JWT Twin Turbo kit - best yet?
#1
JWT Twin Turbo kit - best yet?
So I just read a little blurb in the new Sport Compact Car
magazine about the Jim Wolf Technology Twin Turbo kit
coming out for the 350Z/G35.
Apparently, it will not be released until CARB certification
has been obtained. The best parts are:
1. Engine and radiator do not need to be removed for install
2. No modifications to the front bumper neccessary for install
This is great, because it sucks to cut up your stock bumper
to install the front mount intercoolers. Also, the intercooler
placement is much better than the Greddy Twin Turbo kit.
The pictures look amazing:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/TTINFO/ttindex.htm
Unfortunately, the MSRP is $6999! WTF.
magazine about the Jim Wolf Technology Twin Turbo kit
coming out for the 350Z/G35.
Apparently, it will not be released until CARB certification
has been obtained. The best parts are:
1. Engine and radiator do not need to be removed for install
2. No modifications to the front bumper neccessary for install
This is great, because it sucks to cut up your stock bumper
to install the front mount intercoolers. Also, the intercooler
placement is much better than the Greddy Twin Turbo kit.
The pictures look amazing:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/TTINFO/ttindex.htm
Unfortunately, the MSRP is $6999! WTF.
#2
#5
Jwt
Yeah they did say the kit will be shooting for 400bhp which is around 330 to the wheels, but that's because they don't want to blow any engines. Like someone else said, they are looking for reliability. It doesn't mean the turbos can't push past that, they absolutely can. They said they are built for 530hp but not unless you build the motor up first. Then they said you can get a new ecu flash for more power and turn up the boost.
#6
Exactly. As with any turbo kit, you can achieve more horsepower simply
by adding race gas and turning up the boost. When buying a turbo kit
for a naturally aspirated car, you should not be looking at advertised
hp. You should be more concerned with reliability, ease of install and
driveability.
The JWT design of the FMIC's is better than Greddy because of the
placement. They do not block air to the radiator, and they are not
centered behind your stock bumper (thus cutting all airflow to the
FMIC). The Greddy kit was designed for use with the Greddy front
bumper kit. Installing it on the stock bumper will no doubt require
a lot of cutting of stock bumper pieces.
by adding race gas and turning up the boost. When buying a turbo kit
for a naturally aspirated car, you should not be looking at advertised
hp. You should be more concerned with reliability, ease of install and
driveability.
The JWT design of the FMIC's is better than Greddy because of the
placement. They do not block air to the radiator, and they are not
centered behind your stock bumper (thus cutting all airflow to the
FMIC). The Greddy kit was designed for use with the Greddy front
bumper kit. Installing it on the stock bumper will no doubt require
a lot of cutting of stock bumper pieces.
#7
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Originally Posted by JoeyG35
Exactly. As with any turbo kit, you can achieve more horsepower simply
by adding race gas and turning up the boost.
by adding race gas and turning up the boost.
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#8
on a turbo setup, exhaust manifold design is not nearly as critical as it is on a n/a engine. runner length doesn't have to be even, or even close. shorter is better as velocity and temperature are the most important aspects for the pre-turbo side of the exhaust. also, cast iron is much more durable when exposed to the heat cycling that a turbo exhaust manifold is subjected to, that's why the actual turbine housings are typically made of cast iron.
as stated earlier, peak hp is not what to shop for on a turbocharger kit designed for a n/a motor. reliablity, driveability, and completeness are far more important. peak power means absolutely nothing if it's only available for a few hundred rpm.
that kit looks good, and the price really isn't bad. a comprehensive upgrade package for a factory turbocharged car usually runs in the $4k to $6k range.
as stated earlier, peak hp is not what to shop for on a turbocharger kit designed for a n/a motor. reliablity, driveability, and completeness are far more important. peak power means absolutely nothing if it's only available for a few hundred rpm.
that kit looks good, and the price really isn't bad. a comprehensive upgrade package for a factory turbocharged car usually runs in the $4k to $6k range.
#9
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Originally Posted by RussB
on a turbo setup, exhaust manifold design is not nearly as critical as it is on a n/a engine. runner length doesn't have to be even, or even close. shorter is better as velocity and temperature are the most important aspects for the pre-turbo side of the exhaust. also, cast iron is much more durable when exposed to the heat cycling that a turbo exhaust manifold is subjected to, that's why the actual turbine housings are typically made of cast iron.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...=&fpart=1&vc=1
there is a 60hp difference between a log manifold and the full race equal length manifold and you're telling me it doesnt matter?
and the problem with the cast iron manifold is the fact that it has alot of weight on it, its supporting the weight of the turbo, the downpipe pulling down on it, and the heat cycles that cause expansion and contraction, sure it may be more ductile but i rarely see a quality built stainless tubular manifold crack
Last edited by Blackbird V35; 01-21-2005 at 08:33 PM.
#13
Originally Posted by Blackbird V35
and the problem with the cast iron manifold is the fact that it has alot of weight on it, its supporting the weight of the turbo, the downpipe pulling down on it, and the heat cycles that cause expansion and contraction, sure it may be more ductile but i rarely see a quality built stainless tubular manifold crack
As far as the weight of the turbo and perhaps the exhaust system, I don't think the weight of the turbo is much of an issue. Any decent manifold should have no problem supporting that. As far as the exhaust system, well placed exhaust hangers that help carry the weight and allow some flex as the drivetrain shifts is generally enough. If iot becomes that much of an issue a flex pipe or maybe a swage joint might help.
#15
Originally Posted by Blackbird V35
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...=&fpart=1&vc=1
there is a 60hp difference between a log manifold and the full race equal length manifold and you're telling me it doesnt matter?
and the problem with the cast iron manifold is the fact that it has alot of weight on it, its supporting the weight of the turbo, the downpipe pulling down on it, and the heat cycles that cause expansion and contraction, sure it may be more ductile but i rarely see a quality built stainless tubular manifold crack
there is a 60hp difference between a log manifold and the full race equal length manifold and you're telling me it doesnt matter?
and the problem with the cast iron manifold is the fact that it has alot of weight on it, its supporting the weight of the turbo, the downpipe pulling down on it, and the heat cycles that cause expansion and contraction, sure it may be more ductile but i rarely see a quality built stainless tubular manifold crack
also, it is more expensive to design and build a cast exhaust component vs. tubular steel, especially on relatively low production runs. I would assume that JWT had a compelling reason to include a more expensive item in their kit.