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  #31  
Old 02-08-2010, 04:54 PM
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If you feed the new stud though a hole at the top, you can use a socket in there to tighten it. You'll need two people though. Could spot weld it but you aren't going to get a mig tip in there.
 
  #32  
Old 02-08-2010, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CreativeDesignZ
there isnt, i actually had to cut a small hole in mine just so i can reach my adjusters for my coil overs. i dont see how green gob's fix would work, i dont really understand some of the stuff hes trying to explain, but theres no way to get to the top of the shock mount unless you cut holes in your trunk
GG is saying to feed the new bolt through while the shock is off the car. you would put in in thru the large center hole where the shock body is and basically let it fall down into the stud hole that you punched the old stud out of. and then "pull" it down tight to the shoulder using the washers
 
  #33  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:01 PM
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Is this common? Or just because he was using air tools? I'm planning on putting coilovers on myself in a couple weeks using only hand tools, but this thread has got me freaked out.
 
  #34  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tragedycat
Is this common? Or just because he was using air tools? I'm planning on putting coilovers on myself in a couple weeks using only hand tools, but this thread has got me freaked out.
as long as you start the nut by hand, youll be fine
 
  #35  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:06 PM
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Have to use your judgement. Note how incredibly thin that stud is. Yeah, that's a hand tool thing.
 
  #36  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:08 PM
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you should be fine with hand tools but please be careful.. There is no replacement part for this.
 
  #37  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:13 PM
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lol, i took out my interior too to try to find "access" wasted an hour taking it out and putting it back in. no pics, its just a bolt through the cut off stud. that sheet metal is so thin, the self tapping bolt will be better than having a stud welded to that junk. if you cut through it youd understand.
 
  #38  
Old 02-08-2010, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by erklep
GG is saying to feed the new bolt through while the shock is off the car. you would put in in thru the large center hole where the shock body is and basically let it fall down into the stud hole that you punched the old stud out of. and then "pull" it down tight to the shoulder using the washers
ahh i gotcha, thats a good idea as well. if this ever starts to make noise ill be sure to do that
 
  #39  
Old 02-08-2010, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenGoblin
Here is how to fix it correctly. Use angle grinder and cut stud off as close to the body as possible, then grind it smooth. Drill out remaining stud to correct new O.D. as explained later. Buy a stud from McMaster Carr with the tread and pitch you want, with appopriate lenth, make sure the shoulder is knurled. Use drill but according to shoulder dia before knurles. Thru the shock hole feed it in, then do the same trick with a stack of washers the correct size and pull the stud thru. Reinstall shock, and laugh at how they wanted to charge you $2500 to cut the quarter of for a $10 fix.
Good idea, if there is enough room to angle the bolt in from above.
 
  #40  
Old 02-08-2010, 09:22 PM
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torque specs come in handy in these situations........they are on the same level to birth control......you know you should use it and do it right but do you always? lol
 
  #41  
Old 06-20-2017, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CreativeDesignZ
i did the same thing officer, what i did was take a self tapping bolt from home depot and drilled it through the center of that stud which then held the coil over back in place. my stud sheared right in half when i was losening the bolts to take off the stock shocks. hasnt been a problem for over a year and a half, knock on wood. and i do track my car
Lol hi. I know, 7 years later. Dunno if I'll get a reply but I have a similar issue, the two nuts r completely seized on and are practically stripped even using a 12 point wrench end. Anyways I was thinking of grinding it off and doing the self tapping screw method. Do you know the size? I'm guessing a 1.25 pitch and whatever fits a 12mm nut.. that as well as maybe heating up the nut and try removing it then.. anyone have suggestions?
 
  #42  
Old 06-24-2017, 01:31 PM
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Try to get that nut off, it's much better than destroying the stud and having to replace it. Try heat, cold, penetrating oils like Kroil. 12-point sockets strip screws a lot more easily than 6-point, so if you can still get a 6-point on it, try that. If you still can't get it off, try to destroy the nut instead of the bolt - grind it, drill it, whatever. Once you cut it, you can pry it apart.
 
  #43  
Old 06-24-2017, 03:16 PM
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+1, destroy that nut if you have to...much better than having to replace the stud.
 
  #44  
Old 06-24-2017, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by marcinr
Try to get that nut off, it's much better than destroying the stud and having to replace it. Try heat, cold, penetrating oils like Kroil. 12-point sockets strip screws a lot more easily than 6-point, so if you can still get a 6-point on it, try that. If you still can't get it off, try to destroy the nut instead of the bolt - grind it, drill it, whatever. Once you cut it, you can pry it apart.
Originally Posted by bigc
+1, destroy that nut if you have to...much better than having to replace the stud.
Thanks guys, i actually couldn't take it off and it got stripped using a hex socket. couldn't get it mainly cus I couldn't get the arm grip due to the old shock being in the way. What i did is grind the nut/stud off as much as i could with a dremel and then go in from the top and a drill through the old stud. Holy **** it was a pain to get through that metal, took forever and could't get to as big as a size as I wanted to, but I was able to put the bolt in through the top and replace the bottom nut with a new nut and it seems that it has worked fine.
 
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