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Camber Arms/Toes

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Old Aug 7, 2023 | 08:35 PM
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Camber Arms/Toes

What’s up guys. I haven’t been on here in a long time. Anyways i got an 03 coupe 6mt that i really want to start cleaning up. About 7 years ago i lowered it on eibach sorings and i re did the suspension with all new bushings and bilstein shocks and struts. I’m sure there is hundreds of these threads on here but anyways my rear tires are wearing so i brought it to get an alignment. They told me i need to get camber & toe correction kit to get that camber in cause i am maxed out on the stock. My question is do i just need the adjustable camber arms? Should i do camber arms and traction arms? What is the actual toe part. I know what toe means but would that fix itself with new arm? Also i know SPC is reputable i also seen Z1 motorsports they have a package that many G users use which comes with upper control arms for the front as well. If you guys have any ideas/recommendations i would appreciate it. Thanks.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2023 | 08:47 PM
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Toe is done in the rear by eccentric bolts. Arms (camber) only. No traction arms.

Front - upper control arms adjust camber. Some brands don’t add positive camber.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2023 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
Toe is done in the rear by eccentric bolts. Arms (camber) only. No traction arms.

Front - upper control arms adjust camber. Some brands don’t add positive camber.
ok thank you. Can i put oem eccentric bolts if i put SPC camber arms? They said my eccentric hardware is rusted and seized. Or should i put aftermarket bolt kit on? Thanks
 
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Old Aug 8, 2023 | 04:03 PM
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It may be cheaper to buy new aftermarket than new oem, but used you can find them very cheap.

sometimes when lowered, the OEM toe ecc bolts aren’t enough.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2023 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Urbanengineer
It may be cheaper to buy new aftermarket than new oem, but used you can find them very cheap.

sometimes when lowered, the OEM toe ecc bolts aren’t enough.
Ok got it. Yea the SPC says you have to widen the hole on the stock which i rather not touch the frame. I rather a differend brand that doesn’t require that,
 
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Old Aug 11, 2023 | 10:31 AM
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It's really easy, it's a "pill" shaped hole that you just make a little longer at the ends, they give you a little template for it. You end up removing about 3/16" of metal from the ends of the pill shape.

You can use either a dremel tool, a die grinder, or just chuck a burr bit up to a drill.

Or you could use a rat tail file and do it by hand, that would take a while though like 30 minutes, it's about 1/4" thick metal.

It's really hard to actually **** it up, you could completely screw it and remove a LOT of metal and it's still going to work fine. You're just making extra room for the bolt that goes through the eccentric washer, the washer itself is held in place with these keepers on the subframe and those don't get modified at all. Heck you could almost literally just remove ALL the metal inside those keepers and it would still function fine lol.

Also it's the rear SUBFRAME you modify, not something permanently attached to the chassis.
 
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