2005 6MT Vortech SC Build Begins
You will start running into fuel pressure issues the more power you make. I would HIGHLY suggest doing it right the first time and getting a return system. If you decide not to, I would at least do the above. Look into the CJM or AAM fuel return systems.
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 6
From: Allentown PA
I will have to look into this my kit came off a g35 and i havent heard anything about this. Goal is 400hp so we will see im not looking for anything insane this is just a start .
Its not necessary to modify fuel bucket for your HP goals.I made 408 RWHP with just a Walbro 255 LPH pump.
I have an extra bolt you need, upgraded to socket head SS fasteners.
BTW also have a modified intake pipe with 4 bolt flange professionally machined off MAF Housing and Elbow pipe including silicone coupler, upgraded to 1 piece SS pipe. If interested PM me.
I have an extra bolt you need, upgraded to socket head SS fasteners.
BTW also have a modified intake pipe with 4 bolt flange professionally machined off MAF Housing and Elbow pipe including silicone coupler, upgraded to 1 piece SS pipe. If interested PM me.
Momentum suggested you do it for ~400 whp and my tuner asked if I had done it when I got my car tuned as well. Not really trying to make it a debate...It might not be necessary, but its completely free and supposedly give better and more stable fuel pressure, so why not?
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 6
From: Allentown PA
I hear you I actually was gonna do it When I had the pump out because your there already. Just didnt feel like going out getting the drill bit and what not. If I have issues i guess could always do it seemed pretty straight forward.
Drilling large holes in the bottom of the bucket to allow more fuel to the bottom of the pump and stepping up the inlet size of factory FPR to allow more flow as well. If you have a fuel return system I think you're good.
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 6
From: Allentown PA
Well almost got this thing done thankfully. Just in time for this tune next thursday.
Thanks goes to hotrod here is the proper way for the cast iron pipe like he stated.

Cog pulley is definitely tight in there.

Belts run


This pipe is going to be tight

Cold Air Intake should be nice.

Little bend in the 90 Degree but plenty of airflow still
Thanks goes to hotrod here is the proper way for the cast iron pipe like he stated.

Cog pulley is definitely tight in there.

Belts run


This pipe is going to be tight

Cold Air Intake should be nice.

Little bend in the 90 Degree but plenty of airflow still
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 6
From: Allentown PA
Everything is bolted up and tightened. The down pipe from the SC is a pitty to get in but goes in just make sure go from the bottom. Belts are in as well. Hooked up the oil drain line and started filling with oil and half way in started seeing a small leak from the line top. Turns out the line had crack on inside of the female piece. Now have to find myself a new line or something to rig of before weds.
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 221
Likes: 6
From: Allentown PA
When filling the SC with oil you just add the whole 4oz bottle? I put in a little over 3.5oz and its reading on the dipstick but that thing is hard as hell to read. It says to fill with 4oz which is a hole bottle correct? Anyone shed some light on this?
Yea its too damn hard to get an accurate reading. When I drain it, I spray some compressed air into the fill hole to make sure all the old fluid is out and put the whole new bottle in. Never had any problems.






