Oil priming advice needed
#1
Oil priming advice needed
Hey drivers,
I am going to turn the key on Thursday or Friday of this week on my build.
Before I fire her up, I need to prime the new engine, turbos, and oil cooler.
I need to know which fuse to pull to ensure that the injectors will not be pulsed.
ECM fuse behind the battery?
Pull the injector harness connector? (that would be way more convenient for me)
My goal is to crank the car for a few seconds until the oil light turns off, then a few more seconds after a short wait. The engine was shelved for a few years so there is probably some dust in there, and I did my best to get every chip out from drilling into the upper pan for returns. You guys know the drill.
I plan to run it for a full temp cycle, then drain the oil and change the filter. Then I can go have some worry free fun. Cheap insurance if you will.
Let me know if one of you knows how to accomplish this safely with no risk of the injectors opening. With my new RFS I could dump a lot of fuel quick so I want to avoid washing the walls of oil. I lost my last engine to low compression so I'm going to be pretty up tight with this one aside from the fact that I am going to be forcing air down its throat against its will.
-Mike
I am going to turn the key on Thursday or Friday of this week on my build.
Before I fire her up, I need to prime the new engine, turbos, and oil cooler.
I need to know which fuse to pull to ensure that the injectors will not be pulsed.
ECM fuse behind the battery?
Pull the injector harness connector? (that would be way more convenient for me)
My goal is to crank the car for a few seconds until the oil light turns off, then a few more seconds after a short wait. The engine was shelved for a few years so there is probably some dust in there, and I did my best to get every chip out from drilling into the upper pan for returns. You guys know the drill.
I plan to run it for a full temp cycle, then drain the oil and change the filter. Then I can go have some worry free fun. Cheap insurance if you will.
Let me know if one of you knows how to accomplish this safely with no risk of the injectors opening. With my new RFS I could dump a lot of fuel quick so I want to avoid washing the walls of oil. I lost my last engine to low compression so I'm going to be pretty up tight with this one aside from the fact that I am going to be forcing air down its throat against its will.
-Mike
#4
I did lol, I take it with a grain of salt when I get a reply on FB. Nobody had a solid answer there though. Just bumped it.
I am thinking I can't really go wrong if I pull the injector harness plug. I believe the knock sensor is on its own connector so I would just be isolating those but I need to double check that one.
Thanks Jersey
I am thinking I can't really go wrong if I pull the injector harness plug. I believe the knock sensor is on its own connector so I would just be isolating those but I need to double check that one.
Thanks Jersey
#6
I'm going to be doing some fuel system testing prior to cranking so I can't do that since I will already have line pressure. I wish I could, I usually do that too.
#7
I'm going to be doing some fuel system testing prior to cranking so I can't do that since I will already have line pressure. I wish I could, I usually do that too.
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#9
Spark or fuel cut?
Wait...........
I'll just contact my tuner.... And have him throw on a no start map on the base-map too. Duh
Last edited by yosip1115; 09-23-2015 at 09:15 PM.
#11
#12
I'm crankin' and crankin' and no oil pressure is building. I filled my oil cooler up to the top and poured some into the oil cooler lines also. No oil up top at the VTC solenoids although the engine started spinning over significantly smoother after a few seconds of cranking. Will I be able to build pressure without it firing up? Is it air locked or something similar? Oil light is still on too.
#13
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
I'm crankin' and crankin' and no oil pressure is building. I filled my oil cooler up to the top and poured some into the oil cooler lines also. No oil up top at the VTC solenoids although the engine started spinning over significantly smoother after a few seconds of cranking. Will I be able to build pressure without it firing up? Is it air locked or something similar? Oil light is still on too.
#14