Why royal purple considered no good for VQ?
#16
03-24-2008, 12:20 PM
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
You do know there's way more about oil than just that one test right?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
#17
03-24-2008, 05:13 PM
Originally Posted by Dakkerz
I've only had it in for two days now, but so far it performs the same as when I had Royal Purple in there. Only reason I switched to Amsoil is I've heard some issues with running RP MT fluid and Rear Diff fluid. I figured while I was putting in Amsoil for the MT and rear diff I'd go ahead and try their oil and filter as well. They say their oil filter and signature 0w-30 is rated up to 25,000 miles or 1 yr 
. I'm interested to see how it holds up.
. I'm interested to see how it holds up.
#18
03-24-2008, 05:27 PM
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#19
03-24-2008, 06:20 PM
Originally Posted by LudwigB
Like we need another oil test
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
It shows royal purple is one of the best.
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
It shows royal purple is one of the best.
Originally Posted by Resolute
This was discussed in the UOA/Oil Data sticky. The test was not done correctly for starters. But it doesn't matter, because the Timken Load bearing test they tried to duplicate hasn't been used since the 70's for engine oil testing. The API and other organizations have already confirmed that the Timken test has no indication of an oil's performance in an engine, and to make it worse, Street Commodores came out and said they should not have published the test after all the criticisms they received about their botched job. The links for all this information are in the sticky.
The Timken test, when actually done correctly, is designed to reveal the presence of any Extreme Pressure additives in the oil or grease. RP would do well in this test because they use a sulfur additive as a surface hardener, which explains the typically high copper wear found when using RP oils, since sulfur is corrosive to yellow metals.
Will
The Timken test, when actually done correctly, is designed to reveal the presence of any Extreme Pressure additives in the oil or grease. RP would do well in this test because they use a sulfur additive as a surface hardener, which explains the typically high copper wear found when using RP oils, since sulfur is corrosive to yellow metals.
Will
#20
03-24-2008, 06:20 PM
Originally Posted by Dakkerz
Originally Posted by Resolute
RP 5W-30 sheared down to a 20 weight oil in four different engines. It also showed higher than average wear in all four engines, and was not a very good oil considering the price.
RP has since reformulated their 5W-30, and it is more robust. Only one person has tried it and posted a UOA. Their mileage was average for the previous samples, but the wear was a lot lower with the new oil. It also stayed in grade.
The new formula looks to be a lot better, but with only one sample, it's still hard to say it's worth the money. Especially when you consider that the average of four Castrol GTX 5W-30 samples have much lower wear than even the new version of RP 5W-30.
Only one person has used RP 10W-40 and had it tested. It also sheared in the VQ, to a really thin 40 weight. Copper and Lead were much higher than average for the mileage put on the oil.
If you change your oil every 3k-5k miles, I couldn't see spending the money on RP when there are better options for less money.
Will
RP has since reformulated their 5W-30, and it is more robust. Only one person has tried it and posted a UOA. Their mileage was average for the previous samples, but the wear was a lot lower with the new oil. It also stayed in grade.
The new formula looks to be a lot better, but with only one sample, it's still hard to say it's worth the money. Especially when you consider that the average of four Castrol GTX 5W-30 samples have much lower wear than even the new version of RP 5W-30.
Only one person has used RP 10W-40 and had it tested. It also sheared in the VQ, to a really thin 40 weight. Copper and Lead were much higher than average for the mileage put on the oil.
If you change your oil every 3k-5k miles, I couldn't see spending the money on RP when there are better options for less money.
Will
#21
03-24-2008, 06:59 PM
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#22
03-24-2008, 07:20 PM
Originally Posted by Auto Painter
My first oil change was @3699 mi. I went with Amsoil 5 w30 w/fac. oil filter Just drove it tonight(after 4 mos.in garage) Has 5600 mi. now. My question is would you change the oil after sitting for 4 mos. and only 2000+ miles?? (Second gear kicks ***)
#24
03-25-2008, 08:25 AM
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
From the Z forum:
#25
03-25-2008, 11:23 AM
#26
03-25-2008, 10:26 PM
Here's pic of my temperature gauge. I can't say for sure but it seems one tick lower than my previous motul 5-30W. I really like the RP 5-30W but with all the negative sentiment around it, I will probably either use Mobil M1 0-40, or Castrol Syntec, or Amsoil 5-30W all of which received very good results from various members' oil analysis http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258663
Last edited by LudwigB; 03-25-2008 at 10:31 PM.
#28
03-26-2008, 02:02 PM
Originally Posted by Dakkerz
Thanks for the info on RP Jeff, but as I stated earlier, I'm not running RP. I'm running an amsoil filter and amsoil oil. Can you give any info on that since I'm curious as to how it would hold up (hence the reason I wanted to get a baseline and monitor my used oil).
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