Vortech Belt tightening question
#1
Vortech Belt tightening question
OK, it's time. I know that that this is a three step process...
1. losoen the tensioner pulley
2. tighten the screw on the bottom of the tensioner pulley (turn clockwise from the bottom)
3. tighten the tensioner pulley back up
... but there are some things that I don't know.
1. what is the torque value on the tensioner pulley?
2. is there a pic of the tensioner pulley? (I was shown which pulley it was at CP Racing, but I'd love a pic to make 100% sure I'm loosening the right one).
3. how tight is tight enough? Isn't 45-90 degree belt rotation ideal?
1. losoen the tensioner pulley
2. tighten the screw on the bottom of the tensioner pulley (turn clockwise from the bottom)
3. tighten the tensioner pulley back up
... but there are some things that I don't know.
1. what is the torque value on the tensioner pulley?
2. is there a pic of the tensioner pulley? (I was shown which pulley it was at CP Racing, but I'd love a pic to make 100% sure I'm loosening the right one).
3. how tight is tight enough? Isn't 45-90 degree belt rotation ideal?
#2
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From: florida
Originally Posted by neffster
OK, it's time. I know that that this is a three step process...
1. losoen the tensioner pulley
2. tighten the screw on the bottom of the tensioner pulley (turn clockwise from the bottom)
3. tighten the tensioner pulley back up
... but there are some things that I don't know.
1. what is the torque value on the tensioner pulley?
2. is there a pic of the tensioner pulley? (I was shown which pulley it was at CP Racing, but I'd love a pic to make 100% sure I'm loosening the right one).
3. how tight is tight enough? Isn't 45-90 degree belt rotation ideal?
1. losoen the tensioner pulley
2. tighten the screw on the bottom of the tensioner pulley (turn clockwise from the bottom)
3. tighten the tensioner pulley back up
... but there are some things that I don't know.
1. what is the torque value on the tensioner pulley?
2. is there a pic of the tensioner pulley? (I was shown which pulley it was at CP Racing, but I'd love a pic to make 100% sure I'm loosening the right one).
3. how tight is tight enough? Isn't 45-90 degree belt rotation ideal?
1. The torque value is as tight as you can get it.. ha, jk. It really doesn't have a value because of it's design; once it gets to a certain point, you will know and you won't be able to tighten it anymore. At this point it is too tight, from what I am told, and it will continue to stretch the belt.
2. Pictures later.. It's easy to tell because the nut on the bolt has orange grease on it.
3. You just have to do it by feel to tell you the truth, I have not found anyone with specs or numbers. Tighten the bolt pretty tight and then feel the belt. You know what it should feel like from when you picked up the car, that's your benchmark.
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From: Council Bluffs Ia.
At the longest stretch of serp belt you should only have less than 1/2 inch of play by pushing down on it . The nut on the pulley shouldnt be tightened to tight ...Ive heard only 25lb's of trq. Basicly just dont tighten it so you cant turn it any more but tight enough not to came loose . I forgot to tighten it one day and the pulley fell off . Lucky I was a block away from home .
#5
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From: florida
Blew a damn coupler off tonight.. could have found my boost leak I guess if the coupler popped off. It bent the damn worm clamp at the same time so I couldn't even fix it.
Posting pictures at 8am (12 hour delay when couplers blow).
Got my gauge pod, will try to grab a picture at lunch tomorrow, if not I'll get some tomorrow night - it looks great after 3 weeks!
Posting pictures at 8am (12 hour delay when couplers blow).
Got my gauge pod, will try to grab a picture at lunch tomorrow, if not I'll get some tomorrow night - it looks great after 3 weeks!
#6
7:50am and sitting tight. I plan on tightening the tensioner pulley today around 3pm. I am also going to call Vortech and verifying the 25 ft. lb. number booger.
Thanks guys.
edit: Booger, you are/were spot on. Straight off of Vortech's FAQ website...
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support/faq.html#47
47. How tight should I tighten the Vortech supercharger retaining bolt?
About 25-30 ft./lbs is suggested for the retaining bolt. It is also recommended that a small amount of blue Loctite be applied to the threads prior to inserting the bolt in the input shaft and apply a small amount of anti-seize on the input shaft and key before installing the supercharger pulley.
Thanks guys.
edit: Booger, you are/were spot on. Straight off of Vortech's FAQ website...
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/support/faq.html#47
47. How tight should I tighten the Vortech supercharger retaining bolt?
About 25-30 ft./lbs is suggested for the retaining bolt. It is also recommended that a small amount of blue Loctite be applied to the threads prior to inserting the bolt in the input shaft and apply a small amount of anti-seize on the input shaft and key before installing the supercharger pulley.
Last edited by neffster; 08-31-2005 at 08:05 AM.
