Forced Induction Oil Selection
I have been doing some research regarding oil and more less as long as its synthetic and the right weight mobil,castrol, royal, and other high end synthetics are all very similar. Just don't use synthetic mix or non-sythetic they run warmer = bad.
I've been doing a lot of reading on "bob is the oil guy" and one thing I am seeing is that it really is engine to engine and you can't know anything for sure until you've tried it and gotten some feedback on used oil analysis. They'll either say "why did you put your good cutlery through your engine on the last change 100 000kms ago" or they'll say "the oil held up well to this point. Next try an extra 2000kms on the next change."
The impression I'm gettin is that there is much more to oil for today's engines than what you think. The guys over there get into it bigtime- I'm learning a lot.
I just changed into motul 8100 x-max under the advisement of my build shop. I'll be changing it out pretty early and I have my uoa kit from blackstone. Will advise in due time.
As for what the manufacturer recommends- I think the rules change when you more than double the hp and rebuild the engine.
The impression I'm gettin is that there is much more to oil for today's engines than what you think. The guys over there get into it bigtime- I'm learning a lot.
I just changed into motul 8100 x-max under the advisement of my build shop. I'll be changing it out pretty early and I have my uoa kit from blackstone. Will advise in due time.
As for what the manufacturer recommends- I think the rules change when you more than double the hp and rebuild the engine.
Last edited by Eno; Nov 7, 2011 at 10:04 PM.
It really does vary from engine to engine, and UOA's will be the best tool to see what is working for you. I'll be sending one in later this week, the oil that I put in when I had my blower installed. It's a synthetic called Liquimoly. I'll be replacing that with Shell Rotella T6 5w40, and I will be sending that in for analysis as well after 3000 miles. Yeah, with the thicker oil..my tuner recommended a thicker oil after going FI as it offers better shear protection. I will check back once I get my first UOA back. I was using German Castrol Syntec 0w30 for a very long time when I was NA, and was planning on continuing to use that until I was given the recommendation to switch over to a 40 weight.
I've been doing a lot of reading on "bob is the oil guy" and one thing I am seeing is that it really is engine to engine and you can't know anything for sure until you've tried it and gotten some feedback on used oil analysis. They'll either say "why did you put your good cutlery through your engine on the last change 100 000kms ago" or they'll say "the oil held up well to this point. Next try an extra 2000kms on the next change."
The impression I'm gettin is that there is much more to oil for today's engines than what you think. The guys over there get into it bigtime- I'm learning a lot.
I just changed into motul 8100 x-max under the advisement of my build shop. I'll be changing it out pretty early and I have my uoa kit from blackstone. Will advise in due time.
As for what the manufacturer recommends- I think the rules change when you more than double the hp and rebuild the engine.
The impression I'm gettin is that there is much more to oil for today's engines than what you think. The guys over there get into it bigtime- I'm learning a lot.
I just changed into motul 8100 x-max under the advisement of my build shop. I'll be changing it out pretty early and I have my uoa kit from blackstone. Will advise in due time.
As for what the manufacturer recommends- I think the rules change when you more than double the hp and rebuild the engine.
I've been doing a lot of reading on "bob is the oil guy" and one thing I am seeing is that it really is engine to engine and you can't know anything for sure until you've tried it and gotten some feedback on used oil analysis. They'll either say "why did you put your good cutlery through your engine on the last change 100 000kms ago" or they'll say "the oil held up well to this point. Next try an extra 2000kms on the next change."
The impression I'm gettin is that there is much more to oil for today's engines than what you think. The guys over there get into it bigtime- I'm learning a lot.
I just changed into motul 8100 x-max under the advisement of my build shop. I'll be changing it out pretty early and I have my uoa kit from blackstone. Will advise in due time.
As for what the manufacturer recommends- I think the rules change when you more than double the hp and rebuild the engine.
The impression I'm gettin is that there is much more to oil for today's engines than what you think. The guys over there get into it bigtime- I'm learning a lot.
I just changed into motul 8100 x-max under the advisement of my build shop. I'll be changing it out pretty early and I have my uoa kit from blackstone. Will advise in due time.
As for what the manufacturer recommends- I think the rules change when you more than double the hp and rebuild the engine.
No problem. I'm reassured by this shop if only because I know they stand by their work- so I know it's in their best interest to give me the best oil they can. It's expensive... don't get me wrong- but then again putting twice the rated HP into your engine takes its toll.
I'll pass it on- but it's going to be some time before I get anything sent- and of course longer to get it back.
I'll pass it on- but it's going to be some time before I get anything sent- and of course longer to get it back.
Mobil1 5w40 Turbo diesel truck. Ran it on a whim by recommendation (asked the shop about an acceptable oil I can get 'anywhere', since they only fill with Motul). According to UOA's (6 so far) the M1 TDT beat everything else including Motul. Not cheap by any means but you can get it at AutoZone. It's now my only fill.
Last edited by djamps; Feb 4, 2012 at 09:32 PM.
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