Forced Induction Discussion of turbos , superchargers , and nitrous upgrades on the G35

Water wetter (found this on my350z.com)

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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 06:57 AM
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Water wetter (found this on my350z.com)

water wetter apparently can be found at most automotive shops and will run in the neighborhood of $7 a bottle.

Watch the demo, looks like something I'm going to get for sure.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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I use it on my 7 to keep it cool. I also lower the coolant concentration in summer.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by neffster
water wetter apparently can be found at most automotive shops and will run in the neighborhood of $7 a bottle.

Watch the demo, looks like something I'm going to get for sure.
Might as well pick up some of that Redline oil go to along with tht Water water too. That's some good oil!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 10:20 AM
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I haven't seen a big decrease in temps in the G but my streetbike went down between 5-7 degrees. Can't hurt. To work best you need to have at least 50% water in the system.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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seems like a good product
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by djniknala
I haven't seen a big decrease in temps in the G but my streetbike went down between 5-7 degrees. Can't hurt. To work best you need to have at least 50% water in the system.
How does the G come from the factory? 50-50?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 11:05 AM
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That is a good question. I drained my coolant and put it in so I really have no idea. Anyone? Where's q45tech when you need him!
Originally Posted by neffster
How does the G come from the factory? 50-50?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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Doesn't a hotter engine run more efficiently provided the integrity of materials aren't compromised? I'm thinking about parasitic losses from friction and heat transfer here. I can see how having a cooler intake charge might give you power though.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 12:47 PM
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Anyone who races motorcycles (roadrace) is required to run Water Wetter. No antifreeze is allowed. My bike actually my bike runs cooler with a 50/50 mix of anti freeze/ water than it does with the watter wetter. Also onething you guys might want to consider is water wetter leaves a nasty film on the radiator and after a while will hurt you cooling situation. All is this is in regaurds to roadrace motoercycles so take it for what it is worth. Just thought it might help before you run out and buy a case of this stuff. It has been out for years.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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with the OEM coolant in my G already, how much Water Wetter are you supposed to put in?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 01:36 PM
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I wouldn't waste the money neff.. go water injection if you want some real positive gains from water.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by G2G
Anyone who races motorcycles (roadrace) is required to run Water Wetter. No antifreeze is allowed. My bike actually my bike runs cooler with a 50/50 mix of anti freeze/ water than it does with the watter wetter. Also onething you guys might want to consider is water wetter leaves a nasty film on the radiator and after a while will hurt you cooling situation. All is this is in regaurds to roadrace motoercycles so take it for what it is worth. Just thought it might help before you run out and buy a case of this stuff. It has been out for years.
I agree with the film part. There are Supra owners that swear by the stuff and others who swear against it. It seems to have built up this type of gum-like material in some radiators or something. If the temps you drive now are fine and you don't see any indication of overheating, I'd stick to just the 50/50...
 
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 12:16 AM
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In the heat of the summer my bike runs a good bit cooler with water and water wetter than water/antifreeze. Just my experience. NESBA rules only allow water and water wetter. Some of the tracks in the SE also will allow "engine ice." Don't know how it would work in a car.
Originally Posted by G2G
Anyone who races motorcycles (roadrace) is required to run Water Wetter. No antifreeze is allowed. My bike actually my bike runs cooler with a 50/50 mix of anti freeze/ water than it does with the watter wetter. Also onething you guys might want to consider is water wetter leaves a nasty film on the radiator and after a while will hurt you cooling situation. All is this is in regaurds to roadrace motoercycles so take it for what it is worth. Just thought it might help before you run out and buy a case of this stuff. It has been out for years.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 07:08 AM
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If wetter water works, it works by increasing the heat transfer from the cylinder heads to the coolant......thus making the coolant hotter at least going into radiator.

The purpose of using less antifreeze with water is to improve the heat transfer also! Just make sure you have enough anticorrosion additives in the mixture.
Regular AF as bottled ASSUMES you will be running 50/50 so at less ratio, you will be short of additives..........works ok for a short time until they deplete themselves........Annual flushes/changes often required with lower AF ratio.

A simple trick is to drain rad [~~4 quarts and refill with 100% distilled water for summer April/May, then in November drain ~~4 quarts again and replace with 4 quarts of 100% AF [non diluted].......check the resulting mathematcal ratio starting with 50/50.

That way you always have at least 4 quarts of brand new AF [with brand new additives each year].................NEVER mix brands even OAT technologies as strange chemical reactions can occur with possible different additive formulae.

The real question is what is cylinder head temperature not what is coolant temperature as long as it doesn't exceed 225F [aluminum heads are very sensitive and expensive to replace].
 
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 12:09 PM
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That's what I was looking for. Q45tech to the rescue!
Originally Posted by Q45tech
If wetter water works, it works by increasing the heat transfer from the cylinder heads to the coolant......thus making the coolant hotter at least going into radiator.

The purpose of using less antifreeze with water is to improve the heat transfer also! Just make sure you have enough anticorrosion additives in the mixture.
Regular AF as bottled ASSUMES you will be running 50/50 so at less ratio, you will be short of additives..........works ok for a short time until they deplete themselves........Annual flushes/changes often required with lower AF ratio.

A simple trick is to drain rad [~~4 quarts and refill with 100% distilled water for summer April/May, then in November drain ~~4 quarts again and replace with 4 quarts of 100% AF [non diluted].......check the resulting mathematcal ratio starting with 50/50.

That way you always have at least 4 quarts of brand new AF [with brand new additives each year].................NEVER mix brands even OAT technologies as strange chemical reactions can occur with possible different additive formulae.

The real question is what is cylinder head temperature not what is coolant temperature as long as it doesn't exceed 225F [aluminum heads are very sensitive and expensive to replace].
 
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