Well this was my FI list
https://g35driver.com/forums/5999357-post23.html

I now have an opportunity to get a used 100k 03 Vq35DE engine from a 350z
Blowing white smoke so needs some work but since im rebuilding i dont care!

I just need some help in knowing what to buy, I have pretty much spent the whole day researching and reading.

I am going to inspect the engine on friday to confirm no major damge to heads and cylinder and if not ill buy it. Here is what i currently have on the list to buy:


Wiseco Forged Pistons with wrist pins and locks 96.0mm (+0.020" Over Bore) 8.5:1 These ok? should i go for higher compression or what? Forged/non forged
Eagle H Beam Rods with ARP rod bolts
ACL Race Rod/Main/Thrust Washers & Washers
HKS Head Gasket or Cosworth Head Gaskets (i wont know what size until head has been machines) and is it true cosworth are rebadged comtec?
ARP L17 head studs or ARP L19 head studs. I will def not go over 600rwhp, can you buy used or new but opened L19s? i heard they break easy when used again or not stored correctly???
Rev up oil pump
Welsch plugs (need to be replaced when engine is acid bathed)

Brian Crower Valve Springs or Brian Crower Valve Springs and Retainers ?? Do i need to pay double to get springs with retainers ? for same price i can get s/c hand JWT ones

Machine work
Head recon
Bore and hone
Deck block
Compression test
Crack test
Balancing
Crank regrind

Questions:
1. Do i need any other gasket other than head gasket?
2. Do i need main studs or are the stock bolts ok?
3. Do i need to change water pump?
4. Do i need a bigger throttle body
5. Do i need new timing chains and tensioners ?

Is there anything else im missing?

I know ill need new clutch, throw out bearing + pilot bearing + ss line

But what about fuel, if you didnt read other thread then i got
600 DW injectors
300ltr DW pump

My aim is to have a really well build engine that i know can handle 550-600rwhp but that will only run at 450-500

Heat: What parts of the Turbo kit should i wrap? ceramic coat (engine builder said dont bother with ceramic, just wrap with DEI titanium wrap, from the bottle of intercooler to the turbo). ??

Am i missing anything?

Cheers guys

 

IMO

Questions:
1. Do i need any other gasket other than head gasket?
yes. complete overhaul kit
2. Do i need main studs or are the stock bolts ok?
Yes. no
3. Do i need to change water pump?
need to? no
4. Do i need a bigger throttle body
No
5. Do i need new timing chains and tensioners ?
need? no. might be a good idea though.

These ok? should i go for higher compression or what? Forged/non forged
yes. no. forged

and is it true cosworth are rebadged comtec?
i think they used to be a long time ago. not anymore though. they use a stopper now

I will def not go over 600rwhp, can you buy used or new but opened L19s? i heard they break easy when used again or not stored correctly???
just buy new and don't lose sleep on that one.

?? Do i need to pay double to get springs with retainers ? for same price i can get s/c hand JWT ones
if you do not have cams, don't bother

But what about fuel
At least a stage 0 fuel return

What parts of the Turbo kit should i wrap?
I wouldn't bother with any unless you are seeing high AIT's

Am i missing anything?
Torque plate
oil cooler

 

Ceramic coat everything that gives off heat, heat is the enemy ceramic coating greatly reduces the under hood temps. I personally hate the wrap it looks poor and many people say it promotes corrosion on the pipes I have never seen it myself but many that have experience with it say it does make things corrode very rapidly. Before things are installed is the time to do it. I ceramic coated my manifolds, exhaust housings, down pipes, all of the coolant hard pipes, the inside of the pipe that runs to the throttle body and a couple small pipes near the turbos. I went over kill but it was relatively cheap and very effective. I would also go with larger injectors, 800cc or so just in case you want a little more power down the road or even for track days the 600cc with be close to tapped out at 500whp you don't want to have to buy a larger set in a year or so. Like Wes said a fuel return system as well.

 

Thanks alot !
With gaskets i see many
full set for VQ35DE
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_3328wt_913

* says pathfinder so i email seller and asked if he has full set for G35...

or engine set
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...#ht_3328wt_913

and here are some more..
http://www.importpartspro.com/ni35oemengak.html + rear main seal http://www.importpartspro.com/1229631u20.html
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/product...&cat=0&page=88
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_3862wt_886
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...grr09glbo49460
god dam it why are there so many??



2. Looking at other build its not often i see they do main studs, so 100% has to be done?

3. and 5. so just inspect both and if fine dont bother?

