Oh, of course that was the first thing we all did but rethreading was not and option.. That stud is toast.

 

note to self: do not let dbag or friends get near car...

If it were me, then I'd cut off both bolts, weld two studs to a plate (1/8" ish) and weld that inside the wheel well, the loss of an 1/8" of travel shouldn't be a problem.

 

How about re-threading it to the next smaller size? I know metric and inch sizes are really close. If the next size down in an Inch size is slightly smaller than the MM but not as small as the next MM size down, that might be an option. Would have to run an Inch sized bolt but who cares?

 

I'm fine with pretty much anything but what I am worried about is the strength and how it will hold up.

note to self: do not let friends work on rear shocks with air tools.

 

thats how mine snapped too...its a viable option like i said self tapping bolt, straight through the center of that stud, boyah, defintely stronger than it used to be

 

yeah, air tools can be bad



CreativeDesignZ's method sounds good.


I wouldn't worry too much about strength, unless you're catching air a lot, otherwise the weight of the car divided by the give of the shock is just pressing up into the wheel well, really no torsional loads either, I would trust 8mm threads if possible to salvage on the stud or the plate should be more than strong enough.

 

alright I'll go to the shop with these options and have them help choose the best one.

Couldn't rethread because the stud is and was really being rubbed up on by the shock mount so it scraped the metal off.

 

Here is how to fix it correctly. Use angle grinder and cut stud off as close to the body as possible, then grind it smooth. Drill out remaining stud to correct new O.D. as explained later. Buy a stud from McMaster Carr with the tread and pitch you want, with appopriate lenth, make sure the shoulder is knurled. Use drill but according to shoulder dia before knurles. Thru the shock hole feed it in, then do the same trick with a stack of washers the correct size and pull the stud thru. Reinstall shock, and laugh at how they wanted to charge you $2500 to cut the quarter of for a $10 fix.

 

^nice, I am showing that to my shop.

Yeah, **** that nissan dealer wanting over $2500

 

I thought you had no easy access to the top of the shock tower mount???

 

there isnt, i actually had to cut a small hole in mine just so i can reach my adjusters for my coil overs. i dont see how green gob's fix would work, i dont really understand some of the stuff hes trying to explain, but theres no way to get to the top of the shock mount unless you cut holes in your trunk

 

I guess a hole that's a touch bigger then the stud you are going to replace isn't going to hurt anything. Especially when that might be the only decent solution

 

Green gobs method is to fix everything from under the car i think.

 

either way u need to get the stud secured to the top of the shock tower...

 

Yeah I figured.. I think the new bolt welded in method is best.. I am SUPER pissed that I stripped my interior for nothing.. Going to be a total bitch to put back together.

Do you have pics?