Booooz while I'm comfortable using a 360 whp car as a daily driver, 600 whp is a totally different story.

With that kind of power he's going to need a fully built and tuned engine. If there is no Unichip authorized tuner near you it's a good idea to dump the Unichip as the engine management system and to go with something else. Something that someone in your area can tune. Something with that type of power is going to need constant maintenance and easy access in the case of repairs.

I hope that he's willing to drop something in the ballpark of $22k to $25k because I think that's the general amount of money to do something like this with the greatest margin of safety.

 

If you need to drive somewere every day, "make sure" you have a backup...

I wouldn't recommend it as your only ride.
It "can" be made reliable , but it will never , ever, ever be as solid as OEM.

BTW I expect to drive my G daily (~100miles) at ~550rwhp. But I also have 2 other rides and I ahve a mechnics background.

I have spent alot of $ and research to make a reliable mid power Long block. Hope I did my homework.

 

Anything over 500whp even with a built motor is not that reliable. They are several guys on my350z eperiencing cooling issues at high boost levels. I am going to keep mine no higher than 12psi on my new motor and I am getting a water injection kit.

 

If the issue is reliability, you've got MRC Motorsports like afr0puff mentioned up in Spotswood, and you also have Car V2 in Wilmington that has a 650hp Greddy based 350Z. Between those two shops, there's a lot of knowledge and experience and they'll be able to do the necessary work in helping to keep the car reliable. I'll be getting the work done at one of those two shops next for myself.

My question is what about the winter and other times of bad weather? Unless you get a boost controller or some other set up so that you can neuter your G every time the weather goes foul, you're not going to want to try and wrangle 400whp in the snow or heavy rain. Reliability aside, the practicality of it becomes a bigger sticking point. Its akin to having a RWD 911 or Z06 as your daily driver. Some days you'll just need to leave it in the garage and be stuck if you don't have another car!

 

I have to say, well put Steve. Ive been turbo charged for over a year now. I was one of the very first people to get it and I havnt had any major problems(knock on wood) Ive driven about 25000 k miles and my engine is still running strong. I dynod at 410.8 HP @ wheels on 7.2 psi. Its great power in my opinion but honestly though, power is addictive. You cant ever have enough. If you have a daily driver that even pushes 600HP, eventually your gonna get used to it and ur gonna want more. Im at 400+ and I already want MORE!!! haha I would say to really think it over. Your dealing with A LOTTTTA money. Yes its a great privalege. Think about this one man very hard. Good luck but watever you decide, do it together and dont have ANY REGRETS LATER!! good luck again!

 

One failiure was most likely due to detonation as a result of the ECU adding too much timng at high RPM.
The other is at sustained high speed, not stop and go boosted street driving.

I think it is premature to make a blanket statement that 500rwhp is a "reliability limit". A well tuned , well cooled 550rwhp can be more reliaible than a half assed tuned 500rwhp. I am all for playing it safe, but I think some people are a little to skittish to jump to conclusions.

But as stated before adding any form of FI to an OEM NA engine will most definately shorten it's life span by some measurable amount and increase the risk of catastrophic failure.

For example if a fuel pump fails on the OEM , it dies, you replace it and your back on the road ,no harm no foul. With aftermarket FI on pump gas you loose the fuel pump while under boost , you will most likely blow the bottom end. I am a big fan of WI, but it won't save your butt in this situation.

I wouldn't expect a 500+rwhp rig to exceed 100k mile flawlwssly , but with the OEM it should be expected with no problem whatsover.

If someone can't afford a second car as a fallback and needs to drive every day , then they really shouldn't be scrapping beans together for an aftermarket FI car.

IMO

 

With the OEM VDC and TC on ,it's not a big issue, It'll keep your butt on the road.

 

Agreed, but I would not consider an SGP built and tuned car half assed. I recall phunk having cooling issues beyond 12psi and I would hardly call anything he does half *** either.

 

Boooz **** a TT in the g35. Paranormal should sell his G and buy a White X5, just put some TV's in it get a system and some rims and he'd be PIMP. HAHAHAH Kelly yes we know each other....

Sorry for going off topic. Just found boozer on here now lookin at pics...

Continue on with topic at hand!

 

wait for better engine management choices... a high compression boosted motor running on pump gas is a very, very delicate combination to work with... if you factor changes in weather, changes in pump gas quality, changes in boost (from atmospheric changes), etc. there are many scenarios that "daily driving" will present to your car... whether or not you come out of each of these encounters "intact" depends on one thing alone: tuning... This is one of the key advantages that a boosted OEM vehicle has -- the ECU understands boost and compensates for it automatically in terms of fueling and ignition advance...

Trust me, I have a 750+ hp turbo car sitting in my garage that hasn't required a single bit of maintainence in 3 years other than oil changes... However, i run 110 octane gas 24/7 and I have a fully programmable standalone ECU running the show... therefore I can pretty much guarantee that conditions are right... When it comes to my G, I won't even think about adding boost until I have that same level of control...

the bottom line is, Jimmy, you are 100% right, it can live IF it's tuned right... but at the moment, with the options that G owners have, that's a very, very big IF in my opinion...

 

Phunks cooling iissue appears to be head gasket seepage. It has been speculated to be a result of less than perfect sleeve decking after the AEBS sleeve install. So his builder may not be half assed , but may have had a slight lapse in judgment.

 

maybe I am over reacting but I am going to keep the boost no higher than 12psi and sit back as more guys build their motors to see what happens. I am not interested in spending any more cheese or being without a car for another 3 months.

 

there is alot of good pionts but FI= drama no matter how you slice it. from my turbo prelude to my s/c g there is allways something you leak, blow or pop off that in the end makes you not want to drive you car..

but do it just so you can say you did it.

 

So.. who here actually has the APS single turbo kit?? What kind of gas mileage do you get?

 

I'm getting it, I got in on the Z group buy. It should arrive sometime around mid July. I will have it installed around the same time and give my review.