Youve got 10 grand what products/setup would you purchase?
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Colorado Springs CO
Youve got 10 grand what products/setup would you purchase?
im curious.. lets say you got 10,000 what setup as far as performance products would you purchase?
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From: So.Cal
Im on similar situation, but actually have about 15K to spend. I had $25K left over from not buying a new M3, and already spent almost 10K on wheels and the Ken Style bodykit installed. So Im thinking 5K for audio/video upgrade, and around 10K for performance upgrade. Considering the HKS supercharger for G35, hoping to be released sometime in February. I like the HKS kit, its complete, all you really need is upgrade your exhaust. From rumors Ive heard, it may also be carb approved, like Stillen stage 2 SC. TT would be nice, but will be alot more than $10K when its all and done.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: San Diego, CA
ok I will bite and be the first to post a message that comes with the territory.
Give it to ME!!!!!
Sorry couldn't resist.
On a serious note. I would tackle the suspension before anything else. TEIN Coils w/EDFC to start then adjustable arms for the camber... etc. Suspension mods always seem to be well spent cash in my book. With all the cars that I have modified it was always the suspension mods that put the biggest grin on my ugly mug.
Give it to ME!!!!!
Sorry couldn't resist.
On a serious note. I would tackle the suspension before anything else. TEIN Coils w/EDFC to start then adjustable arms for the camber... etc. Suspension mods always seem to be well spent cash in my book. With all the cars that I have modified it was always the suspension mods that put the biggest grin on my ugly mug.
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Tempe, AZ.
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
for 15K... you can do a full engine build + APS TT kit.... For 10K, i would do APS TT and still have money for Enkei wheels and tires....
Not that it matters for me. After reading all your stories I'm so terrified of TT's it's not even funny!
Originally Posted by Sinurgy
Yeah YOU could Gurgen but could Joe Schmo actually have all that done for $15k (including install and tuning)?
Not that it matters for me. After reading all your stories I'm so terrified of TT's it's not even funny!
Not that it matters for me. After reading all your stories I'm so terrified of TT's it's not even funny!
You can get the APS for around $7200. Installation of this kit goes so smoothly (it ain't a Greddy), even more so than PE (which fit really well!). So, there are several places that I can think of that will install the kit for around $1500. The Richey/Howard team of TechnoSquare is the best place to go for this IMO.
An engine build should be around $2050-2450 for parts ($800 pistons, $1000 rods, ~$250 misc. parts like gaskets/bearings/etc, $400 for studs is optional) about $3000 for labor ($1500 to pull/reinstall the motor, and maybe another $1000 or so to disassemble/reassemble it, $300 for boring/honing, and $150 for dynamic/static balancing). Now, yes, I did pay less than the above figures for labor, but not drastically so; the above figures should be attainable at any fair shop... The only one I have found so far to be fair AND very very very good/experienced is, to be honest, TechnoSquare (Howard/Richey). If you call these **** shops like SP Engineering, they will quote you 100 hours to install a TT kit; I promise you, 70 hours of that time must be for their lunch/hangout sessions. I have witnessed by car being taken apart several times now... it simply does not take that long if oyu really knowwhat you are doing, period; would you want to take your car to anyone less quaified.
Let's add it all up:
APS TT kit only: $8700 (get the kit from out of state so you won't pay tax; there is not tax on labor). So, ok, there maybe a $150-200 shipping charge. Let's make it $8900
Engine build: $5050-5450 (again, you can avoid tax here by buying from out of state; possible total shipping costs for the three major shipments of pistons/rods/studs ~ $70-90)
Custom retuning of the unichip should be no more than 1-2 hours on a proper load-based dyno at the hands of an experienced Unichip tuner; so, say, $250-300. the 1-2 hour number comes from Peter of APS himself. You can PM him/any one else here or on the Z forums that has done this with a link of this thread and ask if my estimates are reasonable. I would be the VERY first to admit being too liberal with the estimates if that's the case. It's just ha tI honeslty think that these ARE the numbers. Now, if oyu want to go to some shop that does "race cars" (this is a common type of referral that I was hearing from people when i was first getting into this, and it 8 out of 10 times meant that they have not done this engine and only have general experience, which is not bad) and ask them what it will cost, they will not shy away from quoting you a number exceeding the above by 30-50%. But, I digress somewhat...
So let's look at the TOTAL: from $14,200 (that's $8900+5050+250) to $14,650
Now... if this was any other kit... i would say you would have to spend another, say, $625-$1250 + labor ($250 BOV, $400-500 boost controller, $75-500 for fuel system upgrades; the applicable custom labor/fabrication I'd say is in the neighborhood of $150+100+150=$400) on top of the above numebrs just ot make it right. AND, this does not even include tuning/engine management... and if you know anything about it you'd know that it's neither cheap nor unimportant. So add another $125-1200 ($125-~400 for dyno tuning at Church Automotive, and if you get the PE, the cost of the EM computer itself, $300 for e-manage or about $800 for Unichip) for that.
