+1..

 

Duh...
The grease monkey changing your oil at the dealership got the same educational background as the chimp at Jiffy Lube.
What hell is the difference? I much rather have the Quick Lube place do it cuz at the dealership it's the young car washer that performs the oil change.

 

Well the grease monkey at Jiffy Lube forgot to put the drain plug back into the rear differential on a Miata that I had. Needless to say, the rear end seized up on me on the highway three days later.

I've never had a problem at a dealership, but most of the time I'm a diy with oil and brakes.

 

check this out dont trust jiffy lube http://www.nbc4.tv/video/9152183/detail.html

 

My local Nissan dealer charges $46.00 for a Mobil 1 change (or just $10 labor if I supply the oil & filter). In the past, I've always changed my own oil, but the G's bottom cover is such a pain in the *** it just isn't worth the trouble.

 

Hey guys, I just wanted to ask since I'm getting ready to do my first oil change, what oil should I use? I've done a search and can't seem to find one good thread other than one stating that the dealer shoud do it.

Also, what about the drain plug gasket, where can I buy some? Thanks guys

 

Yeah, I don't trust anyone else touching my car for anything either.. especially not routine stuff like fluids.

You can buy 5-quart jugs of Mobil-1 full synthetic oil at Wal-Mart for 21 bucks and then go to Pep Boys and buy a Purolator Pure One filter for 6 bucks and do the entire change yourself. As smokedHen mentioned, it is a bit of a pain on this car to do the change yourself due to the 20 screws that you need to remove which hold on the under-engine cover(unless you have access to a vehicle lift, and can just remove the rear 4 and bend the rest of the thing down while you drain the oil). If you don't have a lift, you'll need to pick up a set of plastic Rhyno ramps that are designed for sports cars(ones that don't lift up too high or have real sharp approach angles). You can pick up a set of these ramps for about 30 bucks and they will last you forever under normal home useage situations.

As far as changing your oil early, it won't do anything bad to your car. You could change your oil every 200 miles if you wanted and the only thing that might happen to your car is that you might wear out the threads on your oil pain/drain plug or oil filter pickup threads due to removing the bolts soo much(or any of the bolts for the under-engine cover that you remove in the process).

I usually change my oil at like 3500 miles or so with full synthetic because I do a lot of back roads driving and it tends to take me a while to hit 3500 miles since I put a lot of my miles on my other vehicles more than just on the G... and it's generally a good idea to get old oil out of your car after a certain amount of time(instead of just milleage) because contaminants build up in the oil as a result of combustion and are not good for the motor as well as breaking down the oil faster just by their mere presence.

 

I HAVE EXTRA ONES THAT I JUST ORDERED. PM ME IF YOU WANT THEM...

 

OMG, I never knew this.

Alright, that's it for jiffy lube... Thanks man.

 

Everyone is concerned with the how much money it costs. Understandable, since this is something that needs to be done and needs to be done regularly. Doing it yourself is the cheapest way to go. $27 for oil and filter. $30 one time charge for ramps. That is still cheaper then what some pay.

The screws are a pain, but I just remove the rear 4 and bend it, as stated earlier. Don't be afraid to get under the hood of your G.

 

Those screws go much faster with a cordless drill... I know it sounds lazy, but a 1/4 driver attachment and a 10MM socket makes quick work of them. Then there's the added bonus of the clutch on the drill, so I don't overtighten them... I have to say that I never - not even once got my Q back from the dealer without at least one bolt missing. A road shield bolt, fan shroud bolt, something... so the only person I trust with my cars is me! That said, while the G is under warranty she'll go in for warranty work... I'll just look after them and have any missing parts replaced

I'll be doing my third oil change at 5500 miles on the G in the next day or two. Two quick dino oil changes during the break-in, and now converting to Mobil 1 for the duration. I'll be changing it at 4500 mile intervals. I just order a case of OEM filters from www.everythinginfiniti.com along with some crush washers... then all I have to do is remember to buy a jug of M1 at Wal-Mart before my next change.

Speaking of filters... is anyone else amazed at how small these things have gotten? The OEM one looks like a motorcycle filter or something! I ordered the secondary part number (15208-9E000) because it's about an inch or so longer - but this still seems way small too me. I guess the engineers know what they're doing though...

Heath

 

Has anyone tried the new Mobil 1 Extended life oil that is gaurenteed to 15,000 miles? I might have to give that a try.

 

Im using the M1 5W/30 EP now. Car's out of warrantee, so Im running it to 10K miles using the PureOne PL14610 filter. I buy them separately and bring to the dealer who charges about $18 for labor to do it. So $50 total cost every 7-8 months and they vacuum and wash the car too. So why do it yourself and get that black crap all over the place and then have to haul it somewhere for disposal? Doesn't make sense to me.

 

Well I do my own oil changes... i dont unscrew any bolts, i just pop the right side out, reach around unscrew the filter pull it out, then just drain the oil through the hole. They did design the car so you dont have to take down the engine protector. 23.00 at walmart for the extended performance syn, 5 dollars for a phram tough guard filter. As for disposal, how hard is it to haul 5 qts to your local auto zone and dump it in the tank.. also for those running long miles be sure to check your oil, I ran mine 9k last time and only 3 qts came out From talkin to others it seems like the VQ engines eat some oil.. which is common with most Variable timing motors IE VTEC engines as well.