Jasper - U can use either a PDA or a laptop to program the Maximizer & once U get it set the way that U want it, it'll hold those settings until U change them. I have the AEM wideband gauge in my A-pillar pod ( along w/an electric nitrous pressure gauge & a boost/vacuum gauge ( for the upcoming Vortech!! )). Yes, I tapped into the AEM O2 sensor feed for the NX unit to monitor the AFR while squeezing. I have used my laptop to "play" with the system & it DOES S/D the injection when I get to an AFR of 13.2 ( my choice ).
I bought an Ultra Safeguard but it was Gurgen's old one that had the coil pack upgrade already done to it so I knew it would be OK for my G. I've recently purchased the J&S knock monitor gauge #2001 which John has lowered the price on to $99. I'll have to fabricate a fiberglass enclosure in which to mount it ( hey, I'm a stereo guy so that'll be easy ) but I want to be able to visually insure that timing is being pulled or even if there's room for more nitrous!!

ABG - I really don't know how much timing the factory ECU can pull but I'd GUESS that it could handle a 75 hp shot. Maybe some of the guys with similar setups can answer that one for ya!

 

It has more to do with too much torque! As you probably know, horsepower is a function of torque. It is a derived number related to torque applied at a specific rpm.

HP = (TQ X RPM) / (5252)

Look at every hp/tq graph. The horsepower and torque are alsways equal to eachother at 5252 RPMs.

Since nitrous systems add a constant (relatively) amount of HP across the entire rpm band, the lower you activate the "shot", the greater the torque increase.

Example: 100 HP Shot
Torque added at rpm:

6000 rpm = 87.53 ft-lb
5000 rpm = 105.04 ft-lb
4000 rpm = 131.3 ft-lb
3000 rpm = 175.06 ft-lb
2000 rpm = 262.6 ft-lb
1500 rpm = 350.13 ft-lb
1000 rpm = 525.2 ft-lb!!!!!

I think you can see why the nitrous companies don't want you spraying below 2000 rpm. The torque increase starts increasing rather rapidly.

Another thing you'll find is that alot of experienced nitrous drivers shift at alower rpm (while spraying) than they would when running naturally aspirated. This is beacuse of the torque advantage of nitrous.

 

soo much good info.. i think i found my next mod!

 

good post as i just got a freebie 50shot dry set up from my little bro........some of you will have pm's....anyone want to assit w/some IN-OUT double-doubles in the near future around Walnut/D-Bar area?

 

What set ups are you all running ???? Are you runnin single fogger wet set ups or dry?

Reson being is I hope your not running single fogger wet set ups. Single fogger wet set ups are the most dangerous of all nitrous set ups even thou most people do not belive this. The reson being is simple .... if you spray just nitrous with a single jet that is tapped in to the intake then the nitrous mixes with the air and is able to flow through the intake manifold and everything is good, however when you spray both nitrous and fuel into the intake (which is what a wet set up dose) the fuel has a tendency to stick to the walls of the intake and the intake manifold (remember that those are not designed to flow fluids, they are just designed to flow air) and this can cause the system to lean out and everyone kows what happens when you run lean. The absolute safest nitrous set up is a direct port wet system as it injects the nitrous and fuel directly into the motor, however they are 1) costly and 2) more difficult to install. The best bet is to run a single fogger dry set up and to make sure to tap the nozzel about 6" behind the air filter. This then allows the air and nitrous plenty of time to mix before going into the intake manifold and cyl. Now I'm sure there will be people that disagree with me on this, but I had done a ton of homework on the subject and taked with several different companies on the subject before running nitrous on my civic that I had in high school. On the car I ran a 80hp shot, single fiogger dry set up on the stock 1.6L Single cam motor. I retarded the timing a few degrees and ran colder plugs. All said and done I ran nitrous on that car for 30,000 miles going though about almost a tank a week (the **** is addictiing) and NEVER had any problems with the car.

The best nitrous kits out currently are Venom's computer controled kits. They are all single fogger dry set ups but the add a lot of features for safety.

Check them out:

VCN-2000 (the KING of all nitrous kits)

http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/html/v2000.cfm

VCN-1000 (not as advanced but still better then most other kits)

http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/html/v1000.cfm

I didnt see the 305z or G35 on their list but I bet they have a kit for it. Also if you live in So Cal and and they dont have a kit for the G35/350Z I bet you could get a free kit if you let them use your car for testing.

 

how do your zex nitrous kit solenoids work with the nx maximizer did you need to do anything? i just purchased this same setup and was wondering how you interfaced the two. thanks