Seems to have no problem turning over, no issue or clicking, will start, but then RPM drops to 0 and I have to restart the car. If I apply some gas during start it won't stall.

I've changed the air filter, cleaned the MAF, cleaned half the throttle body (couldn't remove the allen wrench screws so only did one side), both with CRC specialized cleaner, did an ECU reset. Still happens. Took it into the shop and he said he didn't have it happen or didn't find anything wrong, but it happens several times a day. Really at my wits end here on this one.

Here is a video of it stalling:


And of it almost stalling:

No check engine lights or error codes from the car. The only other issue is possible oil leaking from a weird area behind the pan and filter section? Please see this video for that:


The pan itself and the ring around the oil filter appear pretty damn clean, but the parts behind it seem to be coated. Could that be related or something else? Is it even oil? It sure looks like it could be. Not sure if it would cause the stall issue though.

 

How long has it been sitting between your restarts? It could be your fuel pump not maintaining pressure in the rails.

 

Sometimes a few minutes, sometimes an hour. The first video was literally 30 seconds. I pulled it in to the garage after driving, waited less than a minute, and tried turning it on again and you see the above video. The video where it almost stalls was about 10 minutes after driving.

Would a faulty fuel pump show such timings?

 

If it only stalls when you turn the wheel that is a failing power steering pressure sensor.

 

You mean turn off the car with the wheel turned? Because it never stalls (that is the correct term for when RPM drops to 0?) when driving, just when turning it on, and I believe the wheel is always generally in the straight position then.

 

It could depending on how fast it loses pressure. When you turn the key to the on position it usually primes the rail for one or two secs with fuel (try turning it on/off several times and then finally crank it). When the car is off it should maintain pressure as well to make easier starting. The fact you have to give it gas to stop from dying is an indicator as well.

After it's up and running do you have any problems? You'd need an adapter to test the fuel pressure; I think Z1 sells them for like 60 bucks. Basically, it should prime it and hold the pressure and you'd be able to tell with a fuel pressure gauge.

Did all this happen prior to cleaning the TB and MAF?

You can try starting it without pressing the gas to see if it cranks. Then use some starting fluid (liberally), throttle cleaner, or something else sprayed into the intake. If it fires right up then you have a fuel delivery issue.

Could also be throttle body, accelerator pedal, etc.. See if your car has any pending codes as well.

There is also a rubber grommet on the fuel pump that has been known to rot away and cause fuel issues.

 

Wow lots of great information:

Yes, I did that because I read it could be part of the issue. especially the TB.

None.

Nope, no problems then.

Every time shown in the above videos I'm starting it without pressing the gas, what does a crank sound like? Is it cranking in the videos?

I think I read you can rent a fuel pressure gauge from autozone, I will look into that.

 

Try starting the car without the MAF connector plugged in. It will set a code, but should run really rich and limp mode. If that works you can narrow the fuel out and look at too much air getting in.

Yes, a crank is when the car tries to start and you hear the engine turning over.

You would still need a fuel pressure adapter the best one I've seen is from Z1. Other than that you have to buy some special tool adapters.

If you try turning the key on/off a few times and it starts without pressing the gas that can help you determine if it's keeping pressure when turned off.

 

Remove the engine shield and clean it up as much as possible. Put it on ramps or jack stands and start it and let it run and look for drips. The "coated" appearance is just because it's being spread from driving. My first thought is the oil-cooler gasket ($8 gasket, replace it during your next oil change unless it's losing enough oil that you need to top it off). Next guess is the drain plug or specifically, the crush washer. Do you replace them ? If not, can't hurt to replace it just to rule it out.

 

The car does crank and the car does run with the MAF disconnected.

 

I haven't replaced the drain plug or the crush washer.

I have trouble remove the undercarriage. I've already broken 2 holes trying. Perhaps I am doing it wrong, but the plastic shield looks like its in two parts, And there's a point where they seem to connect by screws just plastic to plastic. I can't unscrew those things, there is some kind of clip or something on the backside (side opposite of head) that it just won't turn after a certain point.

And one of the screws that actually screws into the metal, the head just broke off, so I had to zip tie that up. Some of the other screws are also extremely rusted and I'm worried those heads will break off too. So any help with that? And do you think this oil stuff could be related to the stalling?

 

Replacing the plug itself isn't too common. I doubt that's the issue. The crush washer is what provides a better seal. Some people never change them, some change them religiously, some use them a few times before changing them.... I bought a 10-pack for under $5. Same washers fit the ATF drain plug too.

How do you or someone else change the oil and filter ? You need to get them out. Worst case, you buy a new engine shield (aftermarket ones aren't too expensive) and buy new fasteners and 'clips'. Once you have those, just rip the existing shield off. You'll have to tear it at each fastener location or may need to use cutters to get it off. Once it's off, you'll see how the clips work and how to put the new ones in. You'll see it's very simple. On my '08, there is 15-20 fasteners but mine is missing a few as well as missing the plastic push-clips through the center. It's not an issue though. Along the front, there are maybe (7) holes but I only have (4) fasteners.

Causing the stalling issue ? I don't believe so.

 

Does it start on the first time with the MAF disconnected and then go back to how it was when you plug it back in?

I'd look for a vacuum leak, throttle body (tps or idle air control), maybe your MAF, or the fuel pump still. If you don't have a scan tool that can read live data or some more advanced tools you might want to bring it somewhere for a proper diagnosis and then fix what they tell you.

You don't want to start just throwing parts at it.

 

It seems to happen only when I recently drove the car, if I let it sit overnight, it usually starts up without almost stalling. If I recently drove it, let it sit for a few minutes or something, then it stalls.

If I try to unplug the MAF after it stalls, to see if it helps it not stall. It doesn't start either at all then.

What is the specific scan tool you would recommend that shows live data? Is there one I could buy that has all the stuff you want me to check?

I've got it in the shop now a second time (first time they said they couldn't find anything). We'll see what they say.

I also noticed when I first start it up, it idles at 1k rpm, from looking around at other posts on this forum, that seems kind of high? Once I drive it a bit and then stop and it let idle, it drops back down to around 600-700.

 

The way your car works is when it's cold (sitting overnight, engine cools down) it starts up in something called "open loop". This means it runs in a rich mode (more fuel added) to help with starting like in cold weather or something like that, so 1K RPM is normal. Once, your car gets to operating temperature it switches to "closed loop" mode. This is when it relies on your sensors to determine how much fuel to add/remove. This is where the RPM should be lower around 600-700.

The car has two air to fuel ratio sensors that measure the output from the combustion gases. In your intake tube the MAF reads how much air is going past it. So, if you have a vacuum leak say at the throttle body your A/F sensors will pick that up and the car will add more fuel due to the extra air.

I would look for something that does more than read codes and can read live ODB2 data. You'd want to read fuel trims, MAF, and see if the shop can get a fuel pressure rating after it's been running.

You'd want to look for a hot/warm start issue. Could be engine coolant sensor (not sure since it idles fine), vacuum leak (possibly since you have to give it gas), fuel pump overheating, faulty check valve in the fuel pump, or something like that. I'd look for something gets affected by heat.