UTEC in a G?
a little tip for you G guys on mounting the utec. what i did is i took the whole mounting bracket out of the car. then i used the three 10mm bolts and mounted the utec to the stock ecu. i then turned the utec sideways so all the plugs you will ever need to plug into will be aimed down. now i will never have to take it out. i then used four strong zip ties to mount the whole unit up higher in the dash and it doesnt move or rub anything and is easy to plug things into. without the stock bracket you have 4 times as much room
thanks guys and it was nice meeting ya up there kevin, good luck with your tuning and i have it all figured out (utec) if you have any questions. my MAP sensor will be here wed and i will be tuning my NA car speed density to get rid of all these stupid stock ecu problems
thanks guys and it was nice meeting ya up there kevin, good luck with your tuning and i have it all figured out (utec) if you have any questions. my MAP sensor will be here wed and i will be tuning my NA car speed density to get rid of all these stupid stock ecu problems
It was great meeting you too!
I mounted my UTEC so that the Map selector switch was facing down. I did not get the remote switch, so this was important to me. I also kept the stock bracket as the lower dash piece clips in to it. In order to keep it I had to cut all three mounting posts off of it. I then removed all the mouting posts from the UTEC. I used some really strong double sided tape and secured the UTEC and the OEM ECU to the stock mounting plate. I then used some really long zip ties to make sure they stayed together. I had to force the thing in to the car, but the stock bracket did bolt back up, and everything went together perfect.
I mounted my UTEC so that the Map selector switch was facing down. I did not get the remote switch, so this was important to me. I also kept the stock bracket as the lower dash piece clips in to it. In order to keep it I had to cut all three mounting posts off of it. I then removed all the mouting posts from the UTEC. I used some really strong double sided tape and secured the UTEC and the OEM ECU to the stock mounting plate. I then used some really long zip ties to make sure they stayed together. I had to force the thing in to the car, but the stock bracket did bolt back up, and everything went together perfect.
cool man, yeah i would highly recommend the map selector switch. for only a hundred bucks its nice to have with a turbo or nitrous setup. NA it really doesnt matter because there is no reason to have anything less than your best map unless you run a different high compression map for the track or something.
if you are just tuning your turbo for one map then its fine. good luck and let me know if you have any little problems with the utec cause i have already had them all...
if you are just tuning your turbo for one map then its fine. good luck and let me know if you have any little problems with the utec cause i have already had them all...
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
my MAP sensor will be here wed and i will be tuning my NA car speed density to get rid of all these stupid stock ecu problems
There is a downloadable PDF at the turboxs website (in case you didn't know about it) - at the end (as I recall) are the plug schematics.
I have heard through the WRX board that the custom GUI software (that Kevin found and posted at my350z - can't remember the name now) for the UTEC will soon have a new version for the 350z AND it will support the Zeitronix A/F wideband. So I was going to wait for that release so that you get a cheap wideband plus a good realtime gauge that works with the UTEC (rather than the tuner pro which costs more and is probably a great unit but not really designed for use outside tuning). Hope that made sense...
I have heard through the WRX board that the custom GUI software (that Kevin found and posted at my350z - can't remember the name now) for the UTEC will soon have a new version for the 350z AND it will support the Zeitronix A/F wideband. So I was going to wait for that release so that you get a cheap wideband plus a good realtime gauge that works with the UTEC (rather than the tuner pro which costs more and is probably a great unit but not really designed for use outside tuning). Hope that made sense...
Last edited by rcdash; May 22, 2006 at 04:09 PM.
hey man, those two wires right there with the clips on them are for a clutch switch on the evos. i just taped them up to make sure they didnt contact anything and tucked them away.
i think they are ground switches so it doesnt even matter if you tape them. the red and black wires are for the spare solenoid and they dont do anything unless you are using that for some reason (nitrous)
just plug the white clip in and you are all done. make sure you have the dial switch on the actual utec on 0 and then you are ready to go. the dashboard actually will tell you what map you are on
the reason your car sounded like a V8 is cause it was on a map with no values plugged into it. i accidently hit my map switch with my elbow and my car ran like that for a while till we figured out.
good luck!!
i think they are ground switches so it doesnt even matter if you tape them. the red and black wires are for the spare solenoid and they dont do anything unless you are using that for some reason (nitrous)
just plug the white clip in and you are all done. make sure you have the dial switch on the actual utec on 0 and then you are ready to go. the dashboard actually will tell you what map you are on
the reason your car sounded like a V8 is cause it was on a map with no values plugged into it. i accidently hit my map switch with my elbow and my car ran like that for a while till we figured out.
good luck!!
Not to familiar with the Utec what does it do? Why do you need one? Is it only FI motors or does NA benefit from it as well? What stock ECU problems are you referring to? I know this is off topic but I'm just curious as to what this thing does? Thanks.
Plain and simple, it doesn't.
You'll have to force it in there if you want to be able to put all the pieces of the underdash back in.
I did take some pics, let me look through my cam and see if I can find them.
You'll have to force it in there if you want to be able to put all the pieces of the underdash back in.
I did take some pics, let me look through my cam and see if I can find them.
Plain and simple, it doesn't.
You'll have to force it in there if you want to be able to put all the pieces of the underdash back in.
I did take some pics, let me look through my cam and see if I can find them.
You'll have to force it in there if you want to be able to put all the pieces of the underdash back in.
I did take some pics, let me look through my cam and see if I can find them.
Thank You!
Notice the white carpet tape holding the two ECUs together. Also, you can notice the black zip tie that helps hold everything together. The stock ECU mouting bracket is in the middle of the two ECUs. I had to cut off the three studs, and ALL the studs on the UTEC.
To the right of the dash you can see the white wire harness, it is on a metal 'arm' and I bent that as far right as I could get it.
It took me two long days to get this thing in there like that. I tried several different orientations, all trying to keep the stock bracket so my underdash would have someting to clip to. The stock bracket IS in there, and the lower under dash piece is attached to it right now.
My two programming cables (AEM wideband and UTEC serial) are in the glovebox and can be accessed at any time.
Good luck!
To the right of the dash you can see the white wire harness, it is on a metal 'arm' and I bent that as far right as I could get it.
It took me two long days to get this thing in there like that. I tried several different orientations, all trying to keep the stock bracket so my underdash would have someting to clip to. The stock bracket IS in there, and the lower under dash piece is attached to it right now.
My two programming cables (AEM wideband and UTEC serial) are in the glovebox and can be accessed at any time.
Good luck!