The beauty of APS is you REALLY ARE all done when you get it, not to mention the quality of the components and a very very good tune done on the more superior (IMO, to e-manage) Unichip. Yes, you really ARE all done. Of course, if you do the built forged internals, then, yes you'll have to spend the above said amount for tuning to retune the unichip for the lower compression/higher boost setup.
Now, I do acknowledge that there are always X factors/unexpected expenses. In my case, they were HUGE because of my unfortunate choice of engine builder, really, really bad luck, and, the second time around, tuning problems. But, if you do get it all right the first time, which i do not mind helping people with, and make the right choices, you can get away with not spending much more than this. Also, there are gauges and things, which do not have to cost more than $100-300 (boost gauge is really all that is technically required... but of course you can go crazy with any project).
HTH
G
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Originally Posted by GurgenPB
I meant this in all seriousness... Hmm... let's look (not sure myself now...)
You can get the APS for around $7200. Installation of this kit goes so smoothly (it ain't a Greddy), even more so than PE (which fit really well!). So, there are several places that I can think of that will install the kit for around $1500. The Richey/Howard team of TechnoSquare is the best place to go for this IMO.
An engine build should be around $2050-2450 for parts ($800 pistons, $1000 rods, ~$250 misc. parts like gaskets/bearings/etc, $400 for studs is optional) about $3000 for labor ($1500 to pull/reinstall the motor, and maybe another $1000 or so to disassemble/reassemble it, $300 for boring/honing, and $150 for dynamic/static balancing). Now, yes, I did pay less than the above figures for labor, but not drastically so; the above figures should be attainable at any fair shop... The only one I have found so far to be fair AND very very very good/experienced is, to be honest, TechnoSquare (Howard/Richey). If you call these **** shops like SP Engineering, they will quote you 100 hours to install a TT kit; I promise you, 70 hours of that time must be for their lunch/hangout sessions. I have witnessed by car being taken apart several times now... it simply does not take that long if oyu really knowwhat you are doing, period; would you want to take your car to anyone less quaified.
Let's add it all up:
APS TT kit only: $8700 (get the kit from out of state so you won't pay tax; there is not tax on labor). So, ok, there maybe a $150-200 shipping charge. Let's make it $8900
Engine build: $5050-5450 (again, you can avoid tax here by buying from out of state; possible total shipping costs for the three major shipments of pistons/rods/studs ~ $70-90)
Custom retuning of the unichip should be no more than 1-2 hours on a proper load-based dyno at the hands of an experienced Unichip tuner; so, say, $250-300. the 1-2 hour number comes from Peter of APS himself. You can PM him/any one else here or on the Z forums that has done this with a link of this thread and ask if my estimates are reasonable. I would be the VERY first to admit being too liberal with the estimates if that's the case. It's just ha tI honeslty think that these ARE the numbers. Now, if oyu want to go to some shop that does "race cars" (this is a common type of referral that I was hearing from people when i was first getting into this, and it 8 out of 10 times meant that they have not done this engine and only have general experience, which is not bad) and ask them what it will cost, they will not shy away from quoting you a number exceeding the above by 30-50%. But, I digress somewhat...
So let's look at the TOTAL: from $14,200 (that's $8900+5050+250) to $14,650
Now... if this was any other kit... i would say you would have to spend another, say, $625-$1250 + labor ($250 BOV, $400-500 boost controller, $75-500 for fuel system upgrades; the applicable custom labor/fabrication I'd say is in the neighborhood of $150+100+150=$400) on top of the above numebrs just ot make it right. AND, this does not even include tuning/engine management... and if you know anything about it you'd know that it's neither cheap nor unimportant. So add another $125-1200 ($125-~400 for dyno tuning at Church Automotive, and if you get the PE, the cost of the EM computer itself, $300 for e-manage or about $800 for Unichip) for that.
The beauty of APS is you REALLY ARE all done when you get it, not to mention the quality of the components and a very very good tune done on the more superior (IMO, to e-manage) Unichip. Yes, you really ARE all done. Of course, if you do the built forged internals, then, yes you'll have to spend the above said amount for tuning to retune the unichip for the lower compression/higher boost setup.
Now, I do acknowledge that there are always X factors/unexpected expenses. In my case, they were HUGE because of my unfortunate choice of engine builder, really, really bad luck, and, the second time around, tuning problems. But, if you do get it all right the first time, which i do not mind helping people with, and make the right choices, you can get away with not spending much more than this. Also, there are gauges and things, which do not have to cost more than $100-300 (boost gauge is really all that is technically required... but of course you can go crazy with any project).
