MOTUL 300V Racing OIL

 

Amsoil.

 

I use NAPA Gold oil filters (The larger 1356 filter). They are made by Wix so they are well built.

 

According to the feedback from Motul technical department, 300V,the racing oil, is designed to achieve ultimate performance rather than provides better protection and longer maintainence intervals. They suggest to use 8100 for daily drive or do oil change every 3000 kilometers if run with 300V. That is why I am running with 8100 now,only put 300V in my engine for hard driving during the summer.

 

Mobile 1 synth 5w-30

 

Newer cars dont need that many miles put on them for all the piston rings to seat. I went mobil 1 full-syn at 2000 miles. No problems. This is like the myth of the "break-in" period for new cars. The is no real break-in period for cars anymore. Theres a thread in here somewhere about it.

 

+1 Mobil1

 

Mobil 1 5w 30 synthetic of course and Mobil 1 oil filter

 

Amsoil is REALLY a great oil, however, it's more expensive and harder to find. I have a local dealer who sells it for $7.50 a QT. I change my oil every 3k miles, regardless of what oil I use; sometimes every 2k if I don't drive much. That said, I should probably just use a good DINO like Castrol, especially since my car is a lease. However, I've always used synthetic and have a hard time switching back. Thus, the last oil change I went back to Mobil-1 cause it's cheaper, available at a closer retailer. Honestly, w/ 3k intervals it's just not worth the premium of Amsoil, and I know I shouldn't even buy the synthetic. I really don't even work the car.

 

mobil1 since 2nd oil change.
potty pants...show us proof if you dont mind...
my dealer offers me this @ low price so i am putting this over regular.
also i heard its pretty darn good

 

It's not really "proof" in the strict sense, but check out the Used Oil Analysis section at Bobistheoilguy.com (BITOG). A great forum to go to for discussion of such issues. New engines show a lot of metal debris in early samples. There seems to be a consensus that the VQ is particularly sensitive to being fed synthetic early. I switched from Havo dino at 6k miles to German Castrol, and I've had fantastic UOAs since. Member Chinee has had some elevated iron and other wear metals in his VQ35 using M1 since early in his car's life. I'll let him speak to this if he wishes. It is, however, interesting to compare the UOA on our two engines. I'd respectfully suggest you try a UOA yourself. That'll give you concrete evidence, rather than fourm conjecture (like this...) about whether or not your early switch has caused any lingering wear issues. BTW, I also had great UOA results from M1 in my V-6 Camry (car before my G) and in my wife's Sequoia, so it's not as if it's bad stuff, quite the contrary.

 

we use Havoline Racing Revolution oli .www.racingrevolution.com
for use with high rev turbo applications.we have tested by uoa and all specs clean.

 

I use Castol Syntec and change it every 4k miles.
I used dino until second oil change.
C.

 

Check the oil analyses I've done on my VQ over the last 2 1/2 years..

https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...503#post831503

The best oil is the one that works for you and your driving style.

I've used Mobil 1 synthetic for a long time and was not very pleased with the analysis results. Got better results with Pennzoil conventional. Did a run of Mobil Clean 5000 and was not impressed. I'm trying out Mobil Clean 7500 right now, it's supposed to be a synthetic blend.

Iron and lead wear are issues for me. It's been recommended that I use an additive such as Lube Control to improve lubrication and protection. Although I am certain it will help, I do not want the results my scientific study (actually hobby) to be skewed by an additive. I want the oils to "speak for themselves.

I've not yet determined for the best oil for me.

 

I just bought 5 quarts of Castrol Syntec. Is synthetic really necessary? This is my first oil change by the way. I've never used synthetic before. Why is it a must-have?