Dead G35, tricky problem, searched other threads... no luck
Dead G35, tricky problem, searched other threads... no luck
I searched the 478 threads with "electrical problem" and the 375 threads with "won't start"... two had similar issues, sent PMs but no replies yet... here's a brief synopsis:
2003, 5AT coupe ...45k miles (warranty until 2010, 80k miles)
COMPLETELY STOCK
My car won't start... I assumed it was the battery since I tested the alternator and checked both fuse boxes.
I then went to sears, bought a die hard platinum battery, they charged & installed.
Car won't start the next day.
I go to the dealership, they find the source of the draw... it was a burned out factory Bose Head unit.
They swap it out, test the electrical system & charge the battery.
Car won't start the next day.
I go back to the dealership, tell them. They "test everything" and say there are no problems, and that the cause is the non-factory battery I had put in by Sears: their claim "the battery has too many amps for the car and will eventually burn out the starter"
I charged the battery, dealership assured me there are no electrical draws. The next day, my car won't start.
I STILL can't find the cause of this, the battery is brand new, and works fine... but somehow is being drained / discharged... and the old battery was too.
ANY OTHER WAYS the batteries (stock and the replacement Sear's Die Hard) would be discharging if the dealership assures there are are no electrical draws?
Thank you in advance for any and all help!
2003, 5AT coupe ...45k miles (warranty until 2010, 80k miles)
COMPLETELY STOCK
My car won't start... I assumed it was the battery since I tested the alternator and checked both fuse boxes.
I then went to sears, bought a die hard platinum battery, they charged & installed.
Car won't start the next day.
I go to the dealership, they find the source of the draw... it was a burned out factory Bose Head unit.
They swap it out, test the electrical system & charge the battery.
Car won't start the next day.
I go back to the dealership, tell them. They "test everything" and say there are no problems, and that the cause is the non-factory battery I had put in by Sears: their claim "the battery has too many amps for the car and will eventually burn out the starter"
I charged the battery, dealership assured me there are no electrical draws. The next day, my car won't start.
I STILL can't find the cause of this, the battery is brand new, and works fine... but somehow is being drained / discharged... and the old battery was too.
ANY OTHER WAYS the batteries (stock and the replacement Sear's Die Hard) would be discharging if the dealership assures there are are no electrical draws?
Thank you in advance for any and all help!
put a multimeter between the POS and the battery cable and check what the amperage draw then start taking out fuses one by one until you see that amperage draw go down to almost 0.
I had the same issue on my old eclipse found it was a bad power door lock switch.
I had the same issue on my old eclipse found it was a bad power door lock switch.
I did that, checked every fuse.
The factory head unit (clarion with Bose badge) was drawing 400mA (0.4 amps). Infiniti swapped out the stereo under warranty. They tested the circuitry and assured it was fine. The next day I couldn't start the car. I jumpstarted, took it back. They re-tested and assured me everything checked out again (retested every fuse, etc) and that the only problem could be the battery I *JUST* put in a week prior. Their claim is that since the battery is 880 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) that it is too much for the car and will eventually fry the starter and alternator. Even if I were dumb enough to follow their logic and consider the issue resolved... I had the problem with the factory battery as well. Sears was generous enough to refund me the battery, and I just put a factory infiniti battery in via the dealership. Now, the car is completely stock and the battery still dies and infiniti says there is nothing wrong with the circuit.... yet the car still dies after only a few hours.
The factory head unit (clarion with Bose badge) was drawing 400mA (0.4 amps). Infiniti swapped out the stereo under warranty. They tested the circuitry and assured it was fine. The next day I couldn't start the car. I jumpstarted, took it back. They re-tested and assured me everything checked out again (retested every fuse, etc) and that the only problem could be the battery I *JUST* put in a week prior. Their claim is that since the battery is 880 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) that it is too much for the car and will eventually fry the starter and alternator. Even if I were dumb enough to follow their logic and consider the issue resolved... I had the problem with the factory battery as well. Sears was generous enough to refund me the battery, and I just put a factory infiniti battery in via the dealership. Now, the car is completely stock and the battery still dies and infiniti says there is nothing wrong with the circuit.... yet the car still dies after only a few hours.
\last week my car wouldnt start i had to tow it in to the dealership all my warning lights were on no trans indicatore no gauges tach speedo so they dianossed it and there were wirring that needed to e fixed and grounds that needed to e tightened no parts just labour
my car has started to do this recently.... only had to jump it once though... every now and then ill turn the key and get nothing, but all i have to do is usually try it again.. sometimes i have to remove the key and try again... but i still have the same factory battery and its a 03..tested it and fine was low on water but i just filled it up.. i have had 3 new bose headunits too...
That's classic symptoms of a drain, especially if you can start it a few times before it losses power over time.
Since you checked all the fuses, it must be something that consumes power but isn't fused.
Since you checked all the fuses, it must be something that consumes power but isn't fused.
Trending Topics
Gian124 U mentioned that ur stereo was replaced under warranty. If that is the case why did u go and buy a battery from sears instead of having the dealer worry about it. Dealer is there to make ur life as miserable as possible so they will give u every possible excuse to not fix ur car. Unfortunately that is a price that we pay when buying a nissan product.
Now my suggestion is: Go to a junk yard and get the stock battery and put it in the car. Stop the car in the middle of the street and call the road side assistance and tell them to tow the car to the dealer. U go to the dealer and start being very rude and sometimes unprofessional. Have them check out the problem and give u a loaner at the mean time. If they refuse to do even one minor thing that u requested then get the nissan corporate number and the service managers name and tell them they are refusing to fix that car under warranty. Mentioning attorney and all that good stuff helps speeding up the whole process.
Now my suggestion is: Go to a junk yard and get the stock battery and put it in the car. Stop the car in the middle of the street and call the road side assistance and tell them to tow the car to the dealer. U go to the dealer and start being very rude and sometimes unprofessional. Have them check out the problem and give u a loaner at the mean time. If they refuse to do even one minor thing that u requested then get the nissan corporate number and the service managers name and tell them they are refusing to fix that car under warranty. Mentioning attorney and all that good stuff helps speeding up the whole process.
A small current draw will pull a battery down to the point where it can't start the car, but shouldn't completely kill it overnight. My suggestion would be to check for current draw first thing in the morning when the car is cold and the battery low.
You likely have an intermittent problem that does not show up when the car is warm.
You likely have an intermittent problem that does not show up when the car is warm.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
laksjd84
Exterior - Body Parts
1
Jul 24, 2015 05:12 PM
stay_tuned
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
Jul 21, 2015 07:09 PM