HTH
G
You can get the APS for around $7200. Installation of this kit goes so smoothly (it ain't a Greddy), even more so than PE (which fit really well!). So, there are several places that I can think of that will install the kit for around $1500. The Richey/Howard team of TechnoSquare is the best place to go for this IMO.
An engine build should be around $2050-2450 for parts ($800 pistons, $1000 rods, ~$250 misc. parts like gaskets/bearings/etc, $400 for studs is optional) about $3000 for labor ($1500 to pull/reinstall the motor, and maybe another $1000 or so to disassemble/reassemble it, $300 for boring/honing, and $150 for dynamic/static balancing). Now, yes, I did pay less than the above figures for labor, but not drastically so; the above figures should be attainable at any fair shop... The only one I have found so far to be fair AND very very very good/experienced is, to be honest, TechnoSquare (Howard/Richey). If you call these **** shops like SP Engineering, they will quote you 100 hours to install a TT kit; I promise you, 70 hours of that time must be for their lunch/hangout sessions. I have witnessed by car being taken apart several times now... it simply does not take that long if oyu really knowwhat you are doing, period; would you want to take your car to anyone less quaified.
Let's add it all up:
APS TT kit only: $8700 (get the kit from out of state so you won't pay tax; there is not tax on labor). So, ok, there maybe a $150-200 shipping charge. Let's make it $8900
Engine build: $5050-5450 (again, you can avoid tax here by buying from out of state; possible total shipping costs for the three major shipments of pistons/rods/studs ~ $70-90)
Custom retuning of the unichip should be no more than 1-2 hours on a proper load-based dyno at the hands of an experienced Unichip tuner; so, say, $250-300. the 1-2 hour number comes from Peter of APS himself. You can PM him/any one else here or on the Z forums that has done this with a link of this thread and ask if my estimates are reasonable. I would be the VERY first to admit being too liberal with the estimates if that's the case. It's just ha tI honeslty think that these ARE the numbers. Now, if oyu want to go to some shop that does "race cars" (this is a common type of referral that I was hearing from people when i was first getting into this, and it 8 out of 10 times meant that they have not done this engine and only have general experience, which is not bad) and ask them what it will cost, they will not shy away from quoting you a number exceeding the above by 30-50%. But, I digress somewhat...
So let's look at the TOTAL: from $14,200 (that's $8900+5050+250) to $14,650
Now... if this was any other kit... i would say you would have to spend another, say, $625-$1250 + labor ($250 BOV, $400-500 boost controller, $75-500 for fuel system upgrades; the applicable custom labor/fabrication I'd say is in the neighborhood of $150+100+150=$400) on top of the above numebrs just ot make it right. AND, this does not even include tuning/engine management... and if you know anything about it you'd know that it's neither cheap nor unimportant. So add another $125-1200 ($125-~400 for dyno tuning at Church Automotive, and if you get the PE, the cost of the EM computer itself, $300 for e-manage or about $800 for Unichip) for that.
The beauty of APS is you REALLY ARE all done when you get it, not to mention the quality of the components and a very very good tune done on the more superior (IMO, to e-manage) Unichip. Yes, you really ARE all done. Of course, if you do the built forged internals, then, yes you'll have to spend the above said amount for tuning to retune the unichip for the lower compression/higher boost setup.
Now, I do acknowledge that there are always X factors/unexpected expenses. In my case, they were HUGE because of my unfortunate choice of engine builder, really, really bad luck, and, the second time around, tuning problems. But, if you do get it all right the first time, which i do not mind helping people with, and make the right choices, you can get away with not spending much more than this. Also, there are gauges and things, which do not have to cost more than $100-300 (boost gauge is really all that is technically required... but of course you can go crazy with any project).
HTH
G
Sorry Gurgen, I hope you prove me wrong, very wrong.
Originally Posted by neffster
...and when that's all said and done and you head out to your local 1/4 mile track to test out this setup, I'd be surprised if you didn't have MAJOR traction issues and still run the times of a normal Vortec S/C set up for 1/2 to 1/3 the price.
Sorry Gurgen, I hope you prove me wrong, very wrong.
Sorry Gurgen, I hope you prove me wrong, very wrong.
Besides, it DOES still remain to be seen... and no, you won't run the same times as a Vortech on a standard engine.
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,685
Likes: 1
From: Colorado Springs CO
this sounds like what i want to do.. now the problem is i live in DE and i have no idea wich shops around here will be up to the task.. do you have to do the rebuild or is this just an option with it.. can you run this kit just as is? also.. do you think this is a good idea to be putting on a brand new car that still has warranty or should i just wait on this all together?.. maybe i should buy a used 03 g35 or something.. what do you guys think?