Engine performance mods:
MREV and 5/16 plenum spacer, CAI or rev up box/z tube/drop in K&N filter(half the price of CAI just not as loud same performance if not a tad better)

cat back exhaust: lots on market they all do the same. what you are paying for is original fitment and sound. the more expensive brands will generally fit better out of the box but any descent muffler shop can get any to work. as far as sound that's subjective. you will just have to search for clips of different set ups with similar mods to get an idea. I have a HKS replica that's been on for about 2 years with lots of miles. still love the way it sounds, no drone and have had no issues with it.

test pipes(resonated/non resonated) high flow cats: TP > HFC>> > oem cats as far as performance. TP do have a slight gain over HFC because of increased air flow but also have more rasp to the exhaust sound than HFC. also they produce more smell but it isn't as bad as most make it out to be. the resonated TP will have less rasp that the non resonated and the HFC will have less than the resonated tp.

headers: most people will tell you to skip these because of the install. its a pain if you do them yourself and expensive if you take to a shop for the amount of performance gain you get from them so you will have to make a decision on if its worth it to you. they come either as shorties or long tube. shorties will replace your stock manifold and attach to your test pipes or HFC. long tube will replace your stock manifold and cats in one piece. the both have pros and cons so its up to you. Im actually looking at headers myself and trying to decide on shorties vs long tubes so i'll let you know.

tune: this is were you will see the most gains performance wise. most go with the Uprev Osiris tune. You will get gains as you mod but the tune will tie it all together. generally looking at $500-700 for tune depending on your area. The tune is not necessary (unless you opt for headers then it is) but is the best investment you can make towards your car.

after all those mods you are set unless you are wanting to go FI.

 

what type of rims would u suggest to get are either 20" or 19 "

 

I have 19s but lots of guys run 20s. I would look at the wheel widths and offset more so than 19s vs 20s. You can get spacers but if you can try to get wheels with proper offsets to begin with.

 

After Saturdays drive from my front door down Hwy 126 to 150 to Ojai and all those beautiful green hills with their twisties for a few hours of relaxation, Then out Hwy 30 to Ventura and lunch at my favorite restaurant, Rhumb Line for clam chowder. (best on the whole west coast) Then headed home down Hwy 126 again counting 4 Highway Patrol cars on the way. Only drive 5 to 8 mph over the limit trying not to get noticed.
Spent the next 3 hours giving SLICK a bath and total detail after we got home. All tucked away in her garage for the evening and Sunday too.
Gary

 

well i was thinking VOSSEN or Klasse Motor Sport or Ruff Raing or BBS

 

Vossens are heavy Cast wheels, if you want decent reps go with Varrstoen, Niche ETC your paying 2 grand for vossens name compared to 1,000 for other wheels

 

Wheels are going to be subjective because for most people it's purely cosmetic therefore to each his own. Me personally I wouldn't spend over $1500 for a set of wheels. My current wheels I paid $700 for them brand new. Honestly wheels are probably the most frustrating thing to buy for a car because so many options and you'll want all of them. Like a girl shopping for a wedding dress lol

 

Installed N1 lip. Looks pretty decent actually.

 

Replaced the rear pads/rotors and installed stainless steel brake lines. Also did the parking brake shoes/hardware.

 

I paid $900+OEM trade for lmgt4s. Looks, performance, price; nobody even comes close

 

I think them 19s lmgt4s come a bit closer though... Ha ha

 

Closer to what? Homosexuality?

 

Well not exactly as closest to that. But you get the jist..

 

I wish this forum supported the tapatalk app, that's what I use on just about every other forum I'm part of, except for this one.

 

As my G approaches 200K I decided to do a complete suspension refresh and tune-up.

Waiting on everything to arrive, but I ordered:

Front Ball Joints (from CZP)
Sway Bar End Links, front & rear
Outer Tie Rods
Mevotech Compression Rods (have Whiteline bushings to swap in)
KYB Shocks/Struts
Moog Shock Mounts, front & rear
Suspension Tech grease for swaybars

NTK O2 Sensors, upstream
Spark Plugs
Motordyne Aramid/copper upgrade (been sitting on my shelf for a year)

This is in addition to rear wheel bearings and PCV valve that I swapped out a few weeks ago. I've been needing/wanting new shocks for a while now, but last year I needed new tires, and the year prior I spent a lot engine swapping my wife's 240SX.

If that doesn't get rid of the front end clunk, then the last thing would be replacement ball joints for the SPC front arms.