm and right before the limiter 11.9, I tried the stage 2 and it was seeing some high 13 numbers so I am better running 12's. After I install my GTR exhaust I will dyno the car. So far the unit is very easy to program and install will recommend. I also got it for 139 with free shipping.
Here's my take on the installation. I installed it on the drivers side HFC before the cat, it is not replacing the oem sensor. Routed the cables and controller thru the empty space right below the windshield. The cables went straight thru the passenger side big groomet behind the battery. I used the switched power from the cigarrete lighter with a wire tap on. There is no issue there because the lc-1 just needs a 5A current and I don't even use that port. After the calibration and setting it up I plugged it to my laptop and got it to datalog A/F ratio with my cobb tuning race software . So far I am running stage 2+ and on a road pull in 3rd from 1000 rpms I got mid 12's lowering as you increase rpm and right before the limiter 11.9, I tried the stage 2 and it was seeing some high 13 numbers so I am better running 12's. After I install my GTR exhaust I will dyno the car. So far the unit is very easy to program and install will recommend. I also got it for 139 with free shipping.