What did you do to the G today?
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,799
Received 2,463 Likes
on
2,155 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
You might be on to something, apparently the swap isn't THAT difficult when you have a donor car to cut some spot welds and transfer over some sheet metal. Along with the plethora of other stuff on the front.
FX35 has 3.69 differentials. The newer 370Z / G37 3.69 rear VLSD diff would be a great compliment to it.
My endgame has ALWAYS been to eventually import a RHD 2003-2007 Skyline once they're 25 years old and available to register in the USA. 5 more years until the first of them can roll in, TECHNICALLY 4 years since the Skyline V35 was available as a 2002 model year.
My 2006 coupe goal has been to learn as much as I possibly can about every single aspect of the car, experiment, have fun, so all that knowledge and can be applied to a RHD one someday. I'm not going to chop my 2006 though, bolt-ons are fine but I'm not gutting it and I'm not cutting out sheet metal.
FX35 has 3.69 differentials. The newer 370Z / G37 3.69 rear VLSD diff would be a great compliment to it.
My endgame has ALWAYS been to eventually import a RHD 2003-2007 Skyline once they're 25 years old and available to register in the USA. 5 more years until the first of them can roll in, TECHNICALLY 4 years since the Skyline V35 was available as a 2002 model year.
My 2006 coupe goal has been to learn as much as I possibly can about every single aspect of the car, experiment, have fun, so all that knowledge and can be applied to a RHD one someday. I'm not going to chop my 2006 though, bolt-ons are fine but I'm not gutting it and I'm not cutting out sheet metal.
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,799
Received 2,463 Likes
on
2,155 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
As for what I did to the G today... washed the grime off because it's been sitting next to the neighbors pasture for a couple weeks while I did some groundwork for the new shop. Clearcoat is starting to peel a little on top so I picked up some KH3 single stage paint (aerosol can) and plan on respraying it outdoors tomorrow, polish on Sunday probably. Also got a can of Spraymax 2k clear for headlights, mostly this was for the Tacoma but I noticed the headlights on the G are looking a tad yellow so I'll probably polish both since one can of spray usually does a little over 4 headlights.
All weather dependent though, it's SUPPOSED to be calm tomorrow with a high of 91 so I'll probably tackle it in the morning.
All weather dependent though, it's SUPPOSED to be calm tomorrow with a high of 91 so I'll probably tackle it in the morning.
The following users liked this post:
HoserG35 (06-06-2023)
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
Posts: 14,799
Received 2,463 Likes
on
2,155 Posts
Coupe 6MT Premium RAS
My battery had a heart attack and Died Suddenly™, pulled it to replace but didn't realize my normal battery shop isn't open Saturdays so now it's chilling in the back of the Tacoma while the G is sitting lonely with the doors unlocked in the driveway all weekend...
I should pop the lock cover off and lock it up, I probably won't though.
I should pop the lock cover off and lock it up, I probably won't though.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
The following users liked this post:
tommyjness (08-03-2023)
Did driver's side today, it went better in some ways but worse in others. What a nightmare of a job. I had done the window motors in both sides years ago so I had a taste of what would be involved. But I guess I didn't realize the actuator install would involve removing the windows and exterior door handles. Saved time and hassle by removing the window first which allows you to remove that entire inner panel assembly with the window motor and rails in place. Really helped with reassembly - shout out to @r1forever80 for that tip. But the time that saved me was lost removing the key lock insert. That and reinstalling the exterior door handle gave me fits. The driver's side is another level harder than the passenger side because of the lock mechanism.
But thankfully I'm all done and both sides are working. Very quick and snappy but both door handles are noticeably tighter and take more effort to pull. Wonder if that'll loosen up with time.
I did not use OEM. Went with an aftermarket OEM-style set I purchased off eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/404180386177) roughly $120 for the pair.
But thankfully I'm all done and both sides are working. Very quick and snappy but both door handles are noticeably tighter and take more effort to pull. Wonder if that'll loosen up with time.
I did not use OEM. Went with an aftermarket OEM-style set I purchased off eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/404180386177) roughly $120 for the pair.
Heres the thread for the cheaper/easier route: https://g35driver.com/forums/interio...ed-thread.html
I even added an easier way to do it on the last page. (With photos!)
I even added an easier way to do it on the last page. (With photos!)
The following users liked this post:
Urbanengineer (07-27-2023)
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
The following 4 users liked this post by Urbanengineer:
Did driver's side today, it went better in some ways but worse in others. What a nightmare of a job. I had done the window motors in both sides years ago so I had a taste of what would be involved. But I guess I didn't realize the actuator install would involve removing the windows and exterior door handles. Saved time and hassle by removing the window first which allows you to remove that entire inner panel assembly with the window motor and rails in place. Really helped with reassembly - shout out to @r1forever80 for that tip. But the time that saved me was lost removing the key lock insert. That and reinstalling the exterior door handle gave me fits. The driver's side is another level harder than the passenger side because of the lock mechanism.
But thankfully I'm all done and both sides are working. Very quick and snappy but both door handles are noticeably tighter and take more effort to pull. Wonder if that'll loosen up with time.
I did not use OEM. Went with an aftermarket OEM-style set I purchased off eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/404180386177) roughly $120 for the pair.
But thankfully I'm all done and both sides are working. Very quick and snappy but both door handles are noticeably tighter and take more effort to pull. Wonder if that'll loosen up with time.
I did not use OEM. Went with an aftermarket OEM-style set I purchased off eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/404180386177) roughly $120 for the pair.
That job does not look easy.
I must be very lucky. I'm still on OEM actuators and window motors/regulators going 20 years. Driving only in summer helps I guess.