#7
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From: florida
Here is your DIY:
Close up view of 14mm wrench facing the nut/bolt:
14mm wrench on the nut/bolt:
A little further away so you know exactly which pulley you are working on:
Just loosen this until the pulley can move back and forth, there is no need to take it all the way out or make it incredibly loose.
Moving under the car, I lined up my splash pan wrong and my drill died at the same time; but I trucked right on through with some wire cutters and eventually got the hole in the right place. Some people say that you only need a small hole, and that is correct, however it is not an easy task to get a 12mm socket up to the bolt, let alone when you can't exactly see much because you made a small hole. Obviously mine is a little overkill, but I outlined the area that would be perfect for cutting and accessing.
Usually I take a lot more pride in doing something of this nature, but I guess because this was under the car and I had already messed it up, I just kept going. I took my pan off to cut it, easiest and safest way. You only have to remove 22 bolts I think and 1 clip (3 bolts on each side for the chin spoiler, and the rest can stay on because it attached to the pan), it is much easier for you because a row of bolts were hidden behind my ings+1 lip.
And last but not least, the bolt you need to tighten to get the belt tight:
You will only be able to tighten it so much before it feels like you would break the bolt head off if you go any further, you have gone too far if you get to this point and can back it out a couple turns. The best advice I can offer is just to tighten the bolt a good amount, until you can feel it getting much more difficult to tighten and then check the belt up top. As mentioned before it is a 12mm bolt and you will need a long extension (about 8" of extension to make it comfortable to move the socket wrench around).
Just as a last note, another good thing about having the whole bigger is that if your bolt likes to grab the 12mm socket like mine does, you can look around and easily knock it loose with the extension instead of having to shoot in the dark with a small hole. Also, if the socket is stuck and falls, it should fall through the hole you made and not just fall on the pan, lost until you remove the whole pan again!
Don't forget to tighten your pulley back down up top after you are done, nice and hand tight, don't go crazy.
Hopefully this helps, let me know if you need anything else.
Close up view of 14mm wrench facing the nut/bolt:
14mm wrench on the nut/bolt:
A little further away so you know exactly which pulley you are working on:
Just loosen this until the pulley can move back and forth, there is no need to take it all the way out or make it incredibly loose.
Moving under the car, I lined up my splash pan wrong and my drill died at the same time; but I trucked right on through with some wire cutters and eventually got the hole in the right place. Some people say that you only need a small hole, and that is correct, however it is not an easy task to get a 12mm socket up to the bolt, let alone when you can't exactly see much because you made a small hole. Obviously mine is a little overkill, but I outlined the area that would be perfect for cutting and accessing.
Usually I take a lot more pride in doing something of this nature, but I guess because this was under the car and I had already messed it up, I just kept going. I took my pan off to cut it, easiest and safest way. You only have to remove 22 bolts I think and 1 clip (3 bolts on each side for the chin spoiler, and the rest can stay on because it attached to the pan), it is much easier for you because a row of bolts were hidden behind my ings+1 lip.
And last but not least, the bolt you need to tighten to get the belt tight:
You will only be able to tighten it so much before it feels like you would break the bolt head off if you go any further, you have gone too far if you get to this point and can back it out a couple turns. The best advice I can offer is just to tighten the bolt a good amount, until you can feel it getting much more difficult to tighten and then check the belt up top. As mentioned before it is a 12mm bolt and you will need a long extension (about 8" of extension to make it comfortable to move the socket wrench around).
Just as a last note, another good thing about having the whole bigger is that if your bolt likes to grab the 12mm socket like mine does, you can look around and easily knock it loose with the extension instead of having to shoot in the dark with a small hole. Also, if the socket is stuck and falls, it should fall through the hole you made and not just fall on the pan, lost until you remove the whole pan again!
Don't forget to tighten your pulley back down up top after you are done, nice and hand tight, don't go crazy.
Hopefully this helps, let me know if you need anything else.
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#10
Todd,
I copied this out of the factory maint manual for ya.....26ft-lb for the bolt
ALTERNATOR AND POWER STEERING OIL PUMP BELT
1. Remove undercover with power tool.
2. Loosen idler pulley lock nut (A) and adjust tension by turning
adjusting bolt (B).
For specified belt tension, refer to MA-11, "Checking Drive
Belts" .
3. Tighten nut (A).
: 34.8 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 26 ft-lb)
Oh...and TurboMax......there are TWO belts!!! lol
I copied this out of the factory maint manual for ya.....26ft-lb for the bolt
ALTERNATOR AND POWER STEERING OIL PUMP BELT
1. Remove undercover with power tool.
2. Loosen idler pulley lock nut (A) and adjust tension by turning
adjusting bolt (B).
For specified belt tension, refer to MA-11, "Checking Drive
Belts" .
3. Tighten nut (A).
: 34.8 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 26 ft-lb)
Oh...and TurboMax......there are TWO belts!!! lol
#13
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From: florida
Originally Posted by OldVFRGuy
Like this......https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...659#post714659