Headgasket i have been told that the HR ones will handle what im after and much cheaper, even than the Cosworth.. So good idea if i do this and put money into something else ?

so if i dont do cams just do the spings or dont worry at all?

stage 0 fuel return, so i still have to run lines all the way back to fuel pump no matter what stage? Is there a DIY one available ? Just dont have $450 to spare on this.

Torque plate ? cant find anything on this, any links?
oil cooler - suggestions for basic one?

Thanks

 

Already got DW 600 injectors
ceramic coat both manafolds, cross over pipe, turbo hosing and 60cm of dump pipe is $450 AUD so not that cheap in Australia ... I was going to at least use DEI titanium wrap to do the lower intake pipe (from intercooler to turbo). All piping is stainless if that makes a difference and the manafolds are really thick as it is..

If i had to choose on skipping this how critical is it?

 

gotta add AAM throttle body spacer to the list, be perfect to attach utec boost solenoid, map sensor and fuel regulator too, who to buy it from?. what are good placed to buy oem parts from and which gasket kit? ya or nay on ceramic? plus other questions above, thanks guys !

 

I do agree with Sylvan lake V35 but it looked as if you are trying to save a buck. Ceramic coating and/or heat wrap just isn't that critical. You really should go with 800cc If you can.

It doesn't matter where you get the kit from. Just make sure it comes with the rear main seal

I guess we haven't seen many main stud failures but I didn't risk it.

If you're saving a buck, I assume you can just replace the tensioners.

Go for the HR headgasket. Just know that you will have to machine the block a little for the cooling passage

If you want stock cams, stay with stock springs
If you want aftermarket cams, get aftermarket springs

For fuel return...http://www.cj-motorsports.com/catdes0.htm
Think of it this way... You saved money by not buying a water pump, timing chains, Throttle body, Heat wrap or springs and retainers. Now you have plenty for that stage 0 FRS

Your machine shop must use a torque plate when boring the motor. You can rent one if your shop can't fab one.

You can save your money on the oil cooler for now. I use the Stillen oil cooler. it is kinda overpriced but the kit came complete.

 

I did run my stuff without coating for quite awhile so it is not critical. The 600cc will be fine you will likely want more though. Stock cams I would just keep stock springs. A set of Jim Wolf S1s with his springs would be nice while you're building it the "nice" to do now or "the now is the time to do it" list ican be a killer you don't need cams but you can make the power a little easier and the cams are out so when building the engine is the best time to do it but add about another $1,500 for cams/springs.

You can build your own fuel return system off your stock fuel rails. Look up 350ZT on here or boosted performance on my350z.com he built his own. He welded AN fittings on the stock rails and a -6 line would work fine with a areomotive fuel pressure regulator.

 

What will my 3037 Gattet HKS Kit turbo get me in HP anyway? Would someone please sell me a cam set for $1000 lol...

 

You just have a single 3037? You might make 425-450whp if your running one of them I wouldn't worry about cams. Stock will work fine for those power levels, I would also forget the return fuel system it will be overkill for an under 450whp set up.

 

"Go for the HR headgasket. Just know that you will have to machine the block a little for the cooling passage" can you provide more info/link/pic on this?

And yes a single 3037. Here is my kit http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/...owtopic=694747

Ok so while i only have a 3037 i should not bother with cams, springs/retainers, fuel return but If i wanted more what turbo would bolt directly on for 550-600? And then its worth doing the above (well idearlly cams now while engine is apart..) if i see a good deal ill go for it, will it get the 3037 more HP or just help it get to its max easier?

Thanks so much guys

 

+100 on this i forgot to tell you that Nat.. you gonn ahave to have the block machined for the HR HD gaskets..

 

These the right head bolts?
HR
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5010

HR Gasket
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=4033

HR Head bolts better than L17 ARP yeah?

 

That kit looks like its made for a Maxima...look at the way the ic is mounted and the exhaust coming out the back

 

I think it looks like the right kit. The IC is mounted kinda like my APS is mounted... just half the size

You can build your own fuel return system off your stock fuel rails. Look up 350ZT on here or boosted performance on my350z.com he built his own. He welded AN fittings on the stock rails and a -6 line would work fine with a areomotive fuel pressure regulator.

You can do that but by the time it's said and done, you're close to the same price.
Pay someone to weld the rails (I'm assuming you can't weld). You might want to do that anyways with the CJM stage 0. I have the stage 1, so I'm not sure on that.
all of the lines
Heat wrap for the lines near the headers
all the fittings
FPR

You might save $100 tops and you wont have a superior product
The fuel pump assembly items and the teflon wrapped fuel lines are nice. I've seen/smelt regular SS lines give off a fuel odor after a while.

At the very least... If you are savvy, you can make a basic kit like the APS. It is not a full fuel return but the pressure will increase with